it runs great,very nice power and very smooth. i put royal purple oil in it, so far so good. thanks Tom.
Flex Pipe Exhaust
- Thread starter Hot Wheels
- Start date
It's for a hot water heater , It's very stiff, and the end have a bigger I.D easy to adapted to your motor,
bump
i wanted to track down were i got this idea from of useing the copper flex pipe and give it a much deserved bump
thanks hot wheels
I got 3ft length of stainless steel flex tubing 3/4 fittings on end for $20 and then for adapter to a Briggs 3 hp 1/2 pipe about $13 in adapters. I will have to take out the rubber seal gasket as it is for water heater heat only. Got forma-gasket Permatex copper goop to 700F to use for about $8 at auto parts store. I also got a few hanger brackets at the plumber supply that work well with the outer diameter of the flexible tube for $2. One more thing I got is going to make installing and removing for maintenance easier. Got these black cast 1/2 union and a short 1/2 nipple about $7. I do only want to bend the flex to shape once and leave it for fear that to many times it will leak, so this means I can hold it in place without needing to twist when coupled with the union.
The muffler is a Briggs that is the bigger low tone type with spark arrestor for about $10.
I'm just thinking the gasket material for exhaust I may by a small sheet and cut a couple layers to be about the thickness of the gasket made of regular rubber that I have to remove from the end of the flex water pipe. Then I will also add forma-gasket along with the parts I cut from the sheet.
Anyone have tried using the high temp forma-gasket? I know if I don't have anything other than the squeeze tube of the forma-gasket material, then filling the space with what seems to be an equal volume of what the washer that was there previously is what I'd do. Then I would not torque it down fully right off the bat. Otherwise it might squeeze out and not be a good gasket formed when dry.
There is even mention on a similar competitor brand that says if you want the forma-gasket of theirs to be removable (don't have to scrape it out redo if separating for service) you coat the surfaces with oil. I think I don't care for that since the adapters can stay on permanently.
? I think I have what I need ,will get photos eventually.
MT
The muffler is a Briggs that is the bigger low tone type with spark arrestor for about $10.
I'm just thinking the gasket material for exhaust I may by a small sheet and cut a couple layers to be about the thickness of the gasket made of regular rubber that I have to remove from the end of the flex water pipe. Then I will also add forma-gasket along with the parts I cut from the sheet.
Anyone have tried using the high temp forma-gasket? I know if I don't have anything other than the squeeze tube of the forma-gasket material, then filling the space with what seems to be an equal volume of what the washer that was there previously is what I'd do. Then I would not torque it down fully right off the bat. Otherwise it might squeeze out and not be a good gasket formed when dry.
There is even mention on a similar competitor brand that says if you want the forma-gasket of theirs to be removable (don't have to scrape it out redo if separating for service) you coat the surfaces with oil. I think I don't care for that since the adapters can stay on permanently.
? I think I have what I need ,will get photos eventually.
MT
It's great some of you do such great work welding and brazing and making clamps-
But maybe you live in an apartment like me-
I've been using this cut and extended with can aluminum poo poo pipe now for about two years- it finally failed me and stressed the aluminum late in the Fall-
Solution- Use TWO can widths, one wrapped around the other for twice the strength- I think this one will last much longer-same worm clamps- two on each side. Took less than a half hour to put it back together- may not look the best, but functions perfectly otherwise- NO LEAKS and LOW COST!
and I've tied the front part of the pipe up with wire in case it lets go again- probably make that a little cleaner
But maybe you live in an apartment like me-
I've been using this cut and extended with can aluminum poo poo pipe now for about two years- it finally failed me and stressed the aluminum late in the Fall-
Solution- Use TWO can widths, one wrapped around the other for twice the strength- I think this one will last much longer-same worm clamps- two on each side. Took less than a half hour to put it back together- may not look the best, but functions perfectly otherwise- NO LEAKS and LOW COST!
