clutch

tarstar

tarstar

New Member
just starting on the clutch i guess i should really post pics again but i think its easier to explain.. it seems my throttle doesnt have alot of play in it.. and im wondering what the proper way to install the clutch would be i know its on forums some where but if anyone has a quick link to it please feel free to post.. thanks again. .i should be done very soon im mixing the oil gas ratio to about 5 % for first run is that about right??cvlt1
 
ok so in the first 2 theres what i have set up .. and the last picture i need advice on what i do to with the clutch itself should i unscrew that little screw and move it .. or should i install the cable firstr.ly.
 

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gosh i think im done with this bike ! getting to be a pain chain keeps comming off and it looks like the clearance for chain blows!! what to do hahah fun stuff
 
ditch the tensoiner. remember we have same frame i had same trouble. get 1/2 link and chain breaker and new master link. best to go without master link though reassemble chain. you still got my list with notes?? i think i'm repeating myself :) good you have flat rear sprocket also. any bigger tire that 1.95 and chain will hit.

the strap on mine really helps with the vibes too.

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i still dont think i can go without tensioner.shft.
 

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the tensioner on mine knocked off the master link and kicked my chain off.
now im off to fix it and im not sure what i will do,i'll probally replace master link and the plastic wheel on the tensioner.
 
Cabinfever1977 said:
the tensioner on mine knocked off the master link and kicked my chain off.
now im off to fix it and im not sure what i will do,i'll probally replace master link and the plastic wheel on the tensioner.
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I strongly recommend getting rid of that tensioner if your bike allows it. You were lucky not to destroy the rear wheel and go over the bars like my buddy. Also make sure you're putting master link back facing the right way.
 
As with a lot of things there is always more than one school of thought. I'm a strong supporter of using the chain tensioner. If installed and aligned correctly they help guide the chain onto the rear sprocket and give you easy adjustment when the chain begins to wear (some call it stretch but it is actually wear that makes it loosen) Here is a good fix for the tensioner bracket coming loose and rotating into the spokes. We all know how dangerous and expensive that can be. You can use a bolt and nut, no bigger than a 10/32 bolt, or as some do you can use a self tapping screw at the point detailed in the attached photo. Either way you need to take special care to get the tensioner wheel perfectly aligned with the chain path and rear sprocket before drilling. Often this requires putting the bracket in a vise and giving it a slight twist to get the correct angle of the wheel in relation to the chain path. Most bike chainstays have an angle incongruent with the motor drive chain so clamping the tensioner to it without this twist will result in misalignment. Good luck with your choice.
Tom
 

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i have 2 master links on my drive chain. i think one of the links caught on the tensioner(yes it was on backwards) and i was doing around 35mph,so the link fell out and chain fell and caught in clutch arm cover.my tensioner has a bolt and 2 hose clamps to hold it to the frame(no it wont move or go into wheel even if you pushed on it with your hand). i went to walmart and bought a 410 chain with master link for $7 and a chain breaker with another master link for $5(i know nobody likes the chain breaker,but i wanted the extra master link and i wanted to try a chain breaker out since i usually just use a power saw to cut my chain. im going to adjust both chains and i dont know if i need the tensioner on yet. but with having longer chains i now can slide my wheel all the way back in the frame.
 
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