Cape Cod blue wally world cruiser alt

[cannonball2]

Gooseneck I have the same problem with my GT2 build because of running 24" rims, the posts are higher. Still pondering the brakes. Seems I saw the newer frames have 2 sets of posts?

I bought a disc set up for another build and it came with the thread on adapter. Just as a point of interest if one has a spare rear freewheel wheel you can swap the axle to a front, thread on the disc and have a front disc brake wheel. I may go back to 26" wheels just to make life easier on myself.

Not trying to jack the thread either but these discussions are fairly relevent to the topic.

 

[gooseneck]

Gooseneck I have the same problem with my GT2 build because of running 24" rims, the posts are higher. Still pondering the brakes. Seems I saw the newer frames have 2 sets of posts?

I bought a disc set up for another build and it came with the thread on adapter. Just as a point of interest if one has a spare rear freewheel wheel you can swap the axle to a front, thread on the disc and have a front disc brake wheel. I may go back to 26" wheels just to make life easier on myself.

Not trying to jack the thread either but these discussions are fairly relevent to the topic.

Amen.

it's not i cant' go rear disc (have in front TRP) kinda dig the V style though.
and stopping power is mostly up front. when kids i hardly ever used front brakes or just slide out the rear to stop LOL!

Zip, what do you think of the New GT2A-S frames are they a better, easier,
proper fitment build?

ps you guys have to remember i have not finished my build yet, who knows what needs to be changed after first test. i just know it's fun.

 

[gooseneck]

Gooseneck, This thread would of died a fast death if it wasn't for the meandering conversation you are having, that's how it should work my friend. I'm learning good stuff!
I've wondered about the sprocket disc brake combos myself...they seem to be too good to be true. There is as you know about a 135mm gap between the GT 2 A chain stays and last time I just bent them together by stomping on the frame, so I wouldn't have to install a long axel in the hub and use a bunch of ugly spacers as I wasn't going to have a gear cassette anyhow, just a lowly 110 mm axle coaster hub. Maybe I shouldn't stomp the new GT frame I'm building and give the combo a try. What do ya think? Love to hear more on the pros and cons of the Sprocket Disc Brake adapter combo... Popcorn is popping.

this is where my rear went. Shimano Deore hub 135mm, tighten until the frame touched the (original hub @ 150mm),just couldn't keep it from springing back ("don't do that again Eric"), search and ah yes read and find out to remedy this, longer axle bolt, spacer which i did not need just bolt and nuts (so much for rear Quick Release), then onto sprocket adaptor two piece wasn't happening send it back. then this (tried to make one just didn't go well).

http://custommotoredbicycles.com/sprockets_for_disc_brake_hubs_universal_disc_sprocket_adapter
got find a way to plug up extra holes not being used. UNIVERSAL DISC SPROCKET ADAPTER the $24 dollar one, scroll down a ways.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GSKSYS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045PL32A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0063W76WO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

The front was a dream.

Just a note: since we're on a hub subject at least with a (Rear Gear Cassette)
Spokes on that drive side are about 3mm longer than the other side of hub for "Dishing". on my 26" rim i used 154mm and 258mm spokes.
also if you have gears not every thing is compatible, the chain, cassette, derailure, the shifters Oh! My! Thank Goodness for this forum and reviews
or would have quit or ended up at the LBS paying way more, and not learning. so really it has been a "win win" (always hated stupid quotes like that).

 

[ZipTie]

Gooseneck I have the same problem with my GT2 build because of running 24" rims, the posts are higher. Still pondering the brakes. Seems I saw the newer frames have 2 sets of posts?

I bought a disc set up for another build and it came with the thread on adapter. Just as a point of interest if one has a spare rear freewheel wheel you can swap the axle to a front, thread on the disc and have a front disc brake wheel. I may go back to 26" wheels just to make life easier on myself.

Not trying to jack the thread either but these discussions are fairly relevent to the topic.

