Coaster Brake Problems

Predator303

Predator303

New Member
hi everyone. i need an advise. in the past 2 months i had 2 coaster brakes break on me, and when i say break i mean completely messed up to a point that my rear tire blocked completely and the pedals would just turn and almost make me crash.

i have had a new one installed in a place for bikes here but this one is dead too now. i start to wonder if this might be because the regular ones are too weak for a motorized bike?!

anyways, can anyone please forward me to a good and heavy duty coaster brake on ebay or any other website to i can order it to get it installed?

or maybe somebody got one lying around??
 
what kind were you using? the histops, falcons, and KT's have been know to self destruct.

i've used a shimano CB E110 on a lot of bikes and never had any problems.

also gotta make sure they're adjusted right. if the cones are too loose or too tight it'll wear them out real quick.
 
I dont have any idea. I'm guessing some standard brake for regular bikes. Its a oldschool bike store and the guy is 500 years old haha but the only bike store that actually deal with coaster brakes. Everything else here is carbon fiber high tech bikes stuff.
 
I remember seeing this brake in Amazon. That was the one I wanted to order before the last repair but I didnt wanted to be a week without the bike. Could it be that because the spokes are not in perfect condition in the rear that the hub gets damaged be the uneven movement of the rim? Its not extreme but maybe thats the reason.
 
Based on the fact that you said the pedals move, it sounds like the coaster brake arm is coming loose from the frame and rotating freely. The pedals moving is exactly what happens when the brake arm comes loose. if you reattach the coaster brake arm to the frame, that should solve the problem. Some frames have a tab welded in place that the brake arm bolts to, others just have a clamp that goes around the chainstay. Either way, the brake arm has a hole through the end of it to bolt onto something. check that out and let us know what you find.
 
No the brake arm is perfectly in place.

I am just thinking about something. The Shimano brake is about 25 bucks

http://www.amazon.com/Hub-Shimano-Cb-E110-105G-Trim/dp/B004E3N02E

While a complete rim with brake is about 20 bucks more. Maybe it makes sense to order the entire rim.

http://www.amazon.com/Sta-Tru-Steel...345331326&sr=1-2&keywords=coaster+hub+26+duty

What do you guys think?

Edit: In both cases before the brake broke down, the brake power got much better couple days before almost too powerful that it was hard to brake the right amount without braking extremely hard. Also, the pedals move backwards now if I push the bike in reverse.

Anyways this brake is done. I would just like to understand how that could be so fast.
 
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As long as your hub and bearing races arent damaged, you can install the shimano brake in your existing wheel. Thats what I would do to save some coin, but just my opinion.
 
Also, the spokes being "not in perfect condition" wont mess up the coaster brake. My wheel is almost 3 years old. My spokes have gotten a little stressed in that time, and my coaster brake works perfectly fine. I would also invest in a front brake. if you are relying on coaster brake only, thats part of your problem. Especially if you are hitting it hard all the time. Coaster brakes are not made for hard stopping. slamming a coaster brake at 25 or 30mph will toast it quick. I bet thats your problem. get a front drum or disc.
 
I have a disk. Will get replaced this week with a new one. I think too that it was too much speed for the coaster brake and probably some cheap stuff.
 
My first bike I only used a coaster brake. I never had any problems, but its a heavy-duty wheel. On this bike, which is my second build, I have had front rim brakes, but they suck. I recently invested in a front drum brake, and I am much happier with it than I was with rim brakes.
 
You need to add good bicycle bearing grease to the inside of the rear hub BEFORE using it, & as Baird said, It needs to be properly adjusted.
The bolt that holds the 'brake arm' on needs to be torqued down heavily & you also need to keep the dust cover in there too because its needed to properly torque the brake arm down!
 
if the brake was working too good before it died, you probably melted all the grease out of it. they work amazing when they're dry, but they don't last long!

the brake shoes push up into the hub shell to stop, and without any grease, it's metal to metal, and you can actually fuse them together from the heat.

i use "red and tacky" grease in mine.
 
I use white hi-temp grease that has a dropping point of 500 degrees fahrenheit, and a crapload of it at that. I coat the cones in it, then I dip my bearings in it, then I put the bearings over the cones and coat everything again. I put the hub back together and wipe the excess off the outside of the hub.
 
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