briggs & Stratton 3hp 80300 MODEL HELP.

Discussion in 'DIY Home Built Motorized Bicycle (non kit)' started by TheSignGuy, Oct 11, 2017 at 12:57 AM.

  1. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    Hey so I've been riding a few days and I have 2 small issues one I think I have an issue with hesitation... the spark plug clearly indicates I'm not off set on the carburetor settings it's perfectly in tune.

    Yet, I am experiencing Lag after awhile running at top speed there is no internal weights but the air vane is still attached.

    This is a belt drive based system...


    Would the vane improperly functioning have an effect at top speed over countless run times? Feels as if I have an air leak...


    In addition, in the rain mild or not at times I could have an issue with my drive system feeling like a 400m kicking into overdrive.


    Will run a decent speed then boot in and out.

    Hit a pot hole today and stretched my belt as well....
     
  2. curtisfox

    curtisfox Active Member

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    Check your plug for color see if it lean, if not the ladle idle mixture screw may need to open some. It governs the transition between idle and higher rims. That is the one on top right that was descused before .............Curt
     
  3. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    Can't be lean was just triple analyzed before plug change that's why I think I have a lower intake leak...

    Thinking could have also a bad idle screw....

    Also I noted that as of recently it speeds up at idle at times...

    Thinking its time for new intake gaskets...

    I got so many ideas I don't know where to start I know I am going to cam it soon rieken racing out2win.com.


    Copper gaskets sound nice.


    Also since the predecessor of the original flat heads are raptors....


    Are raptor parts partially compatible?
     
    #3 TheSignGuy, Oct 11, 2017 at 9:36 PM
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2017 at 9:41 PM
  4. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    Found the problem upon disabling the governor I found that my car bolts where loose. The reason I did not pick up on it before is because there is a rod that holds the carb in place that also holds the spring once it's loosen it you can see the play at the mount bolts.

    Governor down! #


    Copy that...#
     
    #4 TheSignGuy, Oct 13, 2017 at 2:31 PM
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2017 at 2:57 PM
  5. curtisfox

    curtisfox Active Member

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    Glad you got it...............Curt
     
  6. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    Pulling out for testing in 20 minutes phones dead.
     
  7. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    Works great a bit smoother as well.
     
  8. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Well-Known Member

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    Hit a pot hole today and stretched my belt as well....

    That'd mean that the structural bracing between motor mount and the bike's rear axle is insufficient.
     
  9. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    Oh it's sufficient lol I finished adding the last of the rods to drive bikes crank side today...

    Went down a 40mph street/back road and even crossed train tracks and still rode...

    Think of this photo but multiplied to both sides.

    That sob rides!!! Stout too!..


    Hahaha it's so stout I lost the original rack Allen screw today and didn't even realize it the fender dropped on one side but the rack didn't drop not even a hair.


    So in general I'm thinking every 6 to 8 months if necessary the rods will need replacing the original rod idea came from spokes of the bike but instead of being made with equal tension it's strength is based on how much it warps. If it warps just tighten or loosen.

    I'm running a tad bit rich ATM but not by much working on getting a real twist grip set up and debating changing to torque converter since my rpm does not meet centrifugal clutch rpm standards.


    (Chatterer) but stops some times for a bit then begins chattering again.

    IMAG0170.jpg
     
  10. curtisfox

    curtisfox Active Member

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    Belts don't stretch that easy or at all, they work or ware there way in to new setup. My opinion you gear ratio is to high, most run a jack shaft. That way you could put the clutch on the jack shaft, and not work so hard................Curt
     
  11. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    May have to run that back by me one more again, so there are "v belt Jack shafts?"


    I got room but I'm pretty close to the bikes weight matching my own at this point.

    The only room I have left is for a jackshaft and an alternator from a car.

    If I'm correct someone quoted I need a 1.75 pulley would that work as a single pulley. Then throw the clutch on a jackshaft?

    At that point... that's a lot of MOD that's why I wanted to go torque converter cause the solutions easier.

    It's pros is low end speed faster acceleration better up hills and less slippage up hill...

