Bouncing around solution found for gearing?

TheSignGuy

Member
Nov 24, 2014
452
7
18
seattle, wa
Hello so I have found a solution to make my 3HP go 30 mph,

Instead of then shaft idea provided by Dave which involved:

Using several Jack shafts "A 12t clutch sprocket to a 24t Jack shaft to 10 Jack shaft over to a 47 rear sprocket."

I have found a cheaper format option which involves a 10t centrifugal clutch (instead of keeping my 12t)

Installing a 80t rear motorcycle sprocket which will give me accurate specs as listed:


note here is a before and after problem pre calculated due to there are no 110t sprockets.



Screenshot_20170713-092038.png
Screenshot_20170713-092044.png

This is before considering Jack shaft considering....


There is no such thing as a 110t rear sprocket which cannot be valid without Jack shafting.



Here is after playing/lowering clutch tooth range....

Screenshot_20170714-203815.png



This is the correct and slightly available option as listed that will work for my bike without destroying the bike paint with a bunch of sloppy WA STATE CHEAP WELDS

My main concern at the time is the rack has a bit of play in it would it be wise to get a light steel sheet plate welded over the sites of the rack to the frame to take out the play access?


It already needs a paint job so before welding I will have it grinded down in that area and have a paint shop fix the raw weld color area.



In addition, HOW do I true a wheel I heard if it wobbles left you adjust the right side by tightening 1/4 at a time and loosen the opposing side.


Wobbly rack front ant side view.
IMAG0111.jpg

IMAG0109.jpg


Also take note where the "triangle like sides of the rack are that's where I feel a half sheet of steel would work best.
 

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5-7HEAVEN

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2008
2,504
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If you're lucky enough to align the engine just right, you will need only one jackshaft.

The bearing mounts supporting the jackshaft can be welded or bolted onto the engine mounting plate.

It seems like the ratio you're seeking is 9:1.

90t/10t = 9:1.....
24t/12t x 45t/10t = 9:1.....
9" pulley/1" pulley = 9:1.....
13.5" pulley/1.5" pulley = 9:1.....

You can use either sprockets or pulleys, or a mix of both.

4" jack pulley/2" crank pulley x 45t/10t = 9:1.....

Whichever setup you build, I'd advise replacing or bolting on sturdier struts for the rack.

I hope your brakes, tires and rims are up to snuff.
 

TheSignGuy

Member
Nov 24, 2014
452
7
18
seattle, wa
If you're lucky enough to align the engine just right, you will need only one jackshaft.

The bearing mounts supporting the jackshaft can be welded or bolted onto the engine mounting plate.

It seems like the ratio you're seeking is 9:1.

90t/10t = 9:1.....
24t/12t x 45t/10t = 9:1.....
9" pulley/1" pulley = 9:1.....
13.5" pulley/1.5" pulley = 9:1.....

You can use either sprockets or pulleys, or a mix of both.

4" jack pulley/2" crank pulley x 45t/10t = 9:1.....

Whichever setup you build, I'd advise replacing or bolting on sturdier struts for the rack.

I hope your brakes, tires and rims are up to snuff.

Good look, well which ever is the easiest I'd like half and half but really want avoid welding on the frame.

Could do a long swing arm direct to pulleys that will simulate a clutch lock in and unlock when coming to a stop.


Problem with pullies how do I mount a pulley to a rim? That would give me Max optimization, if I want to haul add just swap the pulley at the rear end.

I also have a nexus internal shifting hub it's kind of fat compared to a Schwinn choppers hub.

As shown below either way I run into demsional problems too high speed problems or over budget.

IMAG0112.jpg



Look thru the spokes on the left hand side it's a (fat body shell)

The only way to get that exact ratio is by either style as it a quick swap.


Call me lazy but Jack shaft is by far the most on expenses.

Direct pulley sizing, wizzer style involves drilling in the edge of the rim, and if I use a the standard 12t clutch I'll be well over 30mph unless I have a 90t sprocket at the rear wheel with the throttle stop set to 2650rpm so the clutch can lockup leaving 950rpm left over.


I've read info on my #35 chain 12t Max torque clutch has to be 2300 rpm to engage and 2600rpm to lock up to prevent early clutch failure.


So that means the rear sprocket would only have to meet 80-90t ant fit a #35 chain.
 

5-7HEAVEN

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2008
2,504
136
63
You need to do more research into these forums.

What you're contemplating doing has been done before.

From the questions you've been asking, I believe this install is beyond your skills.

I believe you're looking for a cheap install.

My suggestion is to find someone who can install this engine for cheap.

Just pay the guy.

No offense, my friend.
 

TheSignGuy

Member
Nov 24, 2014
452
7
18
seattle, wa
You need to do more research into these forums.

What you're contemplating doing has been done before.

From the questions you've been asking, I believe this install is beyond your skills.

I believe you're looking for a cheap install.

My suggestion is to find someone who can install this engine for cheap.

Just pay the guy.

No offense, my friend.
Ohhh trust me haha

Trust me I'm capable, just don't have tools in that department.

Before I give to a middle man, I'll do it all my self, I feel that in the long run its more about spending $50 on an old welder.


At the end of the day, if I get parts correct sized perfectly and can get away for a whole 24h by my self would go totally much easier...


""Man time""


This is what I'll do provide a "one time run clip on first official full build" if any problems occur we will Adrea's them then. (Later)
 

TheSignGuy

Member
Nov 24, 2014
452
7
18
seattle, wa
Ok. As strangers, we don't know each other's capabilities.

I apologize.
No offense taken, just seeking better builds I got to a close hit on the sprocket side 135t-145t but that's to high toot I've been checking the motorcycle side of Craigslist.. @ 3600rpm with higher tooth listed above would only be about 23-25 mph with a 80-90 tooth the throttle stop comes into play putting me at 30.9mph to 31mph with 950rpm remaining @ 2650 throttle stopped...

"Takes 2300 to engage the clutch and 2600 to lock the clutch up."



Looking to hit the target with no additives such as jackshaft kits.
 
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xseler

Well-Known Member
Apr 14, 2013
2,883
126
63
OKC, OK
How about mounting a 20" bicycle rim to your rear spokes, then use a serpentine belt as the drive? Would be easy to use your 'lever clutch' with an idler pulley attached. Would be much quieter without most of the alignment issues associated with a chain drive.

Best of luck with your build!
 
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TheSignGuy

Member
Nov 24, 2014
452
7
18
seattle, wa
How about mounting a 20" bicycle rim to your rear spokes, then use a serpentine belt as the drive? Would be easy to use your 'lever clutch' with an idler pulley attached. Would be much quieter without most of the alignment issues associated with a chain drive.

Best of luck with your build!

Does that require a special rim or drilling? I like belt drive idea but must go 30 flat.... must resist slippage during rain season.


This is one reason I'd prefer chain.... Washington rain will spit on a belt drive and watch you fail.

Then go sunny and screech to ****...


An old Winnebago dash shifter would work perfect for a clutch...


I'd rather have a raggity v belt snap then to go against the grain of the bike but I doubt I could fit a rim between my frame but would be more cost effective, to go v belt clutch so I won't have to control anything but the throttle.

The best option to fight against weather is Harley's flat ridged timing belt drive style system.

But it would be safer to go with v belt style cause would lower theft chance.
 
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