going case inducted!!!

it looks nice. if u shoot me dimensions of reed blocks i can tell u exactly. i believe the banshee reed to be no better than the worst reed block available but will support a 32mm carb.
 
I'm not sure how reeds can be better than another, it's all about what you're aiming for in the engine that determines the angle, material and style that you get. Of course, quality is a concern but I'd imagine any REAL scooter reed will be far better performing and near the same quality as either set of reeds designed for our engines.

By the way, this is the extension I use, it's about 8 or 9mm in diameter and will get right into the transfer ports
http://www.sears.com/universal-tool...-SPM6538057401?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
 
It's not the first case reed on the HT (arrow had them on their 11hp race bikes for some time now), but very well documented, and definitely cool to find it can be done at home. Just gotta get yourself a real pipe now, boost that primary compression, and you'll be racing with the big guns. To my knowledge, arrow has been dominating the competition at the races.

If you have a spare crank, you should see if you can create wind vanes in the crank to blow air into the transfers and create higher induction pressures. I've seen mixed reviews of turbo cranks, and I'm really curious to see if they actually work (apparently they do for poor-airflow engines, modern 2 strokes won't benefit, but older, less precisely designed engines apparently see big gains). I'd do it myself but I'm all out of usable cranks. However it should be easy to do with a drill press if you drill at an angle (the curve of the crank will naturally create a curved, tapered vane). The disadvantage is it's said to create a low pressure area at the big rod end, so you may have reliability issues because the bearings will no longer be getting as much lubrication. Best part is it theoretically becomes a supercharger, increasing and decreasing pressure with RPM's.

IF you have welding skills and knowledge of your port timings (or even heights from the deck, but has to be incredibly accurate), I have an application that can (reportedly) calculate close to the best expansion pipe if you were interested in building one.
 
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mew905 said:
It's not the first case reed on the HT
Click to expand...

His video states 1st case inducted in Puerto Rico.

Good job! I've been following your post since the beginning and was hoping that you'd finish - not like myself who has a tendency not to finish a project. LOL

Look forward to seeing more posts on your project.

Chris
AKA: BigBlue
 
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Yes well done,
I was hoping to see that rear tire light up!
I'm not far behind.
What size rear sprocket you got there?
Looks like she'll be pulling wheel stands.
 
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mew905 said:
I had a peek at my spare cylinder yesterday, looks like you can clean up the transfer angle using a drill bit (preferably in a press but a hand drill would probably do it too), then clean it up using a dremel. I prefer not to use JB as last time it melted. You need the case compression to stop the exhaust gases from melting it. Plus I'm not a fan of shrinking the already tiny transfers. I'm not sure how much you can remove just yet, havent done a test drill but I probably could today.

I have a very small dremel extension, the dremel branded one is too fat to get in there, I got one from Sears that's a small pen-like extender that can fit right into the transfer ports :)
Click to expand...

And then it hits me . . . . Lol

just chuck it upside down in the bridgeport and with a round nose bit mill out the inside edge so it angle towrd the intake probably a 6in long 3/16 rond ball will work by pecking down the inside edge
 
rogergendron1 said:
And then it hits me . . . . Lol

just chuck it upside down in the bridgeport and with a round nose bit mill out the inside edge so it angle towrd the intake probably a 6in long 3/16 rond ball will work by pecking down the inside edge
Click to expand...

Yeah, I tried using a tiny pilot hole to guide the larger one on my spare cylinder to see if it would work, and the bit just wants to wander into the transfer once it breaks the wall. I got a drill press coming on Friday so hopefully that'll help, otherwise I'll try the dremel with a round double cut bit.
 
I'd think it's more likely the magneto coil, I've never had a CDI fail on me, but I've burned out 4 coils in 5 motors, its so easy to do it's not even funny. Even if it's a little damp you're risking it. Make sure your grommet is fairly well sealed and your gasket is good.

If you have a spare CDI and/or Coil, you can always check, but it's almost always the coil in my experience, but the CDI is much easier and quicker to check.
 
rogergendron1 said:
And then it hits me . . . . Lol

just chuck it upside down in the bridgeport and with a round nose bit mill out the inside edge so it angle towrd the intake probably a 6in long 3/16 rond ball will work by pecking down the inside edge
Click to expand...

So I finally got my drill press, looks like we've got about 4.5mm to play with before we break through the walls. The thing I'm worried about is how thin can we get these walls before the heat and compression blows through them? The transfers need to be drilled at an angle too, I'm not sure of the exact angle but it's not much of one, but the transfers are tapered near the middle of the cylinder. Each attempt at drilling straight down into them resulted in breaking the wall near the end with a 7/32 bit, but a 1/16 will go the full length without breaking.

So if you have a spare cylinder or two, you could give it a shot, if you succeed, it'll produce much more power (less short circuiting, larger transfers, better scavenging).looks like if you drill at say... 5 degrees, you should be able to do the whole length without breaking through.
 
It started with the blue wire to blue wire and white wire to black wire ...a recomendation of trix forum member... the bicycle is runing well need to change the 54 tooth rear to a 36 one. It can climb every hill 130 psi now i need to go higher comp to 150psi..sorry i have been working on a drone design for the last month and do not have time left to keep the post updated
 
44 is torquey, 54 must be insane torquey, for heavy loads, but 36? I wouldn't recommend it. I run a 36 and I need to get a run at a hill and be at least 3000 RPM to make enough power to get up (about 30kph). Go to a 44, or if you still want to go faster, a 41T is available as well. I just dont think you'll have the power to run a 36T and still be happy, but I could be wrong.
 
I guess it depends on hills and rider weight, I have no hills and am little more than 60 Kg, so I love the 36t for high speed road riding.
44t is great for off road or stock motors.
But a 39t or 41t is probably ideal for most HP motors, depends on how fast you want to go.
There is something a bit silly about doing 80 KM/hr on a push bike, but it's FUN.
 
Ohh yeah, I only do 65k right now and it's a thrill. Foureasy nailed 45mph (~72km/hr) on a 41T sprocket and 24" tires. That puts him around 10,200 RPM, its insane.

White wire to black wire, you say? That sounds pretty crazy to be honest. But considering I think my coil's burnt out, may be worth a shot...
 
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yikes! any idea on the cause? Maybe better bearings would help with the added pressures? You need some links?
 
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