Building a Ht Motorized Bicycle or Three.

[sub66]

dave that is the dle reed. the gt60 is maxed out with a 14- 15mm carb. please check its open size as it doesnt look any bigger but has diff reed mount etc than the gt60 wich went in my junkpile actually as i prefer something else.

the gt 60 had a free length of 18mm giving it a stiff .140 tip ratio. it would have 4 stroked till 50 percent throttle then lightswitched to a decent top end. i have watched all the test videos to verify this.

i was wanting a dle 60 to look at. atleast it has better reed mount than the gt60. not that it wasnt ok.... just not great for a single speed and i have one i prefer so far the last 6 months it has handled my bull@@@@- and given out standing results w no tlc. It has a phenolic spacer aswell.

i have soom stainless reed petals aswell as fiberglass. im wanting a dual tension reed or perhaps a variable tension system. i think 3 fiberglass and one steel might be nice.

u need a little filter restriction for those butterfly carbs... try a 90 degree elbow filter before you loose your mind. also spacers before and after the carb or crashing air will disturb the carb signal.

 

[Theon]

Thanks Sub,
The GT 60 and DLE 60 thing was confusing me a little.
It's obvious now that the RSE reed is the GT60.
The DLE 60 reed does look a little longer and therefore should open further.
I'm ordering one.

 

[sub66]

sounds good t. u confuse me w the rse equals gt60 comment actually. i thought rse equalled long 2 petal polini or whatever.

my reeded boost ported 66cc have been seeing 7200 rpm plus w my 15mm walbro hda-48.

 

[Theon]

There is a 4 petal RSE and a 2 petal.
The 4 petal looks to be a GT60, the 2 petal is probably just a GT22?
I'm thinking to try and swap the gt60 for a DLE60.
Very curious to see it the DLE 85 is usable for case induction.
Depends on how wide it is.

 

[sub66]

i went thru 4 pizza pockets and came up short looking 4 a dle85 in complete. check the da100

 

[Davezilla]

Thanks for the info on the reed Sub... I bought mine off ebay listed as an OS GT60 reed, but then after seeing pictures of the DLE reed on several sites, I understand now...

The reeds do flex pretty easily but I'm thinking maybe get a thinner reed to put on it depending on how it runs once I set it up. I always use the least restrictive filters I can find with my setups, and I've been also known to buy an outerwears filter sock and just use that, I've also bought K&N knockoffs and burned out the cotton so I just have a screen for an element, which I don't recommend in dusty conditions... Even stretching a nylon sock over a velocity stack makes for a good filter if you don't live or ride in dusty conditions.

Back to the reed in question, I'm going to try this out on my new engine by making an adapter out of 1/2" thick billet aluminum and milling out the reed chamber then match porting the adapter to my cylinder intake port. This'll let me know if this reed will be good enough for higher performance or not, One thing that made making the adapter plate real easy was that the reed and the carb have the same bolt spacing, but finding some M5x.7 bolts that are like 55 to 60mm long is a bit of a challenge, I may end up getting some steel bar stock and cutting threads on each end for the mounting bolts.

Where the plate mounts to the carb, i'll need to counterbore the bolt holes because the reed will sit right above those bolt holes as well. I have a vinyl plotter that can cut the gaskets so making them will be as easy as scanning the bottom of the reed valve and sending the image to my cutting software, my machine will cut thru .030" thick gasket paper like it's butter.

Mine should be running in the next few days as I was waiting on a few more copper gaskets from Juice... and they got here to me QUICK this time... so now I just need to set my squish, set up the fuel line, make another adapter for my air filter, and install the new engine, the good part is that I'm using a jug and set of rings that are already broken in so I can play hard as soon as it's together

 

[sub66]

thats how my 10 dollar reed works man. getter done. i like my reed so much i have 6 fiberglass and 2 made in 1964 w s.steel petals. the ones 1964 outperform both the rse reeds btw i believe. my new fiberglass are much better thou.

im seeing 7-8000 rpms so no need for anything else. if i found something that could install as easy as a gt22 reed..........to small.

 

[sub66]

copper gaskets will heatsoak the bottom end and deliver less power and empty wallets.
i cut off 2/3 of the gasket stud holes/ leaving 1/3. the studs are now visible to cooling air and seal the cylinder not the studs. beauty.

