CARBS...I give up

Maybe try running 24:1, a NGK B5HS plug, & replace the wire & boot with high quality replacements?

The way magnitos work is, the faster they spin; the more powerful the spark!! (slower, the weaker)
My theory here is that maybe the plug is fouling a little @ idle, & that maybe replacing the ignition parts & running less oil will make the idle stronger?

Also, get rid of the plug-ins & solder & heat shrink the wires!!!

OK How do I replace the wire from the CDI? Should I just pull it off?
 
Wait, when you disengage the clutch at 100% the engine dies? You mean you're letting out the clutch with the throttle wide open at a stop?

Disengage at 100% means pulling or pressing the clutch lever all the way at 100%...at 50% it revs very high at full rpm...then at 100% the engine shuts down.
 
Disengage at 100% means pulling or pressing the clutch lever all the way at 100%...at 50% it revs very high at full rpm...then at 100% the engine shuts down.

Are you pedalling to help the bike take off from a dead stop??? (You know you're supposed to pedal a little to start, right?) :eek:
 
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the float bowl/carb need to stay level, or bowl will be forever without enough fuel and the air/fuel mix into the engine will always be too lean, learnt this mistake the hard way.

also look into the throttle. make sure the caby end/needle is seated rights as when you try to idle the throttle mights not be going all the way into idle position.

there is a couple of notches on the carby walls where the throttle cable cylinder/pin/needle have to be seated correctly with.
 
Are you pedalling to help the bike take off from a dead stop??? (You know you're supposed to pedal a little to start, right?) :eek:

No this is not about starting...This is issue is idling...When I am on a stop light I need the bike to idle at full stop. At a dead stop I pulled the clutch lever then in revs at full rpm at 50% and then shuts down at 100%.....what is happening now is every stop light I come across I end up on a dead engine and restart again....I really do not know why the engine goes full rpm at 50% of clutch lever and then dies at 100%...big bummer..
 
It unscrews.

OK I cannot seem to figure what is to unscrew...I tried the one lined in red and it is not moving or unscrewing...I checked the wires itself if it can unscrew, and it is not either (lined in blue)...can you detail how to change the spark plug wires...thanks
 

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the float bowl/carb need to stay level, or bowl will be forever without enough fuel and the air/fuel mix into the engine will always be too lean, learnt this mistake the hard way.

also look into the throttle. make sure the caby end/needle is seated rights as when you try to idle the throttle mights not be going all the way into idle position.

there is a couple of notches on the carby walls where the throttle cable cylinder/pin/needle have to be seated correctly with.

No this is not about starting...This is issue is idling...When I am on a stop light I need the bike to idle at full stop. At a dead stop I pulled the clutch lever then in revs at full rpm at 50% and then shuts down at 100%.....what is happening now is every stop light I come across I end up on a dead engine and restart again....I really do not know why the engine goes full rpm at 50% of clutch lever and then dies at 100%...big bummer..


try my above solutions and get a better wire between your cdi box and spark plug, i go with 7mm coaxial cable which has a solid copper wire core, if still having issues have a look at your connections between the magneto to cdi box, they might not be 'clean'

also check your spark plug, could be a terrible one that doesn't like low rpm, yet also ****s itself @ high rpm. ngk b6hl for my bike, working well so far.
 
OK I cannot seem to figure what is to unscrew...I tried the one lined in red and it is not moving or unscrewing...I checked the wires itself if it can unscrew, and it is not either (lined in blue)...can you detail how to change the spark plug wires...thanks

the blue lined one, the 7mm thick one coming out from the black box ( cdi box) just unscrews by hand ( turn it anti clockwise). it holds on/in by a screw that digs up into the wire itself from the cdi box.

the other end of the 'blue' labeled wire should just uncap from the spark plug. ( the boot = the 'L' shaped plug on the spark plug itself)
 
Had a look at my spark plug wire the other day and it definitly does not unscrew at the black box on mine.So you say that when you pull the clutch lever halfway it starts reving higher which can make sense but you say when you pull it all the way in it stalls..I'd have to see that to believe it.
 
here's another goofy question...

is your clutch arm hitting your carb? i've seen that before. you might be shifting your carb when you pull in the clutch, enough to make an air leak.

i don't think the wires, the magneto, the cdi, or your connections are related to your problem if the bike runs, and revs, but just won't idle, it's almost certainly gotta be fuel related, not electrical.

be careful how much stuff you start messing with, or you'll compound the problem. eliminate one thing at a time till you find it.

and i thought the same about my plug wire, but it really does unscrew. you wouldn't know by looking, but it does.
 
Are You Running Any Lights Off The Motor? I've Found That To Many Lights Will Make It Hard To Idel, Or Not Even Start.
 
Had a look at my spark plug wire the other day and it definitly does not unscrew at the black box on mine.So you say that when you pull the clutch lever halfway it starts reving higher which can make sense but you say when you pull it all the way in it stalls..I'd have to see that to believe it.

It is unreasonably insane to start a thread on a make believe or a made up problem! I have been looking for solution on this issue for 5 days research all over the forum before I open up this thread.
"
Yes on a dead stop when I pull the clutch lever at half way it does rev at full RPM and when I pull it all the way the engine stalls. I wish I can get a video of it for you to believe.
 
here's another goofy question...

is your clutch arm hitting your carb? i've seen that before. you might be shifting your carb when you pull in the clutch, enough to make an air leak.

i don't think the wires, the magneto, the cdi, or your connections are related to your problem if the bike runs, and revs, but just won't idle, it's almost certainly gotta be fuel related, not electrical.

be careful how much stuff you start messing with, or you'll compound the problem. eliminate one thing at a time till you find it.

and i thought the same about my plug wire, but it really does unscrew. you wouldn't know by looking, but it does.

No Sir...the clutch arm is not hitting the carbs. I will try to unscrew the plug wires now...Anyways what is the best plug wire and booth that I can order online. Thanks
 
Check the post where the clutch cable attaches to the motor.
It may need screwed in more.
Seems to leak if it is screwed out too far.
Mine had idling issue and thats what fixed it.
 
I think he's got the clutch cable running into the carb...if you twist the throdle does the engine disengage?

No Sir...the clutch cable is not running or binding with the throttle. I do not know the question about twisting the throttle. This issue is about idle..what I know you should not twist the throttle if you want to idle. It should be in the un twisted position...correct?

See the pics below..Thanks
 

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