Engine Lacking performance after being in cold

Mopedamauter79 said:
I had a batch already made in a jerry can with a 20:1 mix I believe. I can bring the mix to 16:1 and better oil the oil I had sitting around for a good year.

Oh and I got some Carb cleaner and I sprayed the inside of the carb with it. Not sure how else to clean it.
Click to expand...


Who needs to lay off the weed?;)

I meant richen your fuel to air mixture...move the clip down a notch and try it.

Going to 16:1 will lean the fuel to air mixture. more oil=less gas=leaner mixture.

Don't bogart that joint my friend.
 
Last edited:
jasonh said:
Did you just look for leaks, or did you spray carb cleaner in various spots while it was running to check?
Click to expand...

It doesn't idle. If it's not moving then it's not running. I'm not about to spray carb cleaner while I'm sitting on it and it's running. Certainly not in the winter.

The Jerry Can mix is no more then a month old.

How would I go about checking for leaks. Like what kind of check list would I need to go by.
 
The thing that is puzzling is that it was running well before you hit the loose snow, after that, the thing does not run well, Correct! Two strokes like to run in the cold, but not too cold. Look at the kill switch it could have moisture in it, not enough to stop the engine but enough to weaken the spark. The increase in noise could be the muffler struck the snow and was forced back and opened the gasket at the head, the problem with this after running it would have oil blowing out front. I don't like the kill switch so I leave mine off, I think they kill the coil, and every time I have trouble it is the kill switch. If you have a headlight running off the coil this too could have water mussing things up. Water in the air filter would stop air from entering and would make it rich, you said that the choke needs to be on for a longer time so it is lean the water would have rendered it fat. Good luck Have fun, Dave

PS: If you are looking for a leak with carb cleaner just get the engine running (you don't need to be riding) and spray the cleaner around the gaskets. If you find a leak the engine will speed up or stall out (no need to do exhaust). One place that needs to be checked for leaks also is around the crank seals (under the covers) at the ends of the crank.
 
I can do that but I would have to make sure it's warmed up first. That and It's not -20 outside when I'm spraying crab cleaner around gaskets..I would literally have to do this while riding it. I know you said I wouldn't but the engine simply does not run unless your sitting on the bike with throttle down. If the bike stops moving the engine will stall out.

How would I go about just disabling the kill switch ?
 
To disable the kill switch, remove it. If it's not idling, check the idle screw...is it even in there? They have been known to vibrate and wear down so they can't be screwed in enough.
 
It is there. I looked at the kill switch and there is 2 wire going to it and I'm not sure if I should play around with it till I ask they guy I got the motor from how to do it. He would be more aware of how to do it then anyone really.
 
Amauter 79 - Just unplug both wires from the button, leave the two wires leading from the engine plugged into the coil. Have fun, Dave
 
I tested the kill switch for the first time and I found it to not even work to begin with. I can get the engine to idle. I have to get it going and then slow down and squeeze the clutch cable and it will idle till I let go. when it's warmer I'll check for leaks. I did notice when I took it out again that It sounded much nicer and was close to it's power it had before. The only thing I changed was the fuel to oil mix, put a back wheel fender on, sprayed the inside of carb with carb cleaner. Still does this little jerk back and forth when I go past around 36km I find.
 
I think I found the problem. The carb was not on tight enough and must of been leaking air. I tightened the carb and the motor was back to normal and just flying down the road. Hit 40 and even got it up to 44km on a slight downhill.

However..I'm lucky I didn't get really hurt...I found out i've been driving around on only 1 nut on the back wheel! I was wondering why the chain would jump off the sprocket when im trying to plow through snow. There was also where the back wheel felt like it was pushing outwards when I would go 40 and above..I couldn't believe it.I fixed the problem and took it out for a test spin to make sure everything was working properly.
 
use an easy out to remove it that can be fixed even if you have to re drill higher or lower you can relocate the holes
 
I think I'm gonna ship the engine out to Thunderbay where I got it from and get him to remove the bolt. Worse come to worse I may have to buy a new kit. I rather not though.
 
Moped79, Sorry To Hear About More Problems. I Was Looking In Mcmaster-carr Yesterday. They Have Left Hand Drill Bits, Sometimes The Bolts Screw Out When Drilling. Did It Snap From Vibration Or What ?? If You Send Me A Pm With Your Email Address I Will Forward "anger Management 101" It Will Make You Laugh, Very Funny. Good Luck Ron.
 
Vibration and I guess I didn't check enough or closely enough to see if the nuts where coming loose. Going from inside to the cold outside and back in all the time probably didn't help either.
 
NEAT TIMES said:
Moped79, Sorry To Hear About More Problems. I Was Looking In Mcmaster-carr Yesterday. They Have Left Hand Drill Bits, Sometimes The Bolts Screw Out When Drilling. Did It Snap From Vibration Or What ?? If You Send Me A Pm With Your Email Address I Will Forward "anger Management 101" It Will Make You Laugh, Very Funny. Good Luck Ron.
Click to expand...

Oh yeah, Thank You Neat for sending that too me lol, it was funny.

I need something like that on some days, ...... uh....whats your phone number rotfl
 
I forgot to add in that some of my problems with the engine was the carb. Turns out there was guck from the road that was making it's way into the carb and the carb didn't like that very much and cause stall out often. I solved the problem by getting a back wheel fender that wraps around the wheel and blocks road spray from reaching the carb.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top