    I just want the tambourine player chatter to stop all together I already have a 10t chain clutch as backup...

    If I'm correct my hubs 4.7mm wide so I have room to play around with the drive but will be driving it this Thursday to work.


    Would probably up the front chain ring sprocket so I can assist the motor instead of it assisting me.

    What about adding in a scooter cvt for a clutch? At least I'd have control on gearing.
     
    #11 TheSignGuy, Oct 16, 2017 at 10:18 AM
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2017 at 10:38 AM
  12. curtisfox

    curtisfox Active Member

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    Jack shaft is nothing but a shaft with a key way cut in it, and either sprockets or pulleys, and mounted with bearings.

    Car alternator is a AC generator, takes about 18 hp at dead lock ( or full charge mode ) won't work.

    Your clutch pulley is about 3" , so a 1.75 on motor and about 4 or 5" on jack shaft, then clutch to wheel.

    Torque converter is in fact a jack shaft with variable pulley ratios, with belt or chain to rear wheels.

    Would probably up the front chain ring sprocket so I can assist the motor instead of it assisting me. Get the gear ratio right and you won't need to assist.

    The scooter cvt's are for the most junk, for the most part and meant for scooters, and short lived.

    Now before you go any further, go to the DIY section and READ some of the older post and learn! What you are doing is trial and ear, and could get costly before you are done. Learn for others, you have post all over in the forum trying to do short cuts. Hard to read them all at once, and help. ...............Curt
     
  13. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    What if I go with 26 inch wheels my sets about 25 inches as a 700c
     
  14. curtisfox

    curtisfox Active Member

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  15. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    Which is most direct "yes you tell me can't avoid using jackshafts."

    Looking for an instant drop on solution even if I have to drop wheel size temporarily and change to a set of Bmx cranks.

    I just don't want her to look retarded.

    Tire profile, etc, how ever I don't care as long as that gai tambourine player stfu in my ride time...

    He just "cha cha-ing" away like ODALLA ON legend of Zelda ocarina of time -.-

    I'd take anything other then burning up my good clutch... or I could be hard headed order a bunch of clutches and swap as they burn out.

    As you can tell I'm running out of MOD room under the gas tank is pretty much all the room I have left I've already started frame drilling and going to have to go over certain spots with spot welds.
     
  16. curtisfox

    curtisfox Active Member

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    Do 24" wheels, do both wont look so bad. Price of one clutch you could get a jack shaft. Measure twice did a artificial on fixing clutches, do a search.
     
  17. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    Oh trust me I'm reading up on clutches as we speak...


    Do those options or buy a fancy clutch which will give me full control it's hard for me to part with my rims.

    I am here: http://www.hilliardextremeduty.com/infernokart/


    Right now.

    If it's as simple as clutch as master control I'll take that route...

    If it's not within range of one hundo then will work on cranks/wheels/Jack shafts.
     
  18. curtisfox

    curtisfox Active Member

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    No matter how good a clutch it will burn, pulling to hard. Jack shaft is needed. Burn, Burn, Burn ring of fire
     
  19. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Active Member

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    You have a very similar set up as far as the engine and the rear wheel sheave and clutch. The additional use with my own jack shaft setup has an additional reduction of about 2. 13 tooth clutch to a 28 tooth gear, then to about 2.5 inch on the adjustable diameter pulley and then 15 inch sheave. Anyway about 12.9:1 is OK, but less is trouble for a clutch even on level ground. I used to have 20:1 ratio, and even though slower, was good for hills since I ride off road. A newer used engine gets by on that 12.9:1 though. Getting my helmet cam videos up on a new thread soon.
     
    TheSignGuy likes this.
  20. TheSignGuy

    TheSignGuy Member

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    .xx.
    By far be belts dependable at this stage.....


    Even in rain the slippage is still far less... I still think the bike it's self needs re-gearing at the crank set.

    This would actually be beneficial to lock up in my opinion but I'll figure this stuff out to where I can adjust.

    Pen and paper.... "time.. homemade 3d schematic....
     

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