Disengaging Coaster Brake

M

MyrmidonJuan

New Member
I found this link: Suntour Freecoaster/Coaster brake

Has anyone here done this and had success?

Also, is there any other way of eliminating the coaster brake without replacing the hub? I just ordered a sprocket adapter and measured my current hub, so I don't want to get a new one because I don't want the adapter to be useless.

I found these: Parts > Freewheels 1-speed - harriscyclery.net

Could I just buy one of those and slap it on? I'm not sure how those work.

My goal is to eliminate the coaster brake so I can get rid of that stupid piece that bolts to the frame...while being able to keep my existing hub.

Any ideas?
 
Regardless...in order to gain access to the hub, I'm going to have to eventually get the rear wheel re-spoked. I'm wondering if I should have just bought new wheels with a free spinning rear wheel.
 
You could look for a wheel with the same size hub. I'm willing to bet you can find one that is near enough to work with no problems. If you ask Jim he could tell you what sizes would work with minimal work.
 
I've been looking around and so far I've unsuccessfully found a free spinning rear wheel. I would want 26 x 2.125 dimensions so I can I fit Felt's Quick Brick tire. Also trying to find a hub in the same ball park as 1.527. I'm I getting too specific here? hhhahha I haven't even found a cruiser wheel with a freewheeling hub period, yet I need to fulfill certain dimensions. I haven't yet asked Jim about what sort of range I can transfer the adapter in.
 
If changing the rear hub is the way you want to go you should be looking for single speed BMX bike rear hubs, as these will match the rear spacing of the coaster brake. If you are willing to spread out the rear drop-out spacing on your bike, you can then look at single speed MTB rear hubs. Are you aware that all coaster brake rear hubs are not the same mech. inside? The link you provided is for a Suntour Coaster Brake From your previous posts I'm guessing that the hub you currently have is not a Suntour and probably one of the many chinese copies of a Shimano. These types of hubs don't make very good FreeCoaster Hubs in my experience. Also if you go the FreeCoaster route you don't need to remove the Hub from the wheel (unspoke the wheel) to make the necessay changes.

ocscully
 
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Bikeguy Joe said:
What about removing the shoes from a coaster brake hub?
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It works done as teenager. the clutch cone and the retainer still grab the hub just line. Plus, no annoying ticking sound from the freewheel. 2,3,or 4 shoes it don't matter.

If you want to to it the hard way go ahead.

I was hard pressed for ideas in speech class and took one apart and put it together as as speech.
 
OzzyU812 said:
It works done as teenager. the clutch cone and the retainer still grab the hub just line. Plus, no annoying ticking sound from the freewheel. 2,3,or 4 shoes it don't matter.

If you want to to it the hard way go ahead.

I was hard pressed for ideas in speech class and took one apart and put it together as as speech.
Click to expand...

Took out the 2 pads inside my hub last night and was able to pedal forward and engage the pull brakes without the pedals almost breaking my feet/ankles whenever I would engage them. Seemed to do okay whenever I would spin them backwards for a short distance to make sure they didn't lock up.

Did you have any problems afterward on removing the pads? How long were you able to use the hub? Any problems with the frame cracking? Anything you can think of would greatly appreciated.
 
My dad did that to my first bike. A poor man's freewheel. The only difference I noticed was it took longer to engage forward pedaling after backwards pedaling compared to how it acted before.
As for hub life, it will last just as long as a hub with the pads still inside.
As for durability and strength, the same goes. It's just as durable and strong.
I never had the frame crack from it either, and I jumped that bike 3+ feet in the air frequently.
 
GearNut said:
My dad did that to my first bike. A poor man's freewheel. The only difference I noticed was it took longer to engage forward pedaling after backwards pedaling compared to how it acted before.
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Not a problem with the EZmatic I have on there...since it's almost ready to fly as soon as the engine is started. ;)

Quenton makes a great transmission. Was well worth the money I paid for it and worth more than every penny it cost me. The engine and transmission have caused me 0 problems...unlike the Flying Jacka$$ 2-stroke I was running last year.

As for hub life, it will last just as long as a hub with the pads still inside.
Click to expand...

It will allow me to control the bike and keep my feet/ankles from being broken whenever I want to brake.

Want to replace it with the HD freewheel from Terry in Vancouver this winter or spring. As long as the axle lasts till Thanksgiving or Xmas...I will be a happy camper.

As for durability and strength, the same goes. It's just as durable and strong.
I never had the frame crack from it either, and I jumped that bike 3+ feet in the air frequently.
Click to expand...

Just want to keep it on the road. Anything else than that is for others to destroy their rides.;)

Am getting the rear wheel wobbling like crazy right now. Gotta get some chain added to both sides to put the axle all the way into the dropouts to get the wheel true more than I can right now.

Thanx for answering my questions!!!
 
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