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Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by greasy tom, Apr 30, 2010.
Thanks for the info, Jim.
I hope it clears up some of the issues brought up in this thread.
where can i get those motor mounts whats the website if u could let me know i would appreciate it thank u
You can try Pirate. I don't know if that mount is still available. The vendor who offered them is no longer a member here but some of his products are still available from > Pirate Cycles
Absolutly isolate.. The fact is if you ridgid mount it the action of the motor will result in a 5k plus harmonic. Never mind that you feel it in your ass, your motor feels it. I've broken 2 carbs and blown 3head gaskets from the vibration. **** rubber, Spring type shocks work better. My bike is in it's third season now. I've broken 3 sets of studs off the rear mounts. The keys is a spring loaded dynamic type chain tensioner to take up the slack of the slight engin movement and spring mount the engine... Only allow enough movement to disapate the ocililation created by the piston action but DONT ridgid mount or you'll be tightening your head bolts every 5 miles and going back to find your aircleaner every2.
Sorry but I and many experienced builders will have to disagree with your thinking.
This isn't based on theory but experience. An engine that is mounted solidly to the bike frame will not compromise the mounts or mount fasteners. If you've broken three sets of mounting studs that should be telling you something. Springs, rubber, whatever, any resilient action between the engine and frame will eventually come back to bite you.
My thoughts and what I do, mount solid to the frame, but most important is that the mounts need to be installed correctly.
For noobs...here are some pointers. Engine Mounting pictures by Ron-Becker - Photobucket
When I first built my bike (rigid mount with stock clamps, no chain tensioner) the bike would set my feet numb in 10 miles. After using a spring loaded neoprene roller to just take the vibration out of the chain (hand tight by using dropouts and axle placement), I haven't had the problem and the bike runs fine. Chains have lasted a LOT longer now.
I don't know what experiences you guys have had, but I must disagree with this negative stance on using rubber padding on the mounts.
I've used some rubber from home depot bungee belts, and months later they're still there and work just fine. The engine has stayed in place and I've never had to re-tighten the mounts or change the rubber once.
EDIT: This is what I used:
Just cut off pieces or slice them in half to the size/thickness you need, and they work great.