Complete list of engine screws, bearings and seals

Going to update tomorrow after work (approx 13 hours from the time of this post), Found a parts list that lists different sizes than the ones I listed (the ones in the document are the ones I pulled from my motor and measured with a caliper, though), as well as some of the other nuts I missed (such as the nut that holds the clutch and sprocket on).
 
missle3944 said:
when it says like

M6x25

does the 25 mean the length of the stud?

Thanks
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yes, if you go to a hardware store, that's what you'll see on the packaging. Very rarely (?) will it mention the pitch unless it's using a nonstandard pitch. M6 usually has a 1mm pitch though.

Huffydavidson said:
The new blocks have cylinder studs that are 8mm X 1.25 pitch
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Yep, thats in there. 1.25 pitch is standard pitch for 8mm studs.

Updated the parts list with the numbers from the official parts list. Doesn't seem like they're correct as nearly all the bolts and screws I have are different lengths. Still, it provided some good information such as the clutch and sprocket nut size.

Can anyone confirm the small bevel gear screw being M8 with 1.00 pitch? I mine stripped out and I cant get a good measure.

Using www.nuttybolts.com you can buy all of the mentioned hardware (well... most, actually). judging from the fact that the hardware kit SBP sells uses a different kind of stud for the rear mount than the front, I'm assuming they order from this site as well, because they don't list a hex-stud with 70mm length (the one they send you is cut from a threaded rod, most likely, same with their head stud kits).

To get a box of 100 of each of the different kind of bolts you will need, will cost around $65. If you buy just enough for one engine it'll be about $9. As a comparison, SBP sells 'em for $10 so... just buy from them and get all the right sizes.
 
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Update: Looks like the holes the studs thread into are longer than the stud inserted into them, particularly the front mount studs, by around 1/4". I'll measure the rest of the holes to be sure, but the more you thread into the motor, the stronger it'll be. Of course those of us (like me) using bolts to mount will need that room for tightening so those using the actual studs and nuts will have a stronger mount
 
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Updated the list to include stud depths in the case itself. Measured with a digital caliper, this means that people can find or cut an exact-length stud for maximum case strength! Happy building.
 
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU FOR SEAL + BEARING INFO!!!!! _MoTO

edit: this is pretty nit picky but some tanks are m8
 
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mew905 said:
Updated the list to include stud depths in the case itself. Measured with a digital caliper, this means that people can find or cut an exact-length stud for maximum case strength! Happy building.
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I cannot speak for your engine, but the two that I tore apart and played with their guts on, the stud holes were not threaded all the way down to the bottom of the hole.
 
Moto said:
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU FOR SEAL + BEARING INFO!!!!! _MoTO

edit: this is pretty nit picky but some tanks are m8
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really? I've never heard of a kit tank that uses M8 screws. Can anyone verify so I can add it to the list? Maybe it's the 1gal tank? But for sure no problem, I could never find a complete list myself so I decided to make one, and the lower end bearing was a huuuuuuge pain to try and figure out. Apparently you can just take the old crank bearing in to a shop, apparently its a commonly used industrial bearing, only if you're able to replace them (which means you should have the ability to both split and reassemble/true the crank halves)
 
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mew905 said:
really? I've never heard of a kit tank that uses M8 screws. Can anyone verify so I can add it to the list? Maybe it's the 1gal tank? But for sure no problem, I could never find a complete list myself so I decided to make one, and the lower end bearing was a huuuuuuge pain to try and figure out. Apparently you can just take the old crank bearing in to a shop, apparently its a commonly used industrial bearing, only if you're able to replace them (which means you should have the ability to both split and reassemble/true the crank halves)
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edit: my bad - the studs are not m8 i misspoke they are one size smaller than the standard ones. They use a nut which uses an 8mm wrench - ill measure the size in the morning i cant remember it for the life of me.
 
Moto said:
edit: my bad - the studs are not m8 i misspoke they are one size smaller than the standard ones. They use a nut which uses an 8mm wrench - ill measure the size in the morning i cant remember it for the life of me.
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sounds like an M4 (but I think they use 6mm bolts) or an M5 (possibly 8mm bolt?). That's strange though, and it's a kit tank too?
 
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