Engine wont mount!!!!

[Colin52]

So this is my first beach cruiser build, and ive already had so many problems, the brake arm was a pain, i had to grind it thinner for it to fit, the chain rubs the tire, and the motor wont mount because of the position of the fixed gear. Not really sure what to do about the motor not mounting, and advice would help alot!!! Ive already started building a contraption but it isnt working out.

 

[Jeckler]

Did your kit come with two long mounts, the alloy "extenders"? Maybe use that and drop the motor in the frame.
I used a Simpson Strong-Tie from Home Depot and bent it over on mine.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100375...d=10053&N=5yc1vZ1xgs&R=100375162#.Ud7Vt20wv5N

 

[Colin52]

Wow thanks so much! I'll definitely give it a try!!

 

[CTripps]

I was going to use the Simpson Strong-Tie trick, even picked up a couple some time back for this use, but ended up going with longer mounting studs and using 'kit' spacer blocks. I cleaned up the edges of the one I cut, put a bit of a bevel on all the edges of the uncut one, put JB Weld everywhere the two blocks meet, and used JB again to smooth out the outside. Put them on the engine studs and tightened them together for a little while before mounting the motor.
It seems to work, and I like the way it looks.

 

[Colin52]

That looks much easier. Where did you get the spacer blocks?

 

[truckd]

You could also use the extra mounts in the rear opposite of CT's method works good either way ? that is yer best bet, you could also get 2 small shef brackets and mount them in between the front mounts for the CDI and cover the hole up real nice

 

[toecutter619]

On my Cranbrook I bought an extra spacer from Piston Bikes to use on the intake side of the motor and bought longer bolts to replace the cheap studs that come with the engine.

 

[Jim C]

I have built 3 of the 2 stroke bikes and one 4 stroke bike, 2 Schwinn 1 Huffy and the Onyx. All of them required that I fabricate some kind of a motor mount or modify the OEM mount. My 4 stoke required a sub plate to be fabricated to attach to the motor then attach the plate to the motor mount. It is all part of the fun.

 

[CTripps]

The spacer blocks are kit 'standard' but you should be able to either order a pair or make your own, all you need is a block of material you can drill holes for the mounting studs in. They can be added front or back (or both) to get the position you want. I have mine in front because my expansion chamber needs the space to clear the front fender.

 

[maurtis]

I had a similar problem when swapping frames from a Cranbrook to a 1988 Schwinn. To make my new front mount I used the flat mounting plate that came with the kit and a piece of old seatpost. I cut the seatpost section to roughly the length I needed and then used a dremel to shape the curve on the frame tube side.

When I got a good press fit, I took it to a local muffler shop who welded it together for $20. Their welds were ugly, but cheap and strong (and cleaned up nicely). If you have a welder or know someone who does, it is a nice zero cost solution. Otherwise, still pretty cheap and worry free.