Double-checking connections before soldering

Brass Mann

New Member
Howdy folks,

Using the following kit from Amazon, I was unsatisfied with the kit-supplied connectors and decided it would be best to solder the electrical wires together; I however want some input on which wires go where, since all the kits use differently colored insulation.

The kit features the following wires:
From the magneto, a black wire and a blue wire
From the CDI, a black wire and a blue wire
From the killswitch, a green wire, as well as a black and white wire (which I call the zebra wire).

While I'm writing this, the logistics of wiring three wires together in a single circuit begins to puzzle me. If anyone has photo examples of how one does this, it could help me greatly as well.

Now, for some context on the build itself (only somewhat related to the question, TL;DR it's a no-spark). I bought the kit as a fun project to work on during the semester and ran into numerous alignments problems between the sprocket, engine and idler, which I was eventually capable of overcoming with a lot of fiddling and some frame modifications (which I plan to reinforce using brackets, since I did a sketchy deletion). Before installing the fuel system, I decided to test for a spark, and got nothing. I was able to eliminate some potential causes (tightened the clutch down, re&re'd the magneto), but still have nothing, and want to tackle the wiring next.
So far, I've installed the sprocket gear, engine (mounted with the supplied brackets, I used some old inner tubes to damper vibrations), idler, chain, spark plug, CDI, killswitch, clutch and throttle grips, and the carburetor. I have yet to mount the fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel valve, muffler or chain guard.

I've been testing for a spark by propping up the bike on a jackstand, spinning the pedals while the clutch is engaged and holding the spark plug (inside the CDI) up to the head, but no luck, hence why I want to get the wiring right.

Thanks in advance.
 
Here's a wiring diagram for ya...

Try not to over think things!!!
These are pretty simple & usually work fine right out of the box.
Get everything installed... make sure the rear sprocket spins as perfectly as possible & the chain runs straight & doesn't have too much slack.
Don't worry about testing for spark.
Don't solder the wires! If there's actually a problem in the future, it'll be a lot easier to test & replace parts.

We have a whole section here of good instructions for any problem you might have.


Good luck. (^)
.
MB wiring 2.jpg
 
Just make sure you have a little extra to cut them off and replace it if needed
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20230515-152156.png
    Screenshot_20230515-152156.png
    64.5 KB · Views: 143
Here's a wiring diagram for ya...

Try not to over think things!!!
These are pretty simple & usually work fine right out of the box.
Get everything installed... make sure the rear sprocket spins as perfectly as possible & the chain runs straight & doesn't have too much slack.
Don't worry about testing for spark.
Don't solder the wires! If there's actually a problem in the future, it'll be a lot easier to test & replace parts.

We have a whole section here of good instructions for any problem you might have.


Good luck. (^)
.View attachment 113393
Just figured I'd finally give an update. Got some spare time together and installed the remaining components, those being the fuel tank, valve, and line. Filled it about 1/3 of the way with a 16:1 fuel/oil mix, because it's a new engine. double checked my connections using the default connectors, putting the zebra wire with the two black wires and the green wire with the two blue wires. Checked to make sure my clutch worked, and it makes pedaling more difficult when engaged, so I think that's a go. Propped up the rear wheel, spun the pedals and, sure enough, nothing.

I'll look for other threads where this issue has been discussed, if I can find any. I will also be looking into various types of electrical connectors, since you stated soldering could cause future problems during diagnostics.

And thanks for the "good luck", I think I'll need it.
 
Here's a good way to check for spark...

1st... take the spark plug out of the engine... then attach the spark plug wire back to the spark plug.

Next... you're going to hold the spark plug threads to the engine head, (to ground the plug).

Next... with the clutch lever out , (so the rear wheel is spinning the engine), raise the rear wheel off the ground & spin the wheel hard!

You should be able to see a spark in the plug.

Try it & report back.
 
You want a blue/purple spark with the plug out of the engine... A yellow spark indicates a weak spark and under compression may not spark at all or stumble at low rpms...
 
.025- .028 gap... Because they don't have powerful magnetos to jump .035 like a modern car would have...
 
Here's a good way to check for spark...

1st... take the spark plug out of the engine... then attach the spark plug wire back to the spark plug.

Next... you're going to hold the spark plug threads to the engine head, (to ground the plug).

Next... with the clutch lever out , (so the rear wheel is spinning the engine), raise the rear wheel off the ground & spin the wheel hard!

You should be able to see a spark in the plug.

Try it & report back.
Tried that, no luck. Didn't trust the supplied connectors, so I switched to some CE connectors (see image attached). Tried again, still nothing. I suspect I may need to test some components for electrical resistance.
 

Attachments

  • 20230519_154223.jpg
    20230519_154223.jpg
    66.3 KB · Views: 123
Tried that, no luck. Didn't trust the supplied connectors, so I switched to some CE connectors (see image attached). Tried again, still nothing. I suspect I may need to test some components for electrical resistance.
Try eliminating the kill button from the circuit. (just blue to blue, & black to black only)
Also... What did you do with the white wire?
 
Try eliminating the kill button from the circuit. (just blue to blue, & black to black only)
Also... What did you do with the white wire?
I'll try your suggestion tomorrow, but replying now to say there was no white wire. From what I've seen online, many kits do not have it, as it's some kind of accessory wire.
 
Try eliminating the kill button from the circuit. (just blue to blue, & black to black only)
Also... What did you do with the white wire?
Reporting back again after trying a few things. Removed the killswitch from the circuit, still nothing there. I had some help from technicians at my internship in resetting the spark plug gap to 0.25 (which is what took so long) and tried again with that: still nothing. I'm guessing I'll have to look for a fault in the magneto or CDI?
 
Back
Top