First Post...first-timer...won't start!

F

Fletchsd80

New Member
Hey Everybody,

I've been trying to get this bike to start for a while now and I can't seem to. This is my first experience with these engines (actually any engines really). I know next to nothing about auto-mechanics, but fortunately my old roommate did- and I've been reading these forums like crazy recently...so I've learned quite a bit. In fact my eyes are bloodshot from reading so much last night!

My fuel/oil ratio is not very precise. I had about 14oz of oil (2 stroke for air cooled- Blue bottle/blue oil) That I mixed with a bit under 2 gallons of 91 octane gas (maybe a cm or two below the line in gas tank). I was aiming for about a 16:1 ratio. I think now that it may be too rich?

I have a new plug that is working (a Bosch that was recommended in another thread). It's sparking blue when sitting on head. It sparks pretty rapidly as I turn the wheel. I'm not sure how frequently it is supposed to spark.

I would like to get a new boot and wire even though it is sparking because I cut it shorter to expose more wire and connect a solid wire to the end so I could create a 'spiral' to go around the 'screw' inside the boot and attempt to get it tight. It keeps coming loose anyway when I have the spark plug out of the engine and I've actually shocked myself a couple times haha...So I know there is juice!

Initially when it wouldn't start I read here to take a soda cap amount of gas and poor it directly in the engine so I did that. That seemed to give it more of a will to want to start, but again it didn't.
I am getting a little 'cough' out of it like it wants to start.

Out of frustration yesterday I pored another ounce of gas into the engine, and now I think it may be flooded. I have no idea how to drain the engine?

My throttle broke after a few days and I don't have one at all right now. I cut the wires completely off and disconnected them from the white wire. I cut the white wire flush, bent it at the end and then wire taped around it. Black is to black, and blue to blue, and those are the only two connections. My roommate soldered them for me and like I said I am getting a spark (at least outside the engine with no compression.

Last night I took off the carb to check it out and figure out how it works by looking at it. Last night I read a thread where someone said there may be a bad batch of 80cc kits out there where the needle needs to be sanded down at the end or it won't start. This is a little worrying considering that the kit was less than perfect and came with a sprocket that didn't fit the chain and was fat and heavy- so I ordered a new one.

I set the pin clip to the second from the lowest position like recommended. It was on the 3rd(middle) before. The choke is moving fine, the float is not leaking and works. I have the 'idling adjustment screw all the way in now so there is a few millimeter opening at the bottom of the slider when at rest. Where the throttle cable enters the top of the carb is crewed in all the way down. The air filter is appears clean.

I had a half-ass made, scissor-cut to size, rubber o-ring that I covered in silicone and pushed all the way to the back of the carb tube where it attaches to the intake tube and the slits are that let in air. When I took the carb off last night that o-ring came halfway out and it didn't fit right anyway so I tossed it, and covered the 'slits' with RTV heavily and then slid it back on the intake (more impatience and frustration).

I don't even know if I should keep trying to start it with no throttle? You shouldn't need one to start it right, but I read in another thread that sometimes you have to have it in "the sweet spot" when you pop the clutch to get some engines to start?

I'm sure I left out some things, but I would really appreciate any advise on what to do next!

I read that someone HAD a spark and tried everything only to replace the CDI and fire right up!? How that works I'm not quite sure and I would prefer not to buy a new CDI if I don't have to (especially when I have spark).

I plan to get a new boot and wire for the spark plug and see if that improves anything. I would like to drain the gas from the engine if it isn't too complicated, and then make a 20:1 mix with 85 octane.

Other than that and getting a proper fitting O-ring or making a gasket for where the intake meets the carb, and getting a throttle on it...I'm out of ideas.

Thanks in advance.
 
Your oil mix is at 18 to 1 Good enough is the fuel fresh?
It does make a difference.
Where are you pouring the gas plus oil mix to try and start your engine.




Gas Oil Mixture Ratio Calculator
Do this outside.
The first thing you need to do is turn off the petcock on the fuel tank.
Next remove the bottom of the carburetor.
Turn on the petcock.
You should see gasoline running out of the carb.
If you get gas you probably have the carb slide in backwards, plugged jet.etc.
My tank had a jelly like contaminant when I first filled it.
I had no fuel flow.


My needle was not tapered and my jet was wrongly sized.



You would not believe how hard it was to start the first time.

My throttle also broke immediately .
I glue every thing with uv resistant goop.

My carb is glued on.
The roads here are so bad it has fallen off after a nasty jolt.
 
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Sounds like a pritty rich mix my friend,don't over analize the prob.if you have spark leave it alone,you need the white wire conected to the red wire off kill switch. And the black to ground on frame otherwize you have no way to stop/kill motor if it does start, other than dumping clutch. don't panic,take a deap breath,go have a beer. and most importantly STOP cutting wires. more than likly YES you will need a throttle cable in carb. they need a little wicking to run.NOT an expert just a fan.* WILLIAM "ONES FUN TWO'S A RACE" dnutdnut { I'd also advise to STOP pouring fuel in motor, YOU DON'T want gas in the bottom end this is a NO,NO}
 
I too am having a problem with my first start. It runs for about 2seconds and then dies. I have a petcock just below the tank and another on the carb. (Plenty of fuel in line.) I have no idea which way I should swing the lever on the carb, but have tried all positions. And, how do I shut carb valve too keep fuel out when the bike is just sitting?
Gonna take carb apart I guess if it still doesnt fire and check it out.

Thanks in advance
 
Thanks for all the help guys but I after adjusting the pin clip and using silicone to close up those 'slits' where the carb meets the intake, I got it running for the first time yesterday. It makes sense that it was an air problem as I had gas and spark.

The bad news is that when I went to tighten my head bolts later after oil was coming out the gasket seal, I got overzealous and set the torque wrench at 17. I ended up stripping the thread on one of the bolts- hopefully not the engine thread!

I swear the problems never end- self-created or not!
 
shaggy- take some RTV silicone and apply it very liberally to those 'slits' on the carb where it slides on the intake so that those openings are completely sealed and won't let air in. Take apart the carb and set the pin clip at the second notch closest to the sharp end of the pin. Those two things did it for me.
 
Got mine running this afternoon. WOT and half choke worked like a charm. Thanks Bike Guy Joe!. Let the Break-in begin.
 
Norman said:
top as in the fat end with the pointed end down. #2 slot from the top.
Click to expand...

Should I wait to do that until I get this head problem taken care of? It started for the first time the other day but dies going up a hill and would not idle when I engaged the clutch. It could be a carb problem, but the fact it was spitting up oil could indicate a compression/air leak. So I understand you though...By moving the clip where you suggested, the needle would sit lower inside the gold (forgot word for it). That is a good thing? I figured that would impede fuel flow more?
 
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