watt...do you have spark...blue to blue...blk to blk...nothing else connected...wht capped...lift up the rear wheel...turn the pedals...take off the plug wire...hold it close to plug...is there a spark...i hate to say this, but i'm starting to see what you are saying...ha...if you hook up the white wire to the wire on the kill switch and and ground the other wire...the white has low voltage but its bypassing the cdi...but the kill switch has to be wired to the blue wire...you might get some spark...????i got to stop here...nuts...go see if you have spark...if you do...everything is ok...
Bike Only Starts When Killswitch Is Held In
- Thread starter Watts
- Start date
Any other way to test for spark, as I don't think I am that ambidextrous that I can lift bike while moving pedals and holding spark plug wire cap close to spark plug while pedalling and holding bike tire up.
I dont mind trying things but I am getting tired, can you explain what your logic is behind me doing this? Will it help determine which wire is bad?? Or will it just lead us to , hmm didnt work weird..still need white wire connected hmm. Remember I have tried all wired setups other than connecting white to blue or black and none would get motor moving, so even if its getting a spark in that setup I still cannot go forward.
Keep in mind I have tried 5 differnet wired setups in the last day, take bike inside lifiting 160lbs , adjust setup, likf outside, no luck. .....all over again 5 times.
Is there anyway that the CDI may be looking for that white wires signal? Or any way that the CDI wire cap to the spark plug is bad? I know basic wiring but have no clue whats inside that little black box aside from what I can imagine is a power cell and chipboard (programmed board)?!
Thanks
Watts
I dont mind trying things but I am getting tired, can you explain what your logic is behind me doing this? Will it help determine which wire is bad?? Or will it just lead us to , hmm didnt work weird..still need white wire connected hmm. Remember I have tried all wired setups other than connecting white to blue or black and none would get motor moving, so even if its getting a spark in that setup I still cannot go forward.
Keep in mind I have tried 5 differnet wired setups in the last day, take bike inside lifiting 160lbs , adjust setup, likf outside, no luck. .....all over again 5 times.
Is there anyway that the CDI may be looking for that white wires signal? Or any way that the CDI wire cap to the spark plug is bad? I know basic wiring but have no clue whats inside that little black box aside from what I can imagine is a power cell and chipboard (programmed board)?!
Thanks
Watts
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hi...golf was good...now to answer your????if you have spark with blue to blue...blk to blk...everthing is fine....since you are getting spark with the wht wire we can eliminate the magneto...now if you are not getting spark blue to blue...blk to blk...than i would say its the cdi....does that answer your ?????Dennis
just skimmed through this thread real quick, found this diagram on here it may help :
http://motorbicycling.com/attachmen...idea-ive-ever-had-electrical-diagram-copy.jpg make sure wires are crimped well (the connectors that come with these kits are no good) , and dont use the optional method (didnt work as well for me) the white/ gray wire coming from the motor is supposed to be for a low wattage light or accessory.
http://motorbicycling.com/attachmen...idea-ive-ever-had-electrical-diagram-copy.jpg make sure wires are crimped well (the connectors that come with these kits are no good) , and dont use the optional method (didnt work as well for me) the white/ gray wire coming from the motor is supposed to be for a low wattage light or accessory.
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Dennis, that makes sense and I will definetly try that immediatly when I have another person to hold the bike up for me. And if its able to help us determine if the CDI or even Magneto are bad that would be great...that way I know what part to replace.
I took the bike out again and tried giving it a go with the (blue to blue) and (black to black) and (orange to blue) and (green to frame ground)...the bike starts the engine fine....does this mean spark plug is working? Also it keeps the engine going for like 30-50 seconds...and if I hold in the clutch I hear no noise from the motor whatsoever then i release the clutch and the motor starts up making its noise but will not move forward...so the motor is running just the chain is not being pulled forward (throttle issue) main jet needle issue?.
I notice that the cable from my twist throttle is comming loose from where it connects to the handlebar and is also pulling a few centimeters of the throttle cable out of the top of the motor. How do i tighten this, seems like throttle is not giving it gas. How does this throttle work..by twisting the throttle it pulls the cable and lifts up the main jet needle to allow more gas right?
Seems like this could be an issue thats preventing it from running hence why the only time I got the bike to move forward is with the killswitch? ANy ideas.
Dennis chrisE mentioned to ensure you have these wires crimped properly, they currently have little circular metal connectors at the end of the wires that go into another metal hook type housing with a left and right side and covered with a plastic cover to protect the connection from getting wet.
Is that properly crimped, when I tape off my white wire is it not fine to just put a plastic nub over the wire and tape it so it doesnt connect to anything or should I crimp that as well in a special manner? Also am I wrong to think that you could just twist the wires together and tape them without crimping?
Also wanted to ask I notice in the diagram that shows how to connect the killswitch and wiring shows a ground at the bottom for the black wire but then it says top right corner that black grounds internally in engine? is this correct or should i have a splice from the black wire going to the frame to ground?
Thanks again guys, will try soon and let you know my findings.
Watts
I took the bike out again and tried giving it a go with the (blue to blue) and (black to black) and (orange to blue) and (green to frame ground)...the bike starts the engine fine....does this mean spark plug is working? Also it keeps the engine going for like 30-50 seconds...and if I hold in the clutch I hear no noise from the motor whatsoever then i release the clutch and the motor starts up making its noise but will not move forward...so the motor is running just the chain is not being pulled forward (throttle issue) main jet needle issue?.
