Well, a 6v battery will work the best. The white wire puts out an average of a little over 6v (you need more voltage than the battery to charge it). An RC car pack may work but it would have to be NiCd or NiMH because a Lithium battery requires special circuit, but NiCd or NiMH like to be fully charged and discharged. They wear out quick if you keep them topped off.
I would recommend a 6v lead-acid lantern battery. They're relatively small and they have high amperage to power a horn or high-intensity lights. It charges well off the white wire or a dynamo. You can find them cheaper than this, but here's an example: UPG Sealed Lead-Acid Battery
You do not need a diode between the white wire/dynamo and the rectifier at all, in fact, that will cut performance/power output in half. Put any diodes AFTER the rectifier, on the DC side. The purpose of the diode I'm recommending is to prevent the battery from discharging into the rectifier circuit (it shouldn't do that anyway, but the capacitors may "leak" a little current.) Other people use a diode directly on the white wire as an inefficient rectifier, for if they don't have a bridge rectifier. All a diode does is make sure current goes only one way, like an electrical check valve. An AC power source has positive half the time, negative the other time. A Diode just blocks the negative, so you only get power half the time. A rectifier "flips" it so you get full power all of the time. Putting a diode between the rectifier and white wire blocks the negative, so the rectifier can't "flip" it. The rectifier is redundant if a diode is used on the white wire.
A good sized diode to use on the battery would be 3-amp. Even though the battery is larger than 3amp, you're only trickle charging from the rectifier, and you won't go over 3amps unless something shorts out. Diodes
I really should make videos or more step-by-step instructions on how to make a complete electrical system. I know it would help a lot of people, as this seems to be a more and more common thing to add to a bike.
I would recommend a 6v lead-acid lantern battery. They're relatively small and they have high amperage to power a horn or high-intensity lights. It charges well off the white wire or a dynamo. You can find them cheaper than this, but here's an example: UPG Sealed Lead-Acid Battery
You do not need a diode between the white wire/dynamo and the rectifier at all, in fact, that will cut performance/power output in half. Put any diodes AFTER the rectifier, on the DC side. The purpose of the diode I'm recommending is to prevent the battery from discharging into the rectifier circuit (it shouldn't do that anyway, but the capacitors may "leak" a little current.) Other people use a diode directly on the white wire as an inefficient rectifier, for if they don't have a bridge rectifier. All a diode does is make sure current goes only one way, like an electrical check valve. An AC power source has positive half the time, negative the other time. A Diode just blocks the negative, so you only get power half the time. A rectifier "flips" it so you get full power all of the time. Putting a diode between the rectifier and white wire blocks the negative, so the rectifier can't "flip" it. The rectifier is redundant if a diode is used on the white wire.
A good sized diode to use on the battery would be 3-amp. Even though the battery is larger than 3amp, you're only trickle charging from the rectifier, and you won't go over 3amps unless something shorts out. Diodes
I really should make videos or more step-by-step instructions on how to make a complete electrical system. I know it would help a lot of people, as this seems to be a more and more common thing to add to a bike.
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