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Discussion in 'Motorized Cruiser Bicycles' started by GasX, Oct 28, 2011.
I like the way this bike is turning out, good job on your progress so far, .
USPS says my latest order of parts is "out for delivery". Hopefully the new engine mount is in this package and not getting drop shipped...
Very likely the wobble in the rear wheel is due to the bearings being too loose. You will need a cone nut wrench. Google it and see about adjusting the axle for wobble. It isn't a big deal fixing it, but won't get better on it's own. You don't need for a shop to do this. If it was an old Schwinn made in the US it would be 9/16". Yours is probably 15mm.
Thanks - correct diagnosis.
My LBS fixed it up for free
Got my shipment today - everything but the mount... :-(
I also went to the hardware store and got new nuts and clamps for the gas tank. That small project is going to get done tonight - not feeling very ambitious, lol...
I tried bending the one I got from bgf.it worked and I got it on there.then 5 minutes later one of the legs snapped.talk about cheap crap!plus it was crooked and didnt line up right.thats how I broke it.trying to bend it so it would line up right.in the end all i got out of it was a couple extra springs.and thats about all its good for
Not happy with my fork/drum brake linkage yet. Might just get a monark for from the pirate and do it right...
Ordered a reinforced fork from Venice Motor Bikes and installed my wide crank set. If I have time tomorrow, I'll grind down the front engine mount to fit my frame and hit the hardware store for some bots and bobs I need to connect the rear brake strap and connect the C clamp I bought the other day to the front engine mount. Then it is assembly and test ride time!
Mounted the engine today and screwed/bolted everything down. Sadly when I put on the chain I was getting a LOT of chain noise. I played with the tensioner a bit and that sorted out the noise on the sprocket side (more or less), but the engine side is noisy. I moved the engine all the way over and am only just avoidiing tire rub, but it looks like the small sprocket on the engine is just enough out of alignment with the sprocket that the chain is rubbing the inner side of the sprocket.
Is moving the wheel sprocket my only option? That'll mean I'll have to get a bent coaster arm or beg borrow a vice from a neighbor...
Finally got it all put together, oiled and gassed and fired her up. Took about 500 yards for it to have a catastophic failure...
I was zipping along and suddenly the rev count went through the roof...
This Hoot is a hoot!
I guess this is what it means when people talk about needing to weld the output freewheel sprocket?
yep.alls I can say is good luck hope you get it sorted out
I am trying to figure if the picture shows that the angle of the drive sprocket (rear wheel) and the sprocket that is by the engine/clutch (whatchmacallit) output sprocket had before the chain came off the front sprocket and also broke stuff, was the chain at a slight angle.
I can see that the engine platform has I think some side to side adjustment.
Also I know that some people, especially on DIY builds, have widened the rear fork and spaced the rear wheel more over to the left to get the chain in as straight as possible a line front to back.
My current build I have spread the rear fork and spaced it. It is under a bit of tension, so cutting and re-welding the left side of the rear fork I may have to do. I have also heard of flame heating so it won't crack the tube when bending the rear fork on the left side outward a bit.
I have wondered if tempering again by quenching in water to make it less flimsy after heating is necessary. During welding I have not heard of this except where someone, not for on motor bikes, had welded to a torsion bar and there was talk of needing to re-temper it afterwards.
Anyway hope you can get parts or have a repair done by welding whatever is necessary. Say, once you get it repaired, if you can turn engine output either manually by hand or slow throttle running with the bike on a test stand to see how it operates before under full riding load. This way you can see if it is going to not have problems and need some adjusting, I would advise doing that.
Forgot that if you can turn the rear wheel and have it turn the sproket forward on the engine, that is with the engine off (not running) and by the same token check how well the chain moves. If it tries to jump off or catch any teeth while turning.
Safely use goggles, leather apron, no loose clothing, or whatever necessary to accomplish this if you do try as I mentioned! I am going to soon be trying this week or next, I'll let you know.
I thought about you mentioning tire rub.
I guess I'm thinking short of frame modification to allow alignment of both sprokets and no chain rub on tire, could you find if anyone else had this problem. I think one way out could be having the rear sproket shimmed outward as long as it does not hit the rear fork left side. This would make it so you can have more space between the tire and the chain and also get both sprokets with the chain straight.
I did not see pictures showing exactly how the rear drive sproket looks where it attaches and how it passes through the left side the rear spokes. I guess it is a clamp on to the hub and some spacers to go between the spokes. Longer spacers if possible is what I was mentioning above, adjust shim ect.
Things progress, but slowly....
My new transmission was ordered before Thanksgiving but Dax was slow to ship so I will not have it until Friday. I got my new Monark Fork from VMB, but I have to find a welder before I can install it with my drum brake wheel. I am now thinking about getting the sportsman idler assembly since I have to get welding done anyway.
As for the chain rub, it did not actually seem to be an issue for the 2 minutes I was up and running.
I swear, it's always two steps forward and at least one back.
I ran around running errands on Friday and managed to get a piece of steel welded to one of the shoulder bolts of my new Monark Fork. This will allow me to mount it to my Worksman Drum Brake wheel. Sadly, the welder was not the best craftsman and he managed to melt the Teflon out of the locking bolt (which he had used to anchor the bolt for the weld and melted some of the metal on the head of the bolt. Fortunately, nothing that affects function and a trip to the hardware store and I am back in business.
I get home and decided to dry mount the fork to see if I was all set to mount the fork and the wheel for real. My first realization was the supplied headset was not right for my frame as the set races were (I think 1 1/" to my 1"). This was easily deal as the rest is interchangeable and I reused my old races. All set, right? **** no - the steerer tube is way too long. That's ok, because I can tighten down the threaded race and cut the top off with my cutoff wheel. NOT - the threaded portion of the steerer tube is not long enough to thread the threaded race far enough down. So, it's new fork or new frame time... BAH HUMBUG!
Today my new trransmission arrived, so I am goint to mount the old fork with my ghetto brake arm clamp, swap out the tranny and God willing drive around my cul de sac in the dark a few times...
It Lives again!
So, all is well now except the drum brake is secured in a less than stellar manner and the front fork is not the springer I sprung for...
The transmission swap took about 5 minutes and that was only because I took my time. 4 Bolts, some locktite and done. Retensioned the chain and rode around my cul de sac in the dark a few times. A real maiden voyage will be made tomorrow!
Finally getting to the point where I feel comfortable riding about. I got the Monark fork installed finally today - getting it to play nice with the drum brake was a *****. A little more tweaking of the drive train to eliminatd the chian slap on the rear wheel and I'll break it down and paint the frame.
Still working on a gas tank solution I like as the stock tank rubs me the wrong way. Currently planning on putting a goped tank on the handlebars...
Today I removed the "lawnmower cowling" from the engine. Looked 1000X better but I needed 3 spacers so the pull start wouldn't rattle about. Started it up, removed the pull start and rode up to the hardware store. 3 nuts for $0.33 each and I was out the door. I fixed her back up in the parking lot and rode home.
On th way home there was a long downsloping straight and I was WOT when a car pulled up next to me and the guy flashed 3 fingers at me then 5 and then the thumbs up before zooming away. 35mph - nice!
here's some pics of the engine without the cowling. The third pic shows th nut I used for a spacer...