Darn it!!!!! Please Help!!

TyDow

TyDow

New Member
Hi again,

I got the sprocket done and on the bike. I thought that I had gotten it aligned ok and tighten all of the bolts. Now I noticed I still have a bit of a wobble when I look down at the sprocket when I spin the tire. Any suggestions as to getting this thing to align without losing the bolts? I tried to loosen the bolts and start over again but they are very tight. Thanks in advance.

Ty:-||
 
DON'T TIGHTEN THE BOLTS TOO TIGHT!!!! Loosen them a little and spin the wheel; tap the sprocket with a plastic head hammer until it is straight then snug the bolts in a 'star' pattern!
You can hit it in any direction to make it straight...
 
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He said tap it, not hit it with a five pound sledge...

I use a plastic hammer too. Never bent a thing.
 
Just a thought here but is your wobble viewed from the side or above the sprocket? If what you're describing as a wobble is actually an out-of-round condition (sprocket not centered on the hub) then follow the advice offered by the guys above but if the sprocket wobbles side to side a hammer won't help. You need to keep the torque (amount you tighten the nuts) consistant or one side of the sprocket will be pulled in more than the other which will give you a side to side wobble as viewed from above the wheel looking down. Hope this helps but if not let us know. We're here to help.
Tom
 
The plastic hammer trick works VERY WELL to fix a slight side to side wobble too! (that's AFTER torquing the bolts properly of course!) ;)





wish we lived closer we could have fun!
Norman
 
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More sprocket stuff.. I have mounted and removed the sprocket on my (first attempt) Huffy until I lost count. I have worn out the inserts on the Essna type locknuts and had to get new ones. After having the sprocket bored it will go on the dust cover but there is no way the sprocket will line up with the drive gear sprocket. My machinist friend came over and the eyeball could tell without even pulling a string in a straight line that this ain't going to work. He said in spite of all the pictures and instructions to turn the sprocket around with the dish outside and the shinny side outside which will give needed width. I did and can tell that with a string it lines up straighter, but can tell that the fender will have to be cut or removed to clear the chain. I believe the chain will clear the frame but may rub the tire. My question is: Should I continue, or is this the wrong thing to do?
Progress has been very slow and challenging so all advice and information is appreciated.
Thanks,
Pedal Pusher
 
Turning the sprocket around is fine and I'd guess that they were built like that for that reason. The fenders always seem to get trimmed for the chain and is no big deal.
Washers or spacers can also be used to spread the chain stays out by putting them on the rear wheels axle and if you feel it's needed you could also use spacers on the sprocket to bring it out more.
For me installing that stupid thing is the worst part of these kits but you will get it.
I guess you don't have a camera?
 
I always used at least two fender washers to move the wheel over a bit. But that was a while back I have no idea how the newer kits might fit.
 
Thanks Toytime for help about the spacers. I think I will need to use them to move the sprocket more to the outside to make it wider for it to be in alighment with the engine sprocket. Where would the spacers go? Outside the rag doughnut between the sprocket? Then too, I need to move more axle thread through the hub to have more thread on the sprocket side for the room taken up by the sprocket, retention arm, washer, locknut,. Without spacers now there isn't enough thread showing to install the mounting locknut for that side. So how do you move the axle through the hub? I have gotten it out of adjustment twice and carried it to the bike shop. It only takes a few seconds to adjust it, but I just don't seem to have the touch those guys do.
Thanks again.
Pedal Pusher
 
The two inner nuts keep the axle centred. Think of the axle as a threaded rod. If you loosen the nut on the right side, the axle can shift to the left and you tighten the left side nut. For every turn of the nut on right side, the left side nut will be tightened an equal amount.
As for spacers on the "rag", I would think an ideal spacer for this would be one large spacer with holes drilled for all the bolts. A third "rag" would do even if you have to make one out of plastic, rubber or metal.
I could be wrong but I don't think you would want to just go with washers as spacers because in my mind, the washers would sink into the rubber. Washers work well to spread the chain stay open though.
 
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