Felt Twin, Chain clearance problem.

[smemo666]

HI there,
I build a Felt twin using a 4 strokes HS with the 4G grubee trany. I upgraded the back hub to the Freewheel Sprocket & HD Axle Kit w/Brake

engine is working well.
When I installed the trany and the chain I found that I have no clearance and my chain is running touching the tire.
I tried to use the chain tensioner to fix the problem but the chain keeps on going out of the tensioner.

I already pouched the engine as far left as I could and nothing.
I pushed the tire out of alignment to see if I have clearance and nothing happened.

Is there any way to fix the problem without having to change the tire for a smaller one?
Thanks for your help.

 

[The_Aleman]

With the rear wheel you're using, your options are very limited. Even if you notched your engine mount so the engine can slide farther left, it may put your chain out of alignment. Going to a 1.95 rear tire should solve the problem.

Also, you may need to tweak your idler bracket. The chainstay and chain angle are usually different, so tweaking the idler bracket so chain runs straight on the idler wheel will help a lot.

 

[smemo666]

Hi The Aleman,
Thanks for the answer. I really want to keep my big rick tires!!! and I was thinking in using a EZM instead of the 4G trany. I saw pics and seems that the EZM has the sprocket not that far into the frame!
I don't really know, I'm only assuming on it.
Does anybody knows if the sprocket for the EZM goes lest deep than the sprocket for the 4G?

English is not my first language and sometimes I can't explain myself correctly, please let me know if my questions where clear and understandable.
Thanks.

 

[The_Aleman]

Well, my brother has the EZM Q-matic and runs Schwalbe Fat Frank tires, has plenty of tire clearance.
But he uses a Manic Mechanic sprocket adapter and 56T sprocket. It has side-side adjustment.
I have a 4G, and clearance for 3.5" tires. But I have SBP shift kit and a geared hub.

So with what you have, you can notch the engine mount slot so engine slides over, you can inspect the 4G output shaft and possibly modify it,
or you can start replacing stuff.

I'd start with that rear wheel, get a Worksman and sprocket adapter instead.
You can get clearance that way and you would also have a much better wheel.

You should be able to fix your problem without spending money, tho. You must get creative!

 

[Les Yee]

I have the same issue. I'm transferring my Grubbee (the one from Jai Lee Nan Tong--or something like that) to a Beach cruiser w/ 24" rear with 3" Kenda Flame. I have slid the sprocket over by putting a double rag-thingy and flipped the sprocket over. It clears the tire but 2 problems:

1). I can't get the brake arm to fit even with bending and pounding on a vice

2). I haven't put it on the drive sprocket attached to the motor yet, but I suspect alignment problems.

I'm on the brink of getting an adaptor, but not sure if it will resolve my issues. I have a Shimano CB 110E btw.

Sorry I'm such a newbie; I'm sure I've misnamed some of the components. So bear with me. Any insights with 3" tires appreciated.

Thx

 

[Les Yee]

Hi Aleman,

To your above comment, how do you adjust the idler bracket and idler wheel for alignment? Is the idler wheel what I called the "drive sprocket" (what the chain attaches to the engine)?

I may be able to work around the brake arm--any suggestions there, too?

thx,

Les

 

[The_Aleman]

You have to put a slight twist in the idler bracket itself. The idler assembly is also called a "tensioner" by some.
The aim is to get the chain running straight on the idler wheel. A couple of adjustable wrenches will do it.

I can't help you with the brake arm. A new sprocket adapter may solve your problem, but I cannot be certain.

 

[Professor_Fate]

If you have a wheel truing stand you can try to dish the wheel a little. That might give you that needed 1/4" or so. I built an EZM with MM sprocket
and still had to dish the wheel to clear the tire.

Prof Fate

 

[Les Yee]

Thanks, Professor. I've managed to clear the 3" rear tire on the 24" wheel with the 415 chain. First I used a double rag joint between sprocket and spokes. But then I decided to go with the Pirate custom adaptor and 36 sprocket.

I'm most concerned with the alignment to the drive sprocket and the chain falling off the tensioner. I've been looking at off set mounts, but they're all more expensive the the engine itself!!! Does anyone know if offset mount is the only way to do this? Is the drive sprocket adjustable at all without compromising anything?

And BTW, Professor, pardon my ignorance but what is "dishing" a wheel mean? Would that help me with the front wheel to get clearance to put a disc brake on it (yet another mod I need for safety)?

Thanks all, I'm really looking forward to getting it altogether.

Les

 

[Les Yee]

Hey all,

Concerning the offset mounts, the Amptbike ones forum threads referred to all seemed to be from 2009. When I go to their website currently it seems they've switched almost entirely to the e-bike market. I can't seem to find their mounts. I've seen the Ridleys, quite impressive, but I think $199 and another without specs/pics for $130. I suppose if smaller tire is the best way, given cost, then I'll resign myself. But I really like the Kenda 3" Kustom Kruiser Flames that coordinates with the thinner 26" ones on the front wheel.

Still looking for options, but time-wise I gotta remember I still have a job and a family last time I checked!

Thanks for all the help so far.

 

[dBoddah]

has anybody done a flying horse on a felt MP? this is my first build and i'm wondering if the chain will clear those 2.125 quick bricks. any experience based tips or motor would be greatly appreciated by this noob

 

[crassius]

I have no knowledge about a felt, but when clearing really fat tires, I often dish the wheel so the tire moves away from the chain, then space the axle back to center the tire on the frame. Note that this can sometimes leave you with a clearance problem between chain & frame to deal with, so you have to split the difference.