and I've tied the front part of the pipe up with wire in case it lets go again- probably make that a little cleaner
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the red rtv high temp sealant gasket maker will work thier is also a exhaust goop that is similar to the cositancy of jb weld that works just fine to
heres a couple pics of my creation
heres a couple pics of my creation
I went fishing on the internet and came up with this link that may be of interest to some of you. I intend to rework my exhaust setup and think that this could be a solution to getting where I want it.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WAL0/40000.oap?ck=Search_N0075_-1_-1&pt=N0075&ppt=C0022
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WAL0/40000.oap?ck=Search_N0075_-1_-1&pt=N0075&ppt=C0022
Here is a water heater pipe exhaust made of copper flex and some fitting that were such I didn't need any welding done. The washers removed as well as a sleeve that was of plastic for electrical isolation to prevent gavonic acceleration of corrosion in plumbing that I don't need. The washers are to be remade with high temp permatex 800 Deg F copper formagasket.
The wire mesh around the muffler for safety and will add something to the pipe as well.
This is my thread below:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=29678[/url]
MT
PS I have not finished it to try the muffler yet, will let you know when I do. I have been tinkering with doing a multiple jackshaft for parade events having a 47 to 1 ratio and speed range 2200 - 3500 rpm gets 3.5 to 5.5 mph. I'll have two stacked jack shafts and three belts. Then when for OHV going into woods for off roading and try to get sticker from state dmv I'll shoot for a probably 20 : 1 ratio. With 1 jackshaft I got 8.3 : 1 but that still was a bit high a ratio for the engine in any kind of course.
The wire mesh around the muffler for safety and will add something to the pipe as well.
This is my thread below:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=29678[/url]
MT
PS I have not finished it to try the muffler yet, will let you know when I do. I have been tinkering with doing a multiple jackshaft for parade events having a 47 to 1 ratio and speed range 2200 - 3500 rpm gets 3.5 to 5.5 mph. I'll have two stacked jack shafts and three belts. Then when for OHV going into woods for off roading and try to get sticker from state dmv I'll shoot for a probably 20 : 1 ratio. With 1 jackshaft I got 8.3 : 1 but that still was a bit high a ratio for the engine in any kind of course.
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I tried now over a year later the flex pipe withy Briggs spark arrestor type muffler. At idle is not loud at all. Pretty good so far at full max rpm, but yet no load and time to see how it may affect power.
I made a gasket Forma-gasket High Temp Copper in a mold I made and it was dried fully, but is very soft and malleable. The thing cannot work in my screw connection as it is too soft and mashes out of place, so I opted for some high temp gasket material. It does not have the dimpled metal on the outer surface like a head gasket though, I can’t seem to find a place to see that stuff at a reasonable price, or for that matter at all.
So the gasket does work and I need three each pieces cut to put all in the connector so it is thick enough, but when I screw it together and unscrew to take it apart the gasket gets shredded and breaks at least one of the three. The one where the coupling is spinning against the outer gasket is the one that takes the brunt of it. The other side is stationary so the inner and opposite side gasket don’t get to bad damage from pressure plus twisting.
It is cheap enough and not disassembling really for any reason, means so what throw them out if you dissemble, but I thought about making a copper gasket.
I would use two or three of these to get the thickness or whatever it takes. Then maybe just leave it with the soft copper to do the job, or in-between or on the outside or all, add some of a thin layer of the Forma-gasket High Temp Copper which could hold the gasket in one piece which would be nice. Noting that if used on the outer sides of the gasket it still even when thing may not like to twisting with pressure that the screw coupling is causing when tightening or loosening. Head gaskets are just bolted down and not twisted, but I think if I could get the metalized outer sheet high temp gasket material for a small size sheet at a good price I’d get it. I’ve see 35 dollars for a think 1/16 inch and the thicker stuff 1/8 in like 75 dollars and all I want it two donut pieces and some spare extras, not enough to make a gasket cutting business.
This other stuff that is supposed to be high temp and sort of the consistency of JB Weld I suppose that is before it is dry. If after it is dry, I would hope is can form a little to seal better or else it may wear better but still leak. What is this called and where do I buy the stuff?
