see if you can get a picture of the speedometer.
if it's one they ordered, then it's probably the ones i keep finding on amazon.
do you have a speedometer
- Thread starter topdog13
- Start date
if it's one they ordered, then it's probably the ones i keep finding on amazon.
Actually you are in luck. I just finished rebuilding, and I always take a bunch of pictures whenever I finish a build/rebuild. I just happened to snap a pic of my speedo the other day.
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Yes I prefer to use a speedo. I've used a wired and wireless speedo. Wireless sometimes has interference and it has brain farts and says 0 mph when your actually moving. Wired is good, just have to make sure to tie the wire good so it doesn't get caught up and get torn to shreds.
right on, thanks! i know exactly which one that is. gonna order it now, curious though how it hooks to the wheel. looks like it's something that clamps to the hub from the pictures they show of it.
I've used one of those cheap mechanicals before...they don't work very well. Mine worked fine for a hundred miles, then it didn't work anymore. I rebuilt it, lubed it, worked again, but was not accurate whatsoever. It broke again and I tossed it.
Skarrd, yes, there is a part that attaches to the hub. It has what is called a striker pin, which goes in between the spokes. The striker pin drives a gear inside the part that attaches to the hub, which in turn spins the cable. The cable then turns another gear inside the speedo itself, which in turn moves the needle. Aleman, perhaps you got a cheap or defective one. Had mine for over 6 months now, no problems with it except for when I broke the cable, and that was my fault. A new cable, and it works just fine.
How fast do you go? I had one years ago on a non-motored build and it also broke once I went over 30 a couple times downhill. I went over 35 once on a motored build and that speedometer was never the same. It's common knowledge here that those cheap mechanical speedometers are unreliable at higher speeds. All those mechanicals are cheap/generic aside from the Whizzer version.
You guys can say what you want about the mechanical speedos, I have had mine for probably around 9 months. I go around 35 and it works fine. Maybe they build them better than they used to. Maybe somebody was paying attention at the factory the day mine was made. Maybe I put it on right. Maybe my bike doesn't vibrate too much. Who knows. Mine works, has worked, and I expect it to continue working for a long time. I had 3 wallyworld speedos that didn't work worth a crap. I am a firm believer that you get what you pay for.
If it works, and you're happy with it, more luck to you. You did prolly get a Wednesday built one, if yours is still somewhat accurate after 9 months. I've also not had much luck with the Walmart digital speedometers, they never last more than 6 months for me. I use my MaB as main transportation, so everything on them gets put to the test! Cheap stuff usually fails within a year, sometimes less in my case.
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I have bought 2 of the didital speedo 1 from ebay didn't work at all 1 from wally a Bell it didn't work either . Bought a mechanical analog from ebay it was junk needle bounced all over the place . bought another one from cycling deal usa for $15 and just tried it out works great only problem is it gives speeds in kilometers in BIG numbers and mph in small numbers only goes up to 60 km thats around 37 mph faster than I normally travel . I usually travel at about 40km or 25 mph at that speed it is doing very well so far time will tell .
MOST wired and wireless speedometers/computers are terribly affected by the engines RF.
If you could isolate the speedo wire from the wheel magnet on up to the speedo mount using a single twisted pair audio cable, you would find even the cheep bell units would work fine. That to me is an impractical solution requiring solderi
ng and exposed portions of wire. On this principal- if you discover a better way of RF isolation please share, lots of us here would use one.
If you could isolate the speedo wire from the wheel magnet on up to the speedo mount using a single twisted pair audio cable, you would find even the cheep bell units would work fine. That to me is an impractical solution requiring solderi
ng and exposed portions of wire. On this principal- if you discover a better way of RF isolation please share, lots of us here would use one.
I just use a resistor plug. My bike computer would keep resetting when ever I would rev the engine after installing the new plug problem solved.
I've used resistor auto plug wire with the only speedometer THAT WORKED, I blame that on my Little black CDI box going bad at that time. Kept me down for over 2 weeks figuring it out and waiting for parts. Probably didn't anything to do with it. I don't know. Anything resistant in the chain of electrics on the spark plug side of that box makes me skiddish to try. Everything about these damn motors are really quite fragile in my opinion. I have no luck with the cheep speedom/comps. and don't spend money on em.
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I've never had a CDI fail, but I've had a string of magneto coils fail, that I blame on a combination of, too wide a spark plug gap, a resistor plug cap, and high rpm running.
After reducing the plug gap to 0.025" and getting rid of the resistor cap I haven't had anymore failures.
I have a wireless speedo that's made to be highly resistant to outside interference. It works well up to 35 mph, but after that it's effected by rf.
http://road.cc/content/review/4706-knog-nerd-12-function-computer
Thanks for the good input. I got a couple mechanical speedos in a box but they're off 16" excersizer bikes. Can't imagine the accuracy being even close, so I never tried em.
can't find it right now on ebay but when I needed it I used a small round
RF interference filter, rapped the cord thru it several times and mounted it
no problems, can find one at most radio shack and electronics stores.
basically it's a small round magnet (I believe) with a hole in center
mine came with an old TV.
RF interference filter, rapped the cord thru it several times and mounted it
no problems, can find one at most radio shack and electronics stores.
basically it's a small round magnet (I believe) with a hole in center
mine came with an old TV.
FWIW, I use a Bell F20 wired computer, it works correctly about 97% of the time. Sometimes it freaks out and then is normal again.
Bosch Mag-core coil wire (gotta love extra truck parts
) and an NGK B7HS plug.
Bosch Mag-core coil wire (gotta love extra truck parts
) and an NGK B7HS plug.
Yup i been thinking about that very item. I'll give it a try. Rite now priority new electrics for gold gary fisher. Ordered parts from Duane today on skype. Way cool way to communicate with a respectable seller of parts. off topic sorry -but I tried pirate several times cause there close to maine. Duane ceilings at 9 bucks shipping I'm glad he was avail to take my order.