going case inducted!!!

[mech_engineer]

I am going to use 100 octane and blendzall

All the cdi components

The small bearing is the lower rod bearing i need to do more research about the oil filled bearing before install it on the crank

 

[Theon]

Certainly looks shinier than my Puch head.
I wonder If while the crank is apart, It's worth trying to make crank stuffing discs, that fit the inside of the crank, with cut outs for the big end, as well as case stuffing discs?
From what I understand getting primary compression up is fairly important if running high combustion compression.

 

[mech_engineer]

you are correct is posible to make the the crank stuffing discs.. i think is posible to add the plates to the crank to increase torque by adding rotational mass

 

[Theon]

I thought increasing rotational mass improved high end revs, lighter crank revved up faster.
The Crank I have in the 'Phantom' is noticeably lighter than my others, although did not weigh them, but it seems to give better low down.

 

[mech_engineer]

in my mitsubishi eclipse gst i put a 7.5 pounds flywheel and doing a launch at 6.5k rpm it spin the tires and then turn off because the lack of rotational mass. it rev faster during driving but the initial torque just s??ks. force=mass*acceleration... torque= force* distance... more mass more force and more torque. with heavier cranks the engines can idle at lower rpms. the only bad thing is you need a bigger acceleration to increase the torque. so this mods can be done only in heavy modified engines.

 

[mech_engineer]

i have read a little bit about it and add weigth to the crank is good but if we add too much weight can reduce top rpm

 

[mech_engineer]

40mm, 41mm or 42mm stroke; what you think? my colleague Ing. Caban the guy how is balancing my crank he told me that he can make the modified pin to increase the stroke.

 

[Theon]

What stroke do you have already, 38 or 40mm?
I havn't looked in to this and can not give any good advice on going above 40mm stroke,
as I understand it would involve boring the big end of the rod to fit a larger bearing and there fore possibly weakening the big end?

 

[mech_engineer]

my crank is 38mm... if i measure the clerance between the cylinder deck to the piston this measure is half of the maximun increase to the stroke example 2mm this give me a increase of 4mm in stroke so a max stroke of 42mm... or you can see it like the needed offset to the center to make the maximun stroke posible for this engine... 40mm means the the pin is 1mm offset to the center this give you 1mm more at top and 1mm more at bottom.. if i am not correct please correct me! note the number here are not real numbers just for example only

 

[Theon]

Sorry but my advice is to ditch the 38mm crank and get a 40mm.
Stroking the crank usually involves using a larger big end pin and offsetting the hole in the flywheels, unless you can split the big end on the rod like most other engines, then they usually grind the pin smaller with offset.
On your motor it would require boring the big end of the rod and installing a larger diameter bearing. there isn't much meat on the big end of the rod to go boring it out another 2mm.
But let me know if there is another way.

 

[mech_engineer]

There is one but is top secret...

 

[Davezilla]

i've seen this other post where this guy added 5mm stroke to his crank by boring out the flywheels and welding the pin back in 25.mm further outboard and used the longer GT-5 rod to give piston clearance at the bottom of the stroke. http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=11141&page=6
You can see where the crank pin hole was bored out close to the bottom of this page, and more on how he balanced it etc and welded the pin in on the following pages, he's also using the Puch Athena jug and head in his build, this bike was really fast when completed... see the youtubes in his post too...

 

[mech_engineer]

These engine are like honda engines frankensteins : )

 

[Davezilla]

Yup... I've been checking out Treatland's jug kits a lot lately... The Puch Athena is definitely impressive, so is the 6 port Eurokit, and there are a few others that really impress me like the Yamaha Jog big bore kits, and the Honda dios too, but both these would need us to relocate our cylinder studs since the spacing is different.

 

[mech_engineer]

Yes every part is compatible the only thing we need to do it work on them to fit it. Equals $$$$

 

[mech_engineer]

I saw the puch in cafe racer style looks sick

 

[Davezilla]

yeah... I'd love to get my hands on a Puch Monza and mod it to go really fast... we can do a lot with these engines and bikes as long as we got the $$$, the time, and and lots of tools... I got the tools and the time, but I'm in the process of opening up an auto repair shop so I gotta really watch how much I'm spending right now as I got a certain amount in the bank and need to make sure I got enough to cover all my initial expenses until the money starts to come in etc.
Once I'm up and running tho I would like to take this hobby to the next level and make some really cool parts and accessories... like modified cases to fit these improved jugs and a few other goodies...

 

[Ron344]

I have also been looking at the puch cylinders and head to put on the HT. But I was wondering about the wristpin size and if it could be made to fit? I could problaly make the cylinder mods with no problem. I was looking at the puch 70cc jug with six ports.

 

[mech_engineer]

The cdi i need to test it!!!

 

[Theon]

That's different.
I don't see any big cap?