First Build (Western Flyer)

[Muffinking]

I just bought this old western flyer bike and I wanted to repaint it and add some additional cosmetic changes like a banana seat and different handlebars, but i could use professional opinions on how to proceed.

The bike has rust, the paint is chipping, but it isn't in horrible shape. I've got a 4'' wire brush and another head that is designed to remove paint, but I'm not sure how to get into certain areas. Parts of the paint don't even need to be striped and could possibly be painted over, but I'm just not sure which direction to move in.

Is this fender worth salvaging or is it worth it to buy a new one online? I really do want this bike to look good.

how would i remove the paint in tight spaces like these? should i even bother?

I'd like to preserver the labels and stickers, but if I'm going to be grinding the paint away, how do i protect the stickers? I've heard of people heating these up to remove them, but wouldn't that destroy the sticker?

As you can see the paint on the joints is chipping and rusted

 

[wheelbender6]

I would try steel wool before resorting to the wire brush. The wire scratches will show right through your new paint.
I wouldn't strip off the healthy paint. If it stuck to the metal for 20 years without flaking, leave it there, sand it and paint over it.
The bike must stay clean and free of oil and dust when you start to paint. The natural oil from your hand can ruin a paint job. I wipe it with alcohol before every layer of paint.
I preserved the labels when I repainted my Mongoose Zuma cruiser. I masked them and sanded/painted around them.
The labels on my 1976 Western Flyer were too far gone to preserve. Western Flyer head badges are not too difficult to find on EBay.

 

[Runningwater]

I just picked up a Western Auto Flyer too. It has Galaxy Flyer marked on the chain guard. Paints ruff on it too so I'm thinking about taking a wire wheel to it.

 

[cannonball2]

You can wire wheel it around the rough rusty areas. I often use a long strip of 60 grit sanding belt to sand in the confined areas. Leaving the old paint is ok if sound. You will have to feather(blend) the paint into the open metal areas. These then should be primed and sanded with a finer grit until the worked area(scratches) are filled. Properly done, you will never know it was worked. Sand the entire thing with a fine grit like 320. Wet sanding is preferred. If badly rusted in areas you might consider a rust neutralizer treatment first.

 

[Runningwater]

I figured out the picture end-o-things......