that is not good. pull the head to see if your barrel is gouged or scratched. if so your fuel leaned out for some reason. if so buy a piston, rings and barrel. before reassembly replace studs with quality hardware including washers and nuts.
ok your piston is stuck right? remove head--lift barrel as far as possible--if you can get to piston pin, pull retainer clip and drive out pin--if not visible then place some wood between barrel and block, then tap piston.
I had adjusted the chain tensioner before I started off. The day before
I refueled and used Lucas synthetic 2-stroke mix. I mixed it 30:1
because it was my second gallon of fuel. I got about half way home from
work and the motor stopped. I try to start it back but when I let off
the clutch the back wheel would lock up. I have since taken the top end
apart. The ring was broken and wedged in between the piston and the
cylinder wall. They are both trashed. So now I'm looking for a new
cylinder, piston and rings. Any advice as where I can get the best price
for these parts? After looking at buying all the parts separately it is
almost more cost effective to just buy a whole new kit. That way I will
have plenty of spare parts. I really enjoy riding the bike when it is
working properly, and as an added benefit I have learned a lot about
now that you know its a broken ring. please tell us if your piston has positioning pins to keep the rings from spinning. if so did a pin become dislodged. i have a powerking 80 and it does not have pins. mitch
Yes, the piston does have pins; and no the pin did not become dislodged. The reason why is that I had accidentally broke off a piece of the ring that was so small and reinstalled into the jug. Like I said previously, I'm not a mechanic and this is my first engine. I didnt realize that it would make that big of a difference, but now I know! Oh, and I ordered a Powerking 80 last night. How does it work for you? Any tips? Thanks! Mke.
hi ray; that is how most of us learn what not to do. my motor is doing quite well. before install i replaced all hardware, useing allthread and dremel to cut the allthread, port the exhaust, expand hole in chain ring and shorten new #41 chain. what a tool. my motor only needs a few tickles and no choke to start. so far so good. happy motoring. mitch
Bummer. Did you use regular 2 stroke oil for break in? If not theres a good chance as to why it went south on you. The cylinder wall & rings needs the oil to break in properly. Syn. oil is so slick that the rings will not seat and will lock. At a high rpm the piston will tilt enough to gouge the wall & it's over in nano seconds. Fosil oil first, Then syn oil.
syn oil or dino oil will not cause the piston to rock over and gouge the cylinder wall excessive clearance will cause that and no type of oil can stop excessive clearance problems only a properly fitted piston with the proper end gap on the rings.
I happen to like syn oil over dino oil. syn oil will out perform the dino oil hands down and syn oil IS used for break in oil on a bunch of engines.
a while back there was a bs story that syn oil is so slick that it would cause the needle bearing in a Harley to skid which is pure bs. all oil is designed to lube, carry away heat, and stop corrosion syn does all of that better than dino oils. syn oils don't break down with heat like dino oils will.
I'm not wanting to start an oil war just telling a few things that I've learned about oils from working in the oil patch and working on engines and compressors and attending the schools on same I'm still no expert.