Falcon GTS Build

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CoastalCruiser

New Member
Apr 28, 2010
338
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Spaced Coast
OK Let the build begin!!

This afternoon I installed my 17 tooth right side sprocket and my 44 tooth Left Side Sprocket! I still need to check for concentricity and runout as well as add the lock washers and Lock-Tite but the dust cap and coaster break arm are done and all bolts are seated.
 

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CoastalCruiser

New Member
Apr 28, 2010
338
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Spaced Coast
After a more in-depth test fit i found less than optimal clearance for my carb so I just ordered an offset intake from Spooky Tooth along with some (hopefully un-needed) gaskets! I hope this will solve my problem.
 

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CoastalCruiser

New Member
Apr 28, 2010
338
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Spaced Coast
Hi All, I've made some progress and I have some questions. After digging around in the kit box I came up with the long mount studs and after setting them in noticed that the original rear studs are perfect for the front. So now the motor is permanently mounted. I then flipped the head around and finger torqued the head bolts (one finger on a 3/8" ratchet). My offset manifold came in today so I put in on after I trued the mounting surface, reamed out the opening (ported) and matched the gasket to the ream job. Now I had room for the throttle cable but the airbox wouldn't go on. After some head scratching I got my trusty utility knife and started carving! I also mounted the clutch lever and cable as well as the throttle assembly. Cheesy Buck Rogers grips and all.

1) Is my clutch actuator supposed to be in the position shown in the scan? Should I repostion it? There's no slack in the end of my cable and when I pull the lever the motor sprocket doesn't freewheel; at least by hand.

2) My throttle assembly doesn't rotate smoothly or spring back to closed (I have to manually rotate it closed). Where can I get some of those nicer rubber and chrome grips I've seen on other bikes?

3) I put the sprocket mounting bolts through the small trianlge where the spokes come out of the hub. On Norms sprocket swap thread I noticed he put the bolts into the LARGE opening between the spokes. It seems to me that the way i did it results in more strength and less likelyhood of movement. Should I change it to the other way?
 

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Last edited:
Sep 20, 2008
1,668
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0
Clearwater, FL
web.tampabay.rr.com
CoastalCruiser,

1) Looking straight down on your current set-up...we can say that the clutch arm, (the part that the cable attaches too), is in the "3" o-clock position. Once you have finished your build, and get everything dialed in, the arm will be in the "2" o-clock position.

From new; it is rare that you can "freewheel" the engine sprocket with your fingers. The clutch friction material is a little sticky. Months may have passed from the time the engine was assembled until it's first use.

Get the bike put together. Have a helper pull the clutch lever all the way...don't rely on the clutch lock initially...you can fine adjust your clutch cable later to make the lock effective. With clutch lever pulled, (clutch disengaged), lean the bike over on the kick stand so that the rear wheel is off the ground. Spin the rear wheel by hand.

At this point you will be checking for a number of things. Does the rear wheel spin freely, or can you feel the engine compression while turning the wheel. If you feel a heavy drag, or the engine is turning over; adjust the clutch cable a little tighter and try again.

If after the cable has been adjusted, you still feel the engine turning over when spinning the rear wheel by hand; more than likely the pressure plate is stuck to the friction material. Simply remove the clutch cover...right hand side if you were sitting on the bike. Have said helper pull the clutch lever and use a flat blade screwdriver to pop the pressure plate loose.

Once the clutch is operational, it is time to check the final drive for problems. The #1 Noob mistake is to build the bike and immediately go for the test flight. You need to check the concentricity and alignment of your rear sprocket BEFORE going for a ride. You may have eye-balled that sprocket 100 times; but things are going to be different once the chain is on. Same procedure...lean the bike over on the kick stand, have a helper hold the clutch in, and spin the rear wheel. Hopefully by now the rear wheel spins freely and any clutch problems were resolved. Spin the rear wheel slowly and look for any abnormalities. The chain should not become tight at any point during a full 360 degree rotation of the rear wheel. If it does...the sprocket is not concentric enough with the rear wheel. A little bit of variance is O.K. Just be sure that the variance is in the direction of loose and a little bit looser. 1/2" topside slack on the tight run, and 3/4" slack on the loose run.

