Briggs and Stratton Oiling mod (confrontation)

air250

air250

New Member
I have recently completed a B&S vertical shaft to horizontal shaft modification, was just wondering how it make sure I did it right and that I am not burning out my shafts. is there a smell or smoking that will occur if I did it wrong. also I was not able to change the flywheel and am still using the light weight aluminium one. if I am able to get it started will this wreck the engine or is is change just to make it easer to start. Thanks for your input for any one who posts. :)
 
I would get a connecting rod dipper from a horizontal shaft engine. If it is an integeral part of the cap, use the whole rod and cap.

The lightweight flywheel won't wreck the motor but it will wreck your hand and possibly the recoil starter when it kicks back.
 
i have made a dipper out of harden sheet metal it looks like a c and kinda strays from the original. i felt that it should be able to scoop more oil this way but do you think i should go back to the original design. also with the flywheel i use a drill (and broke a drill) in order to start it. but i am having some troubles getting it to idle could the fly wheel be part of this problem
 
ok so my dipper sucks i ran it for a little yesterday and it completely broke and caused the whole thing to come to a halt. my jb welding started to melt inside and mess every thing up so i guess my c destine is a bust. im going to try to make one that resembles the original dipper and see how that works. still stuck on the flywheel situation above so if any one wants to comment on that thanks
 
Yes, the light flywheel will make it almost impossible to idle. I'm sure there must be a way to mount some kind of steel ring around the outside of the fly wheel to increase the rotating mass, or make up some sort of flywheel to mount onto the other end of the crankshaft. Persistence will pay off in the end.
 
Last edited:
How would it work if one would make a disc out of say 3/8" steel and put it on the drive side behind the clutch or pully?
You would have to balance it but a blade balancer would do it
 
Ok thanks. ill try to figure some thing out i may try to pack it with led to give it some mote weigh or ill try the disk thing
 
It would be much easier and safer to just get a cast iron flywheel. They used them on lawn edgers and snowblowers and waterpump engines. There's got to be plenty of them all over the world.
 
How about this take a equal amount of lead,drill and tap a couple of holes one on eather side of the flywheel between the fins and bolt the lead inbewteen. Maybe pour some lead into a mold with a small metal sleve for the bolt to grip better......Just my though...............Curt
 
wayne z said:
It would be much easier and safer to just get a cast iron flywheel. They used them on lawn edgers and snowblowers and waterpump engines. There's got to be plenty of them all over the world.
Click to expand...

True but sometimes not so easy to find when you need one. Unless you are willing to waite for one to be shiped..........Curt
 
I wouldn't advise bolting counterweights or drilling the flywheel. Stock flywheels have been known to explode when the engine is overrevved. That's why the kart racers use special billet flywheels. The bolted counterweights would scare me. The bolts would be loaded in shear, and high centrifugal forces could weaken them or the aluminum threads, not to mention the possible weakening of the flywheel from drilling.
 
I found some fly wheels on ebay that may b worth looking in to but I'm not sure which one to get, I have already tried one from a 5hp B&S vertical shaft that was on a mulcher but it was too big so im posing some links of some of the ones im looking at if you could give input as to which one you recommend.

This is the one i have:
BRIGGS & STRATTON DIAMOND & QUANTUM ALUMINUM FLYWHEEL | eBay
Choice 1:
NEW Briggs & Stratton Flywheel magneto # 296884 part parts original vintage | eBay
Choice 2:
BRIGGS AND STRATTON MODEL 142302-502064 FLYWHEEL | eBay
Choice 3:
Briggs and & Stratton Engine Flywheel Lawn Mower Tiller | eBay
 
I think im going to scrap the idea of adding weights and just bye one (im trying to build bike not a death trap :p ) thanks for the info wayne
 
Last edited:
wayne z said:
I wouldn't advise bolting counterweights or drilling the flywheel. Stock flywheels have been known to explode when the engine is overrevved. That's why the kart racers use special billet flywheels. The bolted counterweights would scare me. The bolts would be loaded in shear, and high centrifugal forces could weaken them or the aluminum threads, not to mention the possible weakening of the flywheel from drilling.
Click to expand...

I gues I am just an old fart didn't think of overreving. When I was a kid I overreved a motor bike engine and it flatend the crank. Didn't know they were that week, seen them crack on lawnmowers never blow apart.........Curt
 
If you don't plan on souping up the engine to run over about 4200 rpm, the stock one on ebay would be fine. I don't know if # 2 has the right part # or not . #3 sez for 8 hp surely won't work. Do yer homework and research. Find the rightpart number and make inquireys with the seller.
 
Last edited:
Whew! The bay for a stock lawnmower flywheel???
Donchall got scrap metal yards there?
There's always a dozen small engines every time I go to our local scrap metal/salvage yard.
...true, most of em are vertical shaft mowers, but it's only a matter of time til the right compatible briggs will show up... (I think) lol
5 or 6 bucks for a blown engine should be abt right...
Good luck with your project.
rc
 
If you can figure a way to change the timing a few degrees, the engine would idle smoother. If the engine is larger than 2 horse, then about 1/4 th throttle is all that you will need unless you go off road. I have a 13 horse and the thing fires about 10 or 15 degrees before the piston gets to the top and when it does, look out. You might check around the neighbor hood for a treadmill, the wife's treadmill had (had ) a heavy flywheel on the 1 and 1/2 horse electric motor with a pulley.
 
The easiest way to alter the timing may be by increasing/ decreasing the ignition point gap (that's assuming you have an engine with points and coil ignition) The larger the gap the more advanced the timing...for example, if you wanted to retard the timing you could decrease the point gap from the std 0.020" to say 0.015". You will lose power, but it might be easier to start and idle. If you have electronic ignition, you would ether have to make an offset flywheel key, or adjust the coil mounting arrangement.
 
Ummmm.... im new to this and that went right over my head i found the part number for the fly wheel that i would need its 394066 i think and now i have to find some one who is selling this part
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top