Not sure if this series of pics was intended to be a pole, but my vote would go to seat post oriented.
MHF
MHF
Yeah, I'm just trying to sort thru mounting options, so I appreciate any votes/suggestions. Any experience is good experience.Not sure if this series of pics was intended to be a pole, but my vote would go to seat post oriented.
MHF
Seat post option looks nice.Not sure if this series of pics was intended to be a pole, but my vote would go to seat post oriented.
MHF
I like this one and thanks for the pics as was thinking about doing a similar mount.Per motorbicycling's request, a couple more pics of mounting options, this time with wheels on to give some sense of level.
First is the engine with mounting oriented to the seat tube:
Yes, and I noticed that on the downtube side of the engine, there is already a boss that is drilled for the engine kill mount, so there's already a place to attach another mount for the downtube. I'll see if I have a pic of it.I like this one and thanks for the pics as was thinking about doing a similar mount.
You would have to use a small bicycle size chain ring.
This orientation would be the easiest to make a mount for the engine.
Right, this is one of the downers I noticed. I'm not real keen on drilling and tapping that other oil boss location. I wonder if there is a way to attach a hose to the existing oil filler location and remote mount it in the upright position? Earlier in this thread young grease monkey suggested a clear tube as a way to determine the correct oil fill height, so I wonder if that idea can be extended to also create an oil fill tube?Does anyone have any thoughts on a dipstick with the engine mounted this way ? The other dipstick location isn't drilled and tapped on the 99cc like on it's big brother 212.
MHF
Not a bad idea about the seat tube support- measure and cut a longish seat post and hammer down in using another seat post..Sure, if you can find hose barb big enough to fit the fill neck. It would take a long time to fill up using that little drain hole. If mounting to the seat tube, I would put a pipe inside to add support to the seat tube. I have cracked seat tubes before.
Those type of forks look really cool on cruisers. Keep in mind though you really dont get full damping on those, its more of a change of angle.Since the front forks are bent, I had to get a new fork. Thought I might go with the Suzuki K10 fork, but after looking at the cost of all the additional little things needed to make it work, I decided to look for a simpler option. After a mornings worth of web searching, I found a used "Nirve Spring Action Threaded Cruiser Bike Fork (Chrome, 1 1/8-Inch Threaded)" for $17.00 shipped. Thinking I might get a set of the bikeworldusa 2.125 wheels and a front drum brake.
Thanks for the offer. I know that the Dyno fork was 1-1/8 threadless, as I removed it last week. I was concerned that the Dyno stem was kinda low; I've seen people say online that they have to place the handlebars at this awkard up-tilted angle to avoid striking their legs with the bars in a turn. I would like to avoid that so am going to go with a 1-1/8 quill and some sort of mountain bike bars (I think).Too bad you are not close, I have an extra set of dyno triple tree forks. Just so you know, look for 1 1/8 thread less That way you can use that nice stem
I've never ridden a bike with these springers on it so should be interesting. I guess I figured for such a small amount of money I would try them to see if I like them. They definitely have that vintage bike feel I am going for.Those type of forks look really cool on cruisers. Keep in mind though you really dont get full damping on those, its more of a change of angle.
I've ran both, the "springer" forks dont feel as solid to me as the rock-shock style at higher speed.
Plus, i like threadless headsets, and "springer" forks dont come like that (whem I looked I coulden't find any).
17.00 shipped is a smokin deal!