DIY Jackshaft

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woogie_man

New Member
Aug 9, 2013
223
0
0
Fargo, ND
Hey guys,

Well I am getting things started for my build, and I keep coming back to the jackshaft part. I know I could buy one, but being as I am building the frame and everything else I would like to build the shaft as well. I know I will need some pillow blocks, a shaft, and of course gears. But what I keep seeing while looking around the forum here is that his are using what looks like a spare hub. Is this correct?

Any hints or anything would be great, being as I would like to keep everything built here in my garage.


Thanks in advance guys.
 
Chainreaction

Chainreaction

New Member
Dec 14, 2014
159
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Tulsa OK
I made my own, mainly because I wanted my own design. Steel from Lowes Hardware. The bearing are about $2.50 each from SBP. 1 1/4 muffler clamps for $1.50 each from auto parts store. Hard part was making the holes for the bearings, didn't want to use bulky more expensive pillow blocks.

I don't know what "hub" you are talking about, perhaps the bearings?
 
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mat_man

New Member
Jan 29, 2011
224
1
0
athens ga
NAPA auto parts stocks or can order the 1 1/8" muffler clamps for $1.50.

from SBP:

1.125" clamp fits a ~1.125" - 1.25" OD bike tube,
1.250" clamp fits a ~1.375" OD bike tube
1.375" clamp fits a ~1.500" OD bike tube
1.500" clamp fits a ~1.625" OD bike tube
1.625" clamp fits a ~1.750" OD bike tube
1.750" clamp fits a ~1.875" OD bike tube
1.875" clamp fits a ~2.000" OD bike tube
 
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Chainreaction

Chainreaction

New Member
Dec 14, 2014
159
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Tulsa OK
Nothing wrong with pillow blocks, they are no doubt stronger. But they cost more and are heavier, I am trying to keep cost and weight down. If my health gets better I am interested in building these as a business so trying to fine tune everything. For a one time build pillow blocks would be much easier. Very nice build on that bike.

I just got a new computer (old one is dead) with Windows 8.1 and an old digital cam, haven't tried to see if the software exists to download pictures yet so no pictures at this time. That is what I should do right now...
 
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Chainreaction

Chainreaction

New Member
Dec 14, 2014
159
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0
Tulsa OK
Basic jackshaft that I can weld onto if necessary, only have cheap fluxcore mig at this time, as you can see by $hiity welds on bike frame.

Muffler clamp is temporary, need to make brackett for clamping end.

Oh Ok I known what you mean about hub now. If you don't need the gear reduction from jackshaft to crank then seems like it would work..

P1010003.JPG
 
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HackD

Member
Oct 25, 2014
61
0
6
Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Hmm.

I've got two BNIB Pillow-blocks 1" diameter IIRC, not used in a project 10+ years ago. They were intended for a heavy-weight sway bar install, but i went with .75" pillow-blocks instead.

They are heavy, and definitely were relatively expensive. Not the most compact of pillow blocks either.

Still, this gives me some ideas.. that could be dangerous.

 
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MEASURE TWICE

MEASURE TWICE

Well-Known Member
Jul 13, 2010
2,766
1,264
113
CA
Using what you can find and DIY, great!

I used 3/16" steel angle brackets and the Azuza Engineering JackShaft Kit. The kit came with a couple of size gears with it.

The collar clamps I changed though as I like split collars that won't mark up the shaft with the set screw. I suppose if you have the keyed shaft, you can try to have the set screw only press a 1/2 height key made special.

The trouble for me was changing stuff enough times and have stuff hard to remove. I went with the split collar type, but then found out that they were slightly wider diameter on the outside. This was rubbing on the metal very edge of the bearing, so I shimmed in between with washer that the outside diameter was less than the split collar.

MT
 
BarelyAWake

BarelyAWake

New Member
Jul 21, 2009
7,192
21
0
Maine
Not sure if sarcasm or not lol - but as it can look complex at a glance, it's just a 5/8" keyed shaft, two cogs & a "BMX" freewheel w/shaft adapter... it looks busy because this particular setup uses additional stop-collars rather then just set screws on the cogs (for spacing & to be sure the bearings stayed put) but more then anything else it's got a disemboweled & reversed rear derailleur arm for a pedal chain tensioner - given it's a multispeed recumbent, that pedal chain is something ridiculous like eight feet long or so (total).

Another difference is this isn't a pedal crank freewheeled setup - so some of the "complexity" is actually simpler, it's jus' all on the jackshaft rather then spread out all over the bike. This jackshaft/freewheel design is FAR less expensive then the specialized shift "kit" freewheel cranksets but more importantly, it's also significantly more reliable as the engine & pedal drives are isolated until the final. Also, unlike with the crank freewheel setups should that freewheel fail, you can still get home :)

 
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woogie_man

New Member
Aug 9, 2013
223
0
0
Fargo, ND
That is what I wad looking at.

The only question I have is how do you get the freewheel party is things? That is what had me stumped right now.
 
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woogie_man

New Member
Aug 9, 2013
223
0
0
Fargo, ND
Kind of...he sent a link to a guy that used a rear hub assembly as a jack shaft kit.

But even looking at them now, it should be fairly easy to have the place I work at machine some slots in a steel shaft for the sprockets. Now all I need to do is find some scrap bikes for parts.
 
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f250cobra

Member
Nov 3, 2010
57
1
6
Central,Pa
Here is the only good picture I have of mine.

It consists of three chain wheels, a 23 tooth 415, a 16 tooth BMX freewheel on the other side going to the pedals, and a 14 tooth three prong going back to the cassette where I can shift into 7 gears. Works well. would work better with a 30 tooth 415 right off the motor.
 
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