This is how Noobs plow the chain tensioner into the spokes within the first 15 seconds of riding. With bad luck on thier side...there is a 50/50 chance of getting it right...they adjust the chain too tight in the slack run of an out-of-concentric sprocket...when the run comes up on the tight side, it's banjo string tight and the tensioner rotates about the chainstay and into the wheel.

2) Disassemble the throttle assembly. Hold the grip in your right hand...the lower 1/2 shell in your left. Mate the two pieces together, in your hands, as though they were on the handle bars...same orientation. You will notice that there is an imperfection in the molded plastic, (the lower half shell), that prevents the throttle handle from fully returning, smoothly. The plastic portion that the cable attaches too is interfering with the half shell. Use an xacto knife, box cutter, what ever to clear away the material from the lower half shell so that the throttle rotates to the idle postion smoothly.

3) There is nothing wrong with the placement of your rag joint assembly.

Jim
 
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silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
CoastalCruiser,

1) Looking straight down on your current set-up...we can say that the clutch arm, (the part that the cable attaches too), is in the "3" o-clock position. Once you have finished your build and get everything dialed in, the arm will be in the "2" o-clock position.

From new; it is rare that you can "freewheel" the engine sprocket with your fingers. The clutch friction material is a little sticky. Months may have passed from the time the engine was assembled until it's first use.

Get the bike put together. Have a helper pull the clutch lever all the way...don't rely on the clutch lock initially...you can fine adjust your clutch cable later to make the lock effective. With clutch lever pulled, (clutch disengaged), lean the bike over on the kick stand so that the rear wheel is off the ground. Spin the rear wheel by hand.

At this point you will be checking for a number of things. Does the rear wheel spin freely, or can you feel the engine compression while turning the wheel. If you feel a heavy drag, or the engine is turning over; adjust the clutch cable a little tighter and try again.

If after the cable has been adjusted, you still feel the engine turning over when spinning the rear wheel by hand; more than likely the pressure plate is stuck to the friction material. Simply remove the clutch cover...right hand side if you were sitting on the bike. Have said helper pull the clutch lever and use a flat blade screwdriver to pop the pressure plate loose.

Once the clutch is operational, it is time to check the final drive for problems. The #1 Noob mistake is to build the bike and immediately go for the test flight. You need to check the concentricity and alignment of your rear sprocket BEFORE going for a ride. You may have eye-balled that sprocket 100 times; but things are going to be different once the chain is on. Same procedure...lean the bike over on the kick stand, have a helper hold the clutch in, and spin the rear wheel. Hopefully by now the rear wheel spins freely and any clutch problems were resolved. Spin the rear wheel slowly and look for any abnormalities. The chain should not become tight at any point during a full 360 degree rotation of the rear wheel. If it does...the sprocket is not concentric enough with the rear wheel. A little bit of variance is O.K. Just be sure that the variance is in the direction of loose and a little bit looser. 1/2" topside slack on the tight run, and 3/4" slack on the loose run.

This is how Noobs plow the chain tensioner into the spokes within the first 15 seconds of riding. With bad luck on thier side...there is a 50/50 chance of getting it right...they adjust the chain too tight in the slack run of an out-of-concentric sprocket...when the run comes up on the tight side, it's banjo string tight and the tensioner rotates about the chainstay and into the wheel.

2) Disassemble the throttle assembly. Hold the grip in your right hand...the lower 1/2 shell in your left. Mate the two pieces together, in your hands, as though they were on the handle bars...same orientation. You will notice that there is an imperfection in the molded plastic, (the lower half shell), that prevents the throttle handle from fully returning, smoothly. The plastic portion that the cable attaches too is interfering with the half shell. Use an xacto knife, box cutter, what ever to clear away the material from the lower half shell so that the throttle rotates to the idle postion smoothly.

3) There is nothing wrong with the placement of your rag joint assembly.