MT
I made a gasket Forma-gasket High Temp Copper in a mold I made and it was dried fully, but is very soft and malleable. The thing cannot work in my screw connection as it is too soft and mashes out of place, so I opted for some high temp gasket material. It does not have the dimpled metal on the outer surface like a head gasket though, I can’t seem to find a place to see that stuff at a reasonable price, or for that matter at all.
So the gasket does work and I need three each pieces cut to put all in the connector so it is thick enough, but when I screw it together and unscrew to take it apart the gasket gets shredded and breaks at least one of the three. The one where the coupling is spinning against the outer gasket is the one that takes the brunt of it. The other side is stationary so the inner and opposite side gasket don’t get to bad damage from pressure plus twisting.
It is cheap enough and not disassembling really for any reason, means so what throw them out if you dissemble, but I thought about making a copper gasket.
I would use two or three of these to get the thickness or whatever it takes. Then maybe just leave it with the soft copper to do the job, or in-between or on the outside or all, add some of a thin layer of the Forma-gasket High Temp Copper which could hold the gasket in one piece which would be nice. Noting that if used on the outer sides of the gasket it still even when thing may not like to twisting with pressure that the screw coupling is causing when tightening or loosening. Head gaskets are just bolted down and not twisted, but I think if I could get the metalized outer sheet high temp gasket material for a small size sheet at a good price I’d get it. I’ve see 35 dollars for a think 1/16 inch and the thicker stuff 1/8 in like 75 dollars and all I want it two donut pieces and some spare extras, not enough to make a gasket cutting business.
This other stuff that is supposed to be high temp and sort of the consistency of JB Weld I suppose that is before it is dry. If after it is dry, I would hope is can form a little to seal better or else it may wear better but still leak. What is this called and where do I buy the stuff?
MT
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Its been a few months, but I bone head realized that when I had not yet installed the whole exhaust system, was was able to turn the coupler pressing the fiber gasket I cut into the flex tube end. This is wrong to do, the flex pipe end should be turned to tighten instead. The difference is that the way the end fittings are, there is not nearly any surface area that exerts a twist motion on the gasket if you do it this other way.
It is quite synonymous with high frequency electrical connectors that are gold plated. You want to twist the end that will only push the contacts together and not also twist. That way less of the gold plate and metal is lost, which then makes the connection less reliable.
As for making soft copper gaskets for exhaust that would be OK, but really not necessary. I only added 4 of these gaskets from a sheet of material I cut to get the proper thickness and it works good.
MT
It is quite synonymous with high frequency electrical connectors that are gold plated. You want to twist the end that will only push the contacts together and not also twist. That way less of the gold plate and metal is lost, which then makes the connection less reliable.
As for making soft copper gaskets for exhaust that would be OK, but really not necessary. I only added 4 of these gaskets from a sheet of material I cut to get the proper thickness and it works good.
MT
I think flex pipe is not as free flowing as solid pipe so it will restrict power at high rpm, just my .02 and solid pipe looks better, but flex is definitely easier.
nice build. Hows the flex pipe working out? any leaks, noticeable decrease in power ? any change in the sound ??
Waste of money. It’ll break, look and sound like ****. Yes I’ve tried it back in like 2013. Also this thread is from 2010... it’s good you’re searching and reading old threads.
There is a stainless flex pipe that you used to be able to buy from EZM and now I’ve seen one on Tom from Rubicon’s 79cc but the tube is too small for a 212. You’re looking for a 212 exhaust, hit up Robertson Torque Tubes
Dude thankyou for responding. I appreciate it. Saved me some money and waste of brain power trying to figure out how to hook up an exhaust to cheap flex pipe. I’ll go ahead and check out Robertson Torque Tubes
I’ve always used Liquid tight electrical conduit ..works great . If you know a commercial electrician they can usually spare a nice section.
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nice dude ! where can i purchase this electrical conduit? also, i noticed the sweet jackshaft you got, if you could check out my other post, and if you have any suggestions that would be greatly appreciated
https://motorbicycling.com/threads/...-on-vertical-mounted-212cc.65960/#post-682839