My new Grubee Skyhawk frame does have the 2ea. v brake posts so it will takes 29 inchers or 700mm wheels and or standard 26" I'm going to use left over upper posts for a retro seat support brackets with a layback seat post of some type or just turn signals maybe. So if you keep the 24 inchers you need to put those posts to work doing something.

 

[ZipTie]

Gooseneck, I'm still a bit confused why the disc /sprocket adapter from Lynn didn't work out for you? man you have been thru the wringer on this set up.
And I saw the links, dang that is a lot of bolts and holes. Also on a funny note: "You made me spit my coffee out on my desk...on the "don't do that again Eric" comment, so thanks. I hadn't done that since I was a kid.

 

[gooseneck]

Lynn is like super nice, got to talk to her once.
anyway the split adaptor (trust me i -was- trying to use off the bike what i thought i could use on this build) was for the original hub, some of her measurements on her wording and what the calipers showed in pictures were two different things, by then the Deore hadn't arrived yet and figured it would fit, it did not, flanges are too tall. so i was already set on keepn' the the V's and apparently the other adptor (adapter) had just came out, so i purchased it. as far as the holes maybe they act as heat relief- blah! LOL! could just fill in with set screws.
i did somethn' really cool today can't wait to post the picture.
waitn' on tubes, stock valve stems were too fat, tired of drilling out beautiful aluminum.
i think into things too much, get frustrated and "Just purchase the dang thing". problem solved................... sometimes.
can not wait for the next build. it's sooooooooooooo muuuuuuch fuuuuuuuuuun!
all you guys and some gals have so many nifty rides.
P.S. all else fells I'll just have to purchase a rear disc brake.
i did spring for the Jagwire compression-less cables OH! oh, oh, real nice, they have to be the coolest part of the build, love the Pro Indexed Inline Adjusters. reminds me of fine jewlery. and yes i have Action Figures Not Dolls. LOFL

 

[ZipTie]

Gooseneck...so the second adapter worked well, got a pict? As far as the cables, I'm only familiar with the old style cables, I have never seen these Teflon, sealed Jagwire cables and alloy outer links instead of plastic tubing .You should post a thread on them after you use for a bit. They sound nice, I or many of us are not familiar of the advantages. The inline adjusters sure sounds cool. Ill have to do a search and see if anyone has used this cable system on a MB. This stuff is fun. I'm trying to decide if I get another CNC hub pincher sprocket, or the Disc brake sprocket combo, or just use the coaster brake and add a squeeze brake on the rear like I did and stomp bend the GT 2A chain stays narrower. If I get the Disc brake adapter then I have to get a longer axel and mess with the hub internals beyond just greasing them. The crossroad build decisions can be trying. They are great when they work well, but frustrating when they don't work out - as you guys know all too well. Its this info we all seek in taking and sharing. I need to decide by tomorrow if this new build is going to be done by Spring. look forward to seeing your new build.

 

[cannonball2]

That sprocket adapter seems overkill/over engineered. You can buy sprockets that bolt on directly. Amazingly it has a listed weight of 4lbs! I bought a clamp type sprocket adapter(with sprocket) from Kings for around $45 that fit the smaller single/multispeed hubs. It allowed excellent adjustability simply by sliding side to side.

In theory the GT2 frame is built so the sprocket on the engine will align with the driven rear sprocket. I too stepped on the frame to make it fit a single speed freewheel hub. The chain line will undoubtedly take some tweeking.

Since I am building my own mounts that wont be an issue. I'm thinking I will return this build back to 26", run a coaster in the rear and a disc up front using the modified rear wheel.

If you haven't bought the Cape Cod, you might consider looking for a standard cantilever frame(like the Cranbrook). They have been around forever and there are some excellent quality ones on used bikes out there. I bought a Trek cruiser at the thrift store for $30 that made an excellent start for a project.

Just some thoughts.