Jim
Jim,
You stated that so well and clearly it should be a sticky (I believe that's what they call the keepers. Sage advice. I copied and pasted it into a file. A+
SB
 

joker

New Member
Oct 6, 2009
78
2
0
clearwater
Hey coastal
nice ride, where do you live in florida, just finishing up my marcagi puma build, i live in clearwater fl
 

Whizzerd

Member
Nov 20, 2009
114
21
18
Muncie,IN
Hi CoastalCruiser, just now tuned back in. I apologize for the confusion caused a while back. The BMP is the BikeMotorParts Friction Drive unit and the Mitsi clone is a Chinese copy of the Mitsubishi 49 cc 2 cycle engine originally used in commercial weedeaters and like equipment. My main point was and is that the Falcon GTS is an attractive, nice riding bicycle that fits adult size riders. Best wishes for your build.
 

momentummotorgroup

New Member
Apr 10, 2009
198
0
0
grand rapids, michigan
The 2 Stroke elimination has been pushed by vendors since they started, and usually starts hmmmm.. around about now when sales start to taper off.. As far as them being illegal via the EPA, are they going to go door to door and fine everyone for having 2 stroke weed whackers or chainsaws? I remember the guy who I bought from 2 years ago who jacked the price on the motor because in 2008 "all 2 strokes were gonna be gone and this was the last one in stock"..

As far as your Micargi goes, the trick would be filling the holes in the frame that they put in internally to stop people from doing what you are proposing. Mine had a hole inside the front handlebar post and the seat post as well. I actually mounted my engine on my falcon by drilling in high strength steel eyehooks and JB welding them solid into the frame. 2 years later, still holding up like day 1. Also, I just reamed the hub out more, but have since found it's equally sufficient (if not easier) to simply trim the dust cap on the coaster brake so it'll all fit nice and snug.
 

momentummotorgroup

New Member
Apr 10, 2009
198
0
0
grand rapids, michigan
Coastal Cruiser. Saw your message here to me that apparently you deleted:

CoastalCruiser has just replied to a thread you have subscribed to entitled - Falcon GTS Build - in the Motorized Cruiser Bicycles forum of Motorized Bicycle Engine Kit Forum.

This thread is located at:
Falcon GTS Build - Page 3 - Motorized Bicycle Engine Kit Forum

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Thank you for your prompt response to a 2 month old post.
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Motorized Bicycle Engine Kit Forum




Show me where the heck you see when the post was actually posted so I don't inadvertently TRY TO HELP YOU next time around.

Pretty rude, dude.
 

CoastalCruiser

New Member
Apr 28, 2010
338
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Spaced Coast
You can please some of the people some of the time but you can't squeeze water out of a rock. At the first post of any thread (on page one generally) you will find the creation date. Also, please find a sense of humor somewhere. Yours seems to have been stolen.
 

CoastalCruiser

New Member
Apr 28, 2010
338
0
0
Spaced Coast
I just ordered and am awaiting delivery of an uprgraded petcock and fuel filter from SBP. Those guys are really on the stick and send things right out quick! I should have my fuel system installed by the end of the week.
 

CoastalCruiser

New Member
Apr 28, 2010
338
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0
Spaced Coast
Update as follows; Build has gone stagnant due to major garage remodelling and lack of proper documentation. Still in the works but on back burner. If anyone is interested in a purchase of the project in it's incomplete form, please PM or e-mail me.
 
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Tarebear

New Member
Apr 13, 2011
3
0
0
ny
Hey i love your falcon build and I am going to attempt one myself, but one question will the stock motor mounts work on the falcon frame or would i have to file it down a bit? Thanks!
 

CoastalCruiser

New Member
Apr 28, 2010
338
0
0
Spaced Coast
Hey Tarebear,

I've been out of the loop for some time now. The answer is yes you will have to file out some material on the rear motor mount to the seat tube. Scroll up some to see the picture comparing the original mount to the reamed out one. I used a selection of half round and flat files to accomplish it in less than an hour.