 

[Theon]

I'm still curious to give my brass reed a go, and it's nearly done, will be looking for some small CS screws on Monday for the reed stops.
I could not find a DA100 reed, but nice motor.
Have Emailed DLE asking for the petal width/dimensions of the 85.
http://www.dlenginesaustralia.com/dlshop/engine-parts/dl-100-dle-111-dle-222-reed-valve-p714.html

 

[sub66]

yea subscribed. more please. i was going up hills doing 60 kms an hour then getting another 800 rpm on flats. i need a taller gear ratio.

 

[Theon]

I'm thinking 32t on the mongoose, but can't find one in OZ, postage from the states sucks.

 

[sub66]

ok but a round not oval sprocket lol. perhaps a name brank like vuelta. any sprocket that msrp's for less than a dollar a tooth will be maybe oval. but now with more cad design perhaps there is a gray area. the idea is that good sprockets are drilled largely at once not consecutively. expensive specialized machinery for that.

i agree a 30-32 toth w be nice to tune with while keeping good accel. im large 24 inch wheels so im leaning to a 31. lots of steep hills here too.

 

[Theon]

All flat open track here, a few high speed twisties and the odd dip through a bridge, would love to borrow a GO PRO and vid a ride.
But on the otherside of the river,
Steep winding ranges and a ferry that groups the traffic.
There is a couple of 2nd gear in the landcruiser spots.
I'm thinking of trying the Softtail with the shift kit for a run over the range, Just a bit worried about getting her to hot with prolonged hill climb?
What sprocket you running at the moment?
I'm not sure for the goat, leaning towards the 39t with big 26" knobbies, but have a 44t on ATM.
There's still a few well maintained unsealed roads around here, and would be fun up on the farm. We hare a Quad bike track through the Bull paddock, Rainforest, and stony creek crossings, so I'm looking for dirt bike type grunt.

 

[maniac57]

If you have multi speed capability, just run a good low gear for those long climbs and a big hoop for the flats. You can easily deal with a big gap between gears...it's not like you NEED to shift up through the gears like a motorcycle.

 

[sub66]

theon the 44 tooth felt like second to 3rd gear depending on setup. 36 tooth passes 60km/h up every hill here and feels like 4-5 gear. perhaps i should be happy but 2 teeth more anyway.
i really really like the long pull feeling/ if it didnt do it up hills i would be sad.


the 36t last year w a low ex and blowdown boost ported was great trail riding. perfect speed for slamming trails. the peak power at 4-5 thousand was greatly amusing. if you get into trouble like sliding out you could smash the gass with OUT the wheel shooting to 70 km/h while ur doing 25km/h sideways etc.

i built me bike for worst case senario like a rally car. the worse the road conditions get the better the bike works.

 

[sub66]

maniac i cant figure a two speed w a 415 chain with any useable difference between the two gears. custom gearbox . or belt sounds real good for a road bike.

besides if u gonna add gears then i wouldnt want it with a crank that was so heavy. show me a light crank and my motor might be be worth more than 120 bucks.

hmm maybe my next 700c build could be belt drive for smooth high speed. nice!
maniac can i hit high speed w belt drive?

 

[Theon]

I had a belt drive GPZ 250cc Kwaka as one of my first road bikes, was fantastic.
low maintenance, clean, smooth and didn't lack speed for a 250.

 

[maniac57]

Belt makes no difference. Drives just as good as chain and quieter too. Harder to design a good setup but very much a viable alternative if you have the skills and time.

 

[sub66]

theon i have my sbp pipe modded so it has the stock 3/8 stinger for 1 inch into 1/2x4" silncer with a 1x6 final. it is airplane style and sounds like one. the idea is to broaden a otherwise narrow powerband. while gaining lowend. while keeping top rpm high and heat low.>>> all at the same time and tuning becomes easier. strong baffles work well for that or u cant fill the pipe i think.

airplane style. most will convert to this line of thinking in the future i believe. you can thank me later. sounds bad but im tired and trying to help. whats the point of a sick power band when rpms pass it by leave a clogged exhaust holding in heat and stealing low end. put the pipe at top and have to pedal to 4000 rpm?

if you want to remain cool dont pass the ex port peak power w a small silencer outlet!!!!!!!!

in a full circle back to the bigging. the idea is to use the pipe for good not evil lol.
the stinger needs to fill the pipe not the silencer so the smallest should be at the end of the baffle. larger longer silencer is a good backpressure for stinger but never backs up and overfills.

 

[sub66]

the idea is get the pipe full like normal but to never overfill and keep exhaust speed high so as gaining low end and keep heat moving OUT for max rpms aswell.