cant get bike to idle

M

masterx1234

New Member
how do i get the bike to idle without moving forward because everytime im at a stop sign or red light i have to brake then the engine shuts off, anyone know? .duh.
 
i tried but its loose and pulling the clutch doesnt do anything, its freely moving like theres no tension (dont mean the cable)
 
heres a pic of my problem (not my bike in picture just an example)
 

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Do you get any engagement of the clutch at all? Can you move the clutch lever toward the engine with your fingers (counterclockwise when looking down on it)? If you can then you may be missing part in the linkage or have a defective clutch. Otherwise you may just need to adjust the cable. Good luck!
 
You may be missing the ball that goes behind the actuator pin. But my first guess is that you cable just isn't adjusted properly.
 
Adjust that clutch cable. If the adjustment barrel is threaded all the way out, thread it back in, tighten the slack by reattaching the cable to the clutch arm, and start turning the barrel adjuster again. On a 50 mile commute, I sometimes will need to adjust my clutch cable twice.
Regular old slip pliers (not channel locks) are the easiest tool I've found for turning the little barrel adjuster. Good luck.
 
u have to make sure you pull the clutch cable as tight as you can with the clutch lever out. i also had trouble with this at first
 
masterx1234 said:
heres a pic of my problem (not my bike in picture just an example)
Click to expand...

sounds like the bearing under the clutch bucking bar may have fallen out? If it is out the clutch lever can not push the clutch far enough to disengage. Please forgive me if I have misunderstood your problem, I was trying to follow but not certain I am getting you....
A stock clutch arm should start to engage (meet resistance) when it is about parallel with the motor, moving the outer end of the arm approximately the width of the section of motor that contains the drive gear should disengage the motor. If your clutch moves further than that you probably have lost the bearing, or your flower nut needs adjusting....
 
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Check if there is a little ball in between the clutch pin and the clutch. It might be stuck in there with grease, but a magnet can get it out. Apparently, if you don't have it in there, the clutch cannot disengage. Can you pedal with out starting the motor?
 
ok I'm in that same boat. My China kit won't idle at a stop either. I have my clutch adjusted and I can pedal to start and the clutch works and engages disengages the motor when I need to but still no idle at a dead stop. I tried to adjust the idle screw and that made some differance but I'm at a loss. Could it be the needle in the carb needs adjusting (the clip is in the center) I don't know what direction to make it more or less if you get my drift. I'm not that guy but I guess I'm experiencing the same delima no idle at a traffic stop. Any help would be appreciated.

cheers happy holidays all

cvlt1
 
Sinistar said:
ok I'm in that same boat. My China kit won't idle at a stop either. I have my clutch adjusted and I can pedal to start and the clutch works and engages disengages the motor when I need to but still no idle at a dead stop. I tried to adjust the idle screw and that made some differance but I'm at a loss. Could it be the needle in the carb needs adjusting (the clip is in the center) I don't know what direction to make it more or less if you get my drift. I'm not that guy but I guess I'm experiencing the same delima no idle at a traffic stop. Any help would be appreciated.

cheers happy holidays all

cvlt1
Click to expand...

I found that the clutch can drag a bit and make the motor struggle to idle. The lock pin on the clutch handle is usually not holding the handle fully in, if you pull the handle further does she idle? If so, then you probably need to adjust your clutch cable a bit (tighter). Also, sometimes if your cable routing isn't the greatest your throttle and clutch cables can move a little when the front wheel is turned, causing varied clutch drag and throttle position that can cause the bike to die.
If it's not something physical (above) causing your problem then you probably need to do some carb adjustments, to help you with that you would need to tell us what model carb you have. More details about your motor in general would be helpful, they are all very similar but not the same, specially the carbs.....
 
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Um I think I need to check if I have that ball in there. I had taken the plate off and I adjusted it but never saw or noticed to look for that.

Cheers to all,
brnot
 
Sinistar said:
Um I think I need to check if I have that ball in there. I had taken the plate off and I adjusted it but never saw or noticed to look for that.

Cheers to all,
brnot
Click to expand...

The ball bearing behind the bucking bar doesn't fall out very easy cause there is grease packed in there that kinda holds it in place (or at least there should be!). That said, they can fall out, but usually only if the motor is laid on its side with the bucking bar removed. If your clutch was adjusted and working with the bearing in place and then later assembled with the bearing missing you would notice a HUGE difference in the pull on the clutch, I doubt you could get the motor to disengage enough to freewheel and pedal....
 
Yeah your right. I tore that side of the motor down last night and parts cleaned it and regreased it in there. I also got my kit to hold a idle. I got the stock plug and stock carb. I got the china kit like the russian engine DB family but it's a knock off 80cc copy of that. I think that's right the pics looked like mine and I would say from the looks of it that it's a copy just sat in warehouse and took a stupid long boat ride. I'm running kinda lean but the motor is in break in still till this 1st gallon of mix is used up. It's cold here tonight and my kit's loving this cold weather.

Cheers all and Happy Holidays
.wee.
 
Sinistar said:
I got the stock plug and stock carb.
I'm running kinda lean but the motor is in break in still till this 1st gallon of mix is used up.
Click to expand...

Well, from kit to kit "Stock" can vary a bit for both plug and carb. Some have a cheapo plug, others have a cheapo three prong plug, some have NT carb, others have CNS carb (of which there are 3 varieties). Other than that, and the stickers, they all pretty much look the same...
I would prefer to run a bit rich instead of lean for breakin, more fuel=more oil in the mix which is what a new motor needs. I assume you are using a mix somewhere between 16:1 to 20:1 for breakin mix? (opinions vary, you just need to make sure a new unlubricated motor has plenty of oil in the mix for the first couple gallons)
Glad you got her going, enjoy!
 
thanks for your reply. Yep I'm running rich I said the wrong term. But im using good oil amounts with my gas. I'm mixing like 16:1 could be a bit richer I used a bit more oil than last time. My problem now is the exhaust it broke after the welder welded it up. the factory bracket sucks I need a better exhaust and better bracket (home depot trip). I made my own copper(x2) exhaust gaskets but the exhaust still broke from the bracket. I guess the stock gasket blewup and was making to much play thus the exhaust moving way too much. And my plug wire is now giving me problems not fitting on the plug I have to use electrical tape to keep it in place.

VIBRATIONS SUCK PROTECT YOUR BIKE

Cheers to all happy new year
zpt :-||
 
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