Belt final drive for EZM Qmatic

GoldenMotor.com

curtisfox

Well-Known Member
Dec 29, 2008
6,082
4,059
113
minesota
Belt guides around the outside of the primary drive pulley and driven pulley?

To keep the slack belt form grabbing when the idler pulley clutch is activated?

I kind of figured it would be required. Much like a idler pulley clutch on a riding lawn mower has on the drive pulley.
You got,and don't take much just a couple pin like on the lawn tractors have. Mostly up around the engine pulley,like you say keep it from grading ............Curt
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
I saw that and found a source for about ten bucks less also on Ebay. The thing is, it would be nice if all that was needed was the pulley itself and that the sprocket could come off and put the pulley in it's place. I don't want to buy anything I either don't need or which is not going to work due to size or something or other. I'd like to hear from the guys at Q matic and know what I was buying would work. If it had never been done before, then it would be okay to experiment and guess at what would work. But someone knows exactly what I need and can tell me.
SB
 

curtisfox

Well-Known Member
Dec 29, 2008
6,082
4,059
113
minesota
That's what you are trying to do misunderstood, it's been done but forgot who. What was done is ground the teeth off and got a weld together pulley from farm supply and fit it over the teeth. Farm supply pulleys have a large center that the hubs weld into. ................Curt
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Curt,
This is something that has been done by EZM who make the Q-matic transmission. They mention the conversion on their website but give no details. What comes with the Q-matic is a Max torque clutch with sprocket. What is not clear is if just the sprocket and pulley are switched or if they are two different clutches. That's what I want to know, and if I can buy the correct pulley without having to purchase another whole clutch.
What you describe might be a possible course to follow... don't know.
SB
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Pictured below is the original clutch that was on a Tecumseh H5 back when it was running a snow blower. It is not the same as the max torque clutch on the Q-matic, but similar enough for our purposes. The outer part of the clutch where you see a sort of bell and sprocket... this is one piece and is held on to the rest of the clutch by a little C clip. From the back side you can see the inner part of the clutch where the important stuff happens. You can see a couple of springs in there and a couple of shoes. When the engine is up to speed centrifugal force pushes the shoes out against the bell, the bell spins around and so does the sprocket which is part of the bell... and from there the chain goes to the final drive sprocket and off you go.

It works the same way whether it is a sprocket or a pulley at the bell. Max torque sells two basic versions of their automatic clutch, one with a sprocket and the other pulley. From studying their web site it appears to be the same clutch otherwise. My inquiries to EZM is to see if the bell with pulley is available by itself, or if you have to buy another whole clutch (at $60.00+ with shipping from ebay). Seems a shame to buy another clutch when the one I have works fine, just doesn't have the pulley.

What Curtis is talking about is a way of removing the sprocket and welding a pulley in its place. I'm not familiar with the kind of pulley he's talking about, but there is such a thing at farm/tractor supply outfits. If I can find a link to one, I'll post it. So this is an alternative way of coming up with the pulley version of the clutch for less money but more labor. Curt mentioned cutting down the sprocket teeth on a lathe (which I don't have) but maybe they could also be ground off. And probably anyone with a welder could affix the pulley to the clutch. Curt has offered to do this for me if I send him my clutch which I very much appreciate, but am reluctant to impose as I know he has his own projects. If the clutch bell with pulley is available by itself I'll go that route. If not, then it will no doubt be a do it yourself project. Once you have the bell with pulley if the clutch ever wears out you could just by the less expensive sprocket version to replace it since you already have a bell with pulley. That's good!

Thank you, Curtis, for giving a way around the problem...
SB
 

Attachments

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
I found a 3" pulley of the weld on type for $12.00 including shipping, but will check with my local tractor/fleet supply to see if they have something in stock.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WELD-ON-V-B...950?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aa0aa17d6

I'm also thinking that I may do this conversion on the clutch pictured in the last post as it has the same shaft size (5/8) and with steel shoes should hold up well.
SB