Fat Bike/ Friction set up / Ideas?

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by BigPineJV, Mar 2, 2014.

  1. BigPineJV

    BigPineJV New Member

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    Here are a few more pictures - I hope they are what you need! if not I can take more... what kind of drive are you thinking? Chain - Friction ?
    Cant Thank You enough!!!
     

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  2. BigPineJV

    BigPineJV New Member

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    Paul THATS IT!!! -- THATS EXACTLY WHAT I AM TRYING TO ACCOMPLISH! KILLER BIKE MAN!!! I LOVE THAT RIDE -- I REALLY WENT WITH THE FAT BIKE BECAUSE OF THE RIDE - PILLOWIE SOFT - (I have some neck issues and need a smooth ride) Shock absorbing doesn't really do it for me.. I've had springer front ends & shock seat posts nothing rides like those big tires! Back in the day I used to do 35 mi a day with 10lb ankle weights LOL -- Got hurt and that all toned me way down -- sure miss the rides! miss a lot of stuff I used to do...flg.
     
  3. a_dam

    a_dam New Member

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    It doesn't really make sense to say the tire is "too wide" for a factory-made friction drive. Staton (and others) typically have a "channel", a 3-sided box where the drive roller is supported with bearings at both ends. So a wider tire would just need a wider channel and a wider (longer) drive roller. Of course, if you don't plan on doing mods yourself, you are stuck with what the manufacturers supply.

    It's a shame, though. A fat bike would be ideal for a friction drive. And don't believe that friction drives eat up tires. Well, they do if you use a very rough roller and especially if the roller pressure is not right. But if you intend to do mostly fair-weather riding on the streets, one of those fat tires would probably do a thousand miles with a FD.
     
    #23 a_dam, Mar 6, 2014
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2014
  4. BigPineJV

    BigPineJV New Member

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    EXACTLY !!! The wide tire lends it self perfectly to the friction drive - I have always been slightly ahead of the curve lol This makes it tough -- ya just a wider channel and extended drive shaft (well the mounting brackets would have to be a bit wider for the wider channel lol) wont be long till someone realizes and makes it happen (wish I could find them now) / just hope its in my lifetime lol -- Looking into other drive options now with others on this thread... this forum ROCKS.flg.
     
  5. phatcruiser

    phatcruiser New Member

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    Staton inc sells an chain drive kit that mounts at the rear axle. That may work for you.
     
  6. BigPineJV

    BigPineJV New Member

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    Thanks but the balance issue is what I'm not sure I could live with..
     
  7. BigPineJV

    BigPineJV New Member

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    That's one sweet ride!!!!!!!
     
  8. phatcruiser

    phatcruiser New Member

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    What concerns you about the balance?
     
  9. Wickedest1

    Wickedest1 Member

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    Im gonna make your day

    You CAN DEFINITELY do chain drive...rag joint or hub adapter...only prob u may have is you may need to offset the motor a bit if you go in frame...

    Look at maniac57's post in the mounting section...he just rear rack mounted a kit motor...

    And i noticed in a pic that there is a tapped screw right below the seat post clamp on the nonsprocket side...you may be able to use that to your advantage if you go fd

    Good luck
     
  10. BigPineJV

    BigPineJV New Member

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    Thanks for the look at 57's its wonderful BUT WAY BEYOND MY ABILITY LOL!!! At present I am working with Golden Eagle and considering the belt drive :) if they figure I have the clearances -- the clearance on the tire is the big deal - may have to off set something to clear that big tire ;)
     
  11. Wickedest1

    Wickedest1 Member

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    nothing is beyond your abilities...just because you don't think you can doesn't mean you cant...

    welcome to the world of motor bikes...aka grasping new abilities and perfecting them

    if you don't start now whats to stop you from giving up when something breaks...

    if you diy you know all the components and what or where a failure occurs and how to fix it so it doesn't do it again...

    even these bolt on chinakits need a bit of ingenuity to properly ride/install them

    take a trip to home depot, buy a drill, some good metal bits, safety goggles nuts and bolt and washers, some angle iron and go home and drill and cut and bolt together what you imagine

    or buy a bolt on kit and have to do this anyways
     
  12. BigPineJV

    BigPineJV New Member

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    If I were home and had my shop and knew exactly where to get stuff I may attempt it! But here in the Keys it can be a challenge to find anything! I wont be home till June and then there is the factor of TIME -- I want to Ride right now not tinker LOL Thanks for the inspiration though
     
  13. Albula vulpes

    Albula vulpes New Member

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    The only way I would go with the golden eagle kit is if I bought their extra rear rim they sell with enlarged spokes to handle the load of the engine(and rider if you are heavy set) I've read too many people have gotten the kit bolted it on to their standard rim and broken spokes. Mounting a 4 inch tire to their enlarged spoked rear rim does not seem like option.

    Patience is a virtrue, keep plugging away, something will work out.


    By the way have you heard any fishing reports of any permit making there way up on the flats down in the Florida Keys yet? Thanks
     
  14. maniac57

    maniac57 Old, Fat, and still faster than you

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    I'm looking at your bike BigPine, and I see no reason a rack mount chain drive wouldn't work on your bike. Something like my build but with the engine style in Pauls build would get you going with minimum fab work. Your rear wheel looks perfect for a ragjoint. Don't let anyone tell you ragjoints are unreliable...they just need to be installed properly. I have never had a single failure or issue with the sprocket on any of my 20-25 builds to date.
    If you have the funds, a Staton or ThatsDax rack mount should bolt right on with minimal mods. Several engine choices available.
     
  15. BigPineJV

    BigPineJV New Member

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    nothing on the permit yet -- I did get a 50 pounder 4 years ago ;)
     
  16. BigPineJV

    BigPineJV New Member

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    newbie at this Ragjoint?
     
  17. Albula vulpes

    Albula vulpes New Member

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    Ragjoints were introduced with the china/HT kits. They consist of 2 rubberized/fabric circles that compress your spokes with bolts in between the spokes making a sprocket stick to the other side of rim opposite of your cassette. If you do decide to go this route make sure you use LOCKNUTS instead of the supplied regular nuts.
     
  18. maniac57

    maniac57 Old, Fat, and still faster than you

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    Ragjoint is the stock chinese kit way of mounting a sprocket to your wheel hub. It consists of two rubber washers that sandwich the spokes with metal backing plates for strength. They work quite well and are MUCH cheaper than any sprocket adapter I'm aware of...
    [​IMG]
     
  19. BigPineJV

    BigPineJV New Member

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    I went to both Stanton & Dax -- couldn't find anything at dax that resembled Paul's set up -- Stanton site I came up with Honda GX35 INSIDE DRIVE Gear Box 35 cc 1.60 Four Cycle kit. Am I on the right track?
    what would be your unit of choice -- Funds are not a problem, but time is - I don't want to spend a month chasing parts, pieces or fabing...
     
  20. Albula vulpes

    Albula vulpes New Member

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    I own the Honda GX35 engine and it is a great, quiet, reliable engine. I have heard though that one person that bought the staton/GX35 combo could hear the gearbox over the engine.

    Paul's setup looks like a Thatsdax engine, hooked up to a thatsdax 5:1 pocket bike tranny jackshafted to the other side and using a sprocket adapter.(If you are going to go this route, use a sprocket adapter and not a rag joint.)
     

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