Chain Tension Idea

F

fugirocksolid

New Member
Hello.

Basically I have been having trouble with my chain being too slack. Even with the tensioner it is wayy too loose.

Now the problem is the chain is cut as small as will allow with conventional methods of putting it on. Which is running the chain through the front sprocket while attached to the rear sprocket and connecting the master link.

A method I was thinking of runs along the lines of the one used to reconnect the chain when it has derailed.

So basically, break the chain 2 links shorter than before but connect the chain when its off the rear sprocket. Then allowing it onto the rear sprocket by rolling the bike backwards and rolling the chain onto the sprocket.

This would remove potentially all my problems with chain slack, as it would be the perfect tightness.

But this is only hypothetical, is this even viable?

Has anyone else used this?

Cheers
 
why don't you take the wheel off after figuring out how many links to use, then put the chain on the sprocket and put the wheel back on?
 
Don't you have a chain "breaker" tool? If not, a quality one is a good investment. You can forgo the master link or go complete half-link chain if you want to fine-tune chain length.

Master links and half-links on full-link chain induce chain imbalance, but it doesn't matter under 30, IMHO
 
The_Aleman said:
Don't you have a chain "breaker" tool? If not, a quality one is a good investment. You can forgo the master link or go complete half-link chain if you want to fine-tune chain length.

Master links and half-links on full-link chain induce chain imbalance, but it doesn't matter under 30, IMHO
Click to expand...

I have that, im just really wandering if the idea i listed would work.
 
Ya got two chains tho with that setup. Not always that simple lol

Keep tinkering with it, you'll find the happy medium. Your chain should not derail, ever.
 
I have great luck with my stock style tensioner.

Set the height of the roller dependant on how close the tensioner is to the sprocket. You can fine tune that distance to your heart's content! As far as alignment, you can adjust the stock one well enough with bracket and roller reversal and tilting, almost 1/4" - 1/2" of room to align with. As well, you can use a tensioner from above. Done right, using 1 stock tensioner you can adjust to compensate for 1.5 - 2 full link "segments" (link and half link = 1 link "segment"). With a second tensioner above you can adjust it at LEAST twice that, which opens up single chain and multiple sprocket combination for "on the fly as it gets" sprocket changes.
 
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