I notice that the cable from my twist throttle is comming loose from where it connects to the handlebar and is also pulling a few centimeters of the throttle cable out of the top of the motor. How do i tighten this, seems like throttle is not giving it gas. How does this throttle work..by twisting the throttle it pulls the cable and lifts up the main jet needle to allow more gas right?
Seems like this could be an issue thats preventing it from running hence why the only time I got the bike to move forward is with the killswitch? ANy ideas.
Dennis chrisE mentioned to ensure you have these wires crimped properly, they currently have little circular metal connectors at the end of the wires that go into another metal hook type housing with a left and right side and covered with a plastic cover to protect the connection from getting wet.
Is that properly crimped, when I tape off my white wire is it not fine to just put a plastic nub over the wire and tape it so it doesnt connect to anything or should I crimp that as well in a special manner? Also am I wrong to think that you could just twist the wires together and tape them without crimping?
Also wanted to ask I notice in the diagram that shows how to connect the killswitch and wiring shows a ground at the bottom for the black wire but then it says top right corner that black grounds internally in engine? is this correct or should i have a splice from the black wire going to the frame to ground?
Thanks again guys, will try soon and let you know my findings.
Watts
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Tried the wire setups again, and only way to get bike moving forward is to connect white wire from engine to yellow wire on kill switch and green grounded to frame and to have blue from engine to blue on CDI and black from engine to black on CDI. But I have to hold down the killswitch while applying throttle.
Just curious why noone has responded or mentioned to try to connect the white wire to either the blue or black on the CDI or engine (splice?)? Is this a big no-no could it fry the CDI? If not is it worth a try given the only way I can have the bike moving forward is to connect the white wire to something??
Also when running in this setup after about 5 min of riding the spark plug is real hot, is this normal??
Thanks
Sean
Watts
Just curious why noone has responded or mentioned to try to connect the white wire to either the blue or black on the CDI or engine (splice?)? Is this a big no-no could it fry the CDI? If not is it worth a try given the only way I can have the bike moving forward is to connect the white wire to something??
Also when running in this setup after about 5 min of riding the spark plug is real hot, is this normal??
Thanks
Sean
Watts
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the blk from engine is a ground...blue from engine is power wire...the white is low voltage power wire...FOLLOW THE DIAGRAM .....now take the green wire wich is your ground wire from the kill switch and connect it to the blk wire from the cdi(ground)....you might not be getting a good ground connected to the bike....now go out and pedal and see if it starts....one more question...does your bike move without pulling in the clutch?
Here's what I would do....if it runs with the kill switch held down, replace the kill switch with an on/off type switch and ride the bike.
I'm working on an airplane today that the guy has "fixed" several times by screwing around with stuff that he shouldn't have been, and has no understanding of what he's working on either.
It's going to cost him dearly to fix something that wasn't broken in the first place. Guess he should have read my signature...
It's going to cost him dearly to fix something that wasn't broken in the first place. Guess he should have read my signature...
You guys are right, I should just get a toggle switch and ride it. Just it would be kinda nice to know if its my magneto or my CDI that has the short/odd wiring.
Kinda of a weird wiring problem, I wonder if anyone else comes across it or furthermore what the other fellows findings on this forum that had the same problem earlier.
Thanks for everyones quick responses to my inquiries, you guys have been great in sharing your time and information...so thanks everyone once again. I am getting more patient with this process as I have come to learn there some times can be numerous variables.
Hopefully the toggle switch I pick up will work well. I will then have to disconnect the 2 wires from the killswitchs red button switch and rewire to the new toggle switch. Any recommends on best way to wire, or good type toggle switches to use?
Thanks
Watts
Kinda of a weird wiring problem, I wonder if anyone else comes across it or furthermore what the other fellows findings on this forum that had the same problem earlier.
Thanks for everyones quick responses to my inquiries, you guys have been great in sharing your time and information...so thanks everyone once again. I am getting more patient with this process as I have come to learn there some times can be numerous variables.
Hopefully the toggle switch I pick up will work well. I will then have to disconnect the 2 wires from the killswitchs red button switch and rewire to the new toggle switch. Any recommends on best way to wire, or good type toggle switches to use?
Thanks
Watts
Nougat, yeah I think it must be a magneto or blue wire shortage issue. I notice you mentioned to try connecting the white wire to the blue on the CDI, my only question is that right now I have the killswitch orange set to the magnetos white and the killswitch grren grounded to the frame...so given that the killswitch is not connected directly to the wiring on the CDI how is it giving the CDI the extra current? Through the magneto??
Holding kill switch down no longer keeps the bike moving forward, looks like im going out to buy a new magneto , kill switch, and CDI. Also tried white spliced to blue..no luck.
Thanks
Watts
Holding kill switch down no longer keeps the bike moving forward, looks like im going out to buy a new magneto , kill switch, and CDI. Also tried white spliced to blue..no luck.
Thanks
Watts
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A Toggle switch with 2 connections, just a standard on & off toggle switch, hope you get it figured out..
This was my advice on PAGE #1 but I guess was soon forgotten or something, who knows....this thread is frustrating me and I'm not even having the problem....LOL!
Mapbike, you are right. I should have done what you said in the post on the first page in regards to the toggle witch. But alas I tried so many different things that it led to screwing my mag even more.
Live and learn..at least everybody was here to help and support and offer many good ideas.
Thanks
Watts
Live and learn..at least everybody was here to help and support and offer many good ideas.
Thanks
Watts
i had the same problem with the kill switch and what it is is that you have your wiring wrong from your cdi to your magneto. You need to connect the two blue wires and then the two black get connected to the white and you should be all good. As far as the popping sound i would check my exhaust gasket where it meets engine it sounds like your not sealed very well. hope this helps to get you back out there