 

[ZipTie]

That sprocket adapter seems overkill/over engineered. You can buy sprockets that bolt on directly. Amazingly it has a listed weight of 4lbs! I bought a clamp type sprocket adapter(with sprocket) from Kings for around $45 that fit the smaller single/multispeed hubs. It allowed excellent adjustability simply by sliding side to side.

In theory the GT2 frame is built so the sprocket on the engine will align with the driven rear sprocket. I too stepped on the frame to make it fit a single speed freewheel hub. The chain line will undoubtedly take some tweeking.

Since I am building my own mounts that wont be an issue. I'm thinking I will return this build back to 26", run a coaster in the rear and a disc up front using the modified rear wheel.

If you haven't bought the Cape Cod, you might consider looking for a standard cantilever frame(like the Cranbrook). They have been around forever and there are some excellent quality ones on used bikes out there. I bought a Trek cruiser at the thrift store for $30 that made an excellent start for a project.

Just some thoughts.

On my first GT build I used a Manic mechanic sprocket and 3 point clamp for the 110 mm coaster hub and got my chain aligned even with the frame stomp. However I had only 1/8" chain clearance on the chain stays...cutting it close. Used a 4 bolt chain tensioner, and it all seems smooth. I am going to get 41 tractor chains from the local Fleetfarm store soon.
Today I am going to rip apart my new Cheez PK80 and clean it up, file and polish the fins after disassembly of cylinder as I see a big scuff on the top of cylinder wall, when I look in the spark hole using a flashlight. it maybe just a small surface scuff. Ill clean some thin flashing off the exhaust port and check the intake also. Drill out the pedestal mount and try to mount the narrow PK on my new yellow GT frame.

I haven't got the Cape cod yet, My son and a friend both built a rag jointed 89.00 Cranbrook over here in my garage and they both look pretty bad azz and I like them. I was just looking to build a different looking inexpensive daily driver type bike and the cape c bike looks like a panama jack but without the welded on luggage rack that seems to crack the frame. I may just go with a Cranny though...for a sure thing.

 

[gooseneck]

i'm still truing my rear wheel so no pics yet. i'm almost there, i tend to take my time on things i have not done before. it's funny how that works.
Ok, sorry about the coffee incident, i forgot to type that earlier.
now for cables (reminding you i,m not hip on all these great new products that are out) so when lookn' into disc brakes and came across the TRP HY/RD
which by the way you can use for the front and or rear, it,s recommended to use compression-less cables ( so what's that?) start googling, researching and
seemed Jagwire was the brand (apparently there is a better brand, but dang by how much in performance and cost) reminds me of audio cable (that is a different story), so i figured i'd try them. one set comes with enough cable and fittings to do both front and rear, and then i went and purchased the shifter cable and the Indexed adjusters.
i have been a Amazon consumer whore since 1995, Flea Bay not too often,
specialized shops when absolutely necessary.
have fun, build well, and watch your knuckles.

 

[ZipTie]

Take your time. Ya don't want a mucked up wheel.

 

[gooseneck]

as that a wheel that's muddy and F'd up?
inquiring minds need to know.
tubes came in early, pics soon to come. I will post those on the http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=60456

when do you start The Cod?

 

[ZipTie]

mucked up wheel means your wheel is rhymes with... you know and guessed it. LOL. so don't muck up that wheel you are lacing. I wont do the Cod build till this new GT 2A is done or my brain will get all mucked up and Ill install every part on upside down and azz end backward and both bikes will be mucked up.
Last night I finished the file and polish on the new Pk 80 engine. Glad that's done. Turned out pretty good looking for a HT motor. I will install chrome side cover set on it if I can bring myself to spend the 41 bucks they want for them.
2 hours with the file and about 2 hours polishing gets you this...

 

[gooseneck]

I was going to paint the CYL.. Heads black and polish this and that but I can do that at a later time.

 

[ZipTie]

I figured if I didn't finish off the engine before I installed it, I would lose interest. My buddy just painted his head black and then filed down the cooling fins to reveal the aluminum, looks nice. Next engine I'm going to try a courser file and get it done quicker and then moving to a fine file.