First question for top-secret build!!!!!!!

Alright 8 holes it is. Thanks map. I took some pictures of the piston and cylinder, just trying to upload them.
Ive been painting a lot this past week, got almost all the needed fasteners. & im just gonna start putting the motor together now, be back soon fellas..wee..wee..wee..wee.
 
http://s296.photobucket.com/user/brandoncarpenter73/library/?sort=3&page=1


library


I still cant upload them to the forum, so i just made a photobucket account & all the pics are here

Im done with the cylinder, the ports are all done and chamfered & smoothed out with 600 grit sandpaper.

The current build ( NOT the "top-secret" build) is the beach cruiser, and right now im deciding how to mount it

MAP, I kinda wanna do what Bairdco did here.

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=13429

But i think i should make the mount completely solid, no???What do you think about the squared iron im holding in my photobucket pic??? ( to make a rear mount out of )
 
CarpsCustoms said:
http://s296.photobucket.com/user/brandoncarpenter73/library/?sort=3&page=1


library


I still cant upload them to the forum, so i just made a photobucket account & all the pics are here

Im done with the cylinder, the ports are all done and chamfered & smoothed out with 600 grit sandpaper.

The current build ( NOT the "top-secret" build) is the beach cruiser, and right now im deciding how to mount it

MAP, I kinda wanna do what Bairdco did here.

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=13429

But i think i should make the mount completely solid, no???What do you think about the squared iron im holding in my photobucket pic??? ( to make a rear mount out of )
Click to expand...

Using square tubing and making the mount solid and welded will be fine, doing it the way bairdco did his will also work fine and another way to do it would be to stack flat washers over the correct length bolt until the spacing needed was reached.

A good welded up mount is gonna be bullet proof of course, but several ways to get it done that I think will work just fine as long as everything is good and tight like it should be.
 
Soo the bike is now completely overhauled, steering tube bearings, crank and wheels.
Nice and shiney now tooo ahaa

Today im gonna put in the order for the 4 inch long grade 8 bolts (from Fastenal) needed for the mounting method i chose. My next uploaded pictures will be of the bike & mounting technique used...Stay tuned guys
 
Finished the planned piston mods :
-4mm windows on both sides,
-ramped all 4 sides of the crown
-drilled 8 total 3/16ths holes for some top-end weight loss.

...I need to find a gram scale & find out how much she weighs..
Click to expand...
Why would you ramp 4 sides of the crown of your piston?
 
To improve flow and lessen restriction of gasses through all 4 ports, no?

Chamfering & smoothing out jagged edges will help her breathe better
 
A slight ramp on exhaust side and slight ramping that closely matches transfer ports can add upper r0m power and rpm potential when all else is right.

No need to ramp crown of piston on intake side, no benefit will be realized and performance will likely be reduced rather than helped since all it will do at the least is reduce compression.

If the ramping on the intake side actually opens the intake port when piston is at BDC, that is for sure a bad thing and will make the engine a real dawg most likely.

Of course you'll have a better idea of what you have once you run it, but to much material removed at exhaust port will really hurt low rpm power so hopefully what you have done isnt to much.

I hope iy runs great for you, but if its hurting bad for power in lower rpms, all you will have t9 do most likely is work up another piston with less agressive ramping and youll increase low end and mid range power.

Best wishes and hope it runs great.
 
mapbike said:
A slight ramp on exhaust side and slight ramping that closely matches transfer ports can add upper r0m power and rpm potential when all else is right.

No need to ramp crown of piston on intake side, no benefit will be realized and performance will likely be reduced rather than helped since all it will do at the least is reduce compression.

If the ramping on the intake side actually opens the intake port when piston is at BDC, that is for sure a bad thing and will make the engine a real dawg most likely.

Of course you'll have a better idea of what you have once you run it, but to much material removed at exhaust port will really hurt low rpm power so hopefully what you have done isnt to much.

I hope iy runs great for you, but if its hurting bad for power in lower rpms, all you will have t9 do most likely is work up another piston with less agressive ramping and youll increase low end and mid range power.

Best wishes and hope it runs great.
Click to expand...


Yeah its easy to take too much material off. I see what you mean. Measured the ports beforehand so im hoping she does alright. Thanks again.
 
So guys, im ordering a new piston...Hopefully it comes in quickly & i'll be on the road before this month ends. Trying to finish this up
 
Okay guys, sorry for taking so long to update. I recently moved and im working 3 jobs at the moment : ) Fortunately, where im at now lets me be waay more productive. The motor is just about done, after ruining the last piston by chamfering the intake side ( lol ) i got a new one and gave the transfer sides a few degrees worth of a chamfer. As well as drilling 8 holes around the skirt in unaffected areas obviously..
The ports are solid, pretty good for my first port job, matched the last gasket last night (intake).

The max grit for the intake side was 320, and i finished off the exhaust side with 1000 grit : ) left me with a semi-mirror finish. Intake and expansion chamber are also port matched as they should be.

Only thing left is to paint the case of the motor, clean it all up REALLY thoroughly and torque it all down. Intake and expansion chamber are also port matched as they should be.

This is a poorly organized post i know, but im getting it done and had to let you guys know what's going on.. Hope everyone is having a good end of the world : p
 
Well guys, its been a couple months sorry i forgot about this post lol. The Ross build is all done and came out very solid and its fun to ride. You can find pics of the bike on my facebook just request me Brandon Carpenter and youll see the build.. The only thing i havent done is jet it, but on the 3rd notch (nt carb) she 4 strokes at low speeds and picks up really well from about 15- at least 25 27 ish. Idles nice too, the last final tweek is gonna be a better fuel line because the one i bought from ebay is leaking ( not sure why either, i put 2 hose clamps on the line). But yeah, solid little ported build, and it climbs hills waay better than my previous build due to the 40t gear instead of a 44T.

So, the game plan is to sell this Ross, then motorize my 86 schwinn beach cruiser, THEN move on to the Top Secret reed valve build (Specialized) i originally thought of years ago lol.

Thanks for reading, please help if you have input about a leaky fuel line
( btw im almost done with break in, running 25:1, planning on 40:1 next gallon)
 
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