attempt #3

[lambofgod121980]

Mine sounds very similar to the second bike. Both of your bikes are sik btw \m/ do I need to keep the baffle plate, or just drilling holes is better? And ill def be trashing anything I find inside that's not absolutly needed to make the engine run. I'm not looking to do 50 just would like to see 30 other than going down hill or least get it to wind out a little better

 

[dragray]

whoops. i wrote that my lowrider has a 66cc on it by mistake. It has a 49 cc on it.

 

[dragray]

Mine sounds very similar to the second bike. Both of your bikes are sik btw \m/ do I need to keep the baffle plate, or just drilling holes is better? And ill def be trashing anything I find inside that's not absolutly needed to make the engine run. I'm not looking to do 50 just would like to see 30 other than going down hill or least get it to wind out a little better

here's what the baffle (the long tube) the end cap and the baffle plate(disk) look like.

they are all welded together.
I drilled 2 holes just in the baffle plate (the disk) on the opposite side of the end caps exit hole.

here's what the cateletic thing in the muffler looks like.
it;s stuffed way up in the muffler by the head pipe, and on my mufflers it was held in place with a single screw that's accessable on the outside of the muffler. not sure if your has this, or if it's welded in or what.
but, all i did was take the screw out, and it fell out of the muffler.

I'm no expert on this, and there may be a better way, but this is what worked for me.

 

[lambofgod121980]

Ok - so I took my muffler apart and it looks nothing like yours except it had the cattalitic converter screen inside. The screen was what was making the noise inside. It was also smashed closed in a few spots. I took the cap off the end of the pipe and the screen out and ran it through my parents hood ( is like a 5 mile circle). Omg it was stoopid loud, and I liked the way it sounded. It blew the carb off while I was making the circle. I put it back on and then I blew the air cleaner off. Still never wound out. When I got back it I put the endcap back on and welded it and it made it quiet and still pretty much the same. Low- mid rpms ran great with absolutly no top end. Road is pretty much flat.
Also had the chain lock up and break. That part worked out great. Caused me to have to shorten the chain and I am now running no tensioner. I'm happy to have ditched that thing as it was quickly becoming a headache. I never made the complete 5 mile circle without breaking down and having to pedal back to the rents to repair it.
I'm still looking to figfure out how to get this thing wound out at least once. Oh and had spark plug boot blow apart a couple times. The small brass screw with spring inside kept popping out. I'm trying to find a way to prevent this.

 

[dragray]

ok...so when you try to go full throttle, does it feel like the engine is bogging down or like it's running out of gas?
or does it just get to a certain rpm and not climb anymore?
have you messed with the jet needle in the carb yet?
if not, pull the slide out of the carb (the jet needle is in the center of the carb).
remove the needle & drop the E clip that's on it, one notch.
this will raise the needle, and give you more fuel.
BUT, normally, changing the E clip setting will not affect full throttle...it usually only has an effect from idle to about 3/4 throttle.
you may have to re-jet your carb if you're getting a lean bog at wide open throttle.
it blew the carb off?
you may not have had it tight enough.
I have no idea why it would have blown the air filter off tho because they are held on with 2 screws. maybe the screws were loose and they vibrated out?

look at your cdi where the spark plug wire goes in.
some of them have the wire epoxied in and some don't.
try twisting the spark plug wire counter clock wise to loosen it.
the plug wire is just screwed onto a sheet metal screw inside the cdi.
if yours is not epoxied in (you should see the epoxy around the wire if it is) you can unscrew the wire. then get an automotive wire with a rubber boot and screw it back onto the screw in the cdi.
this will give you a better wire with a better boot (you will have to re-install the little screw on cap that goes on top of the spark plug because an automotive boot needs it to lock onto it.
if your wire is epoxied into the cdi, i'm pretty sure that you can cut away the epoxy, and i'm pretty sure that it will still have the scew inside that the wire screws onto.
you may also want to upgrade to an ngk spark plug (B6HS) if you haven't done that yet.

 

[nightcruiser]

...had the chain lock up and break. That part worked out great. Caused me to have to shorten the chain and I am now running no tensioner.... Oh and had spark plug boot blow apart a couple times....

Congrats on ditching the tensioner, the day I got rid of mine is the day I started liking my bike, cause I didn't have to wrench every ride any more!
The kit plug boot is just crap, brittle as he!!, you should just do away with it. Either buy a plug wire/boot from SickBikeParts.com or other source thats sells automotive style wires, or go to your local auto parts store and ask them to see their selection of single plug wires and pick something from there that will work. I have posted more details on how I repleaced mine many many times before, so if you search you should find it....

Plug/wire/boot/chain are 4 things in the kit that just need to be ditched and replaced, the tensioner should either be ditched and run without or buy/build a more effective designed tensioner. If you do the above you are going to miss out on a lot of the joy of constantly fixing your new MB....

 

[lambofgod121980]

Sorry - need to explain a few things better
1 - using a rt carb from that's dax not stock nt carb. Had problems with four stroking so I swapped for a different carb and fourstroking isn't a problem anymore.
2 - when I hold it wide open it climbs to mid rpms and stays in that range. I tried holding my hand over air cleaner a little ( kinda like choking it out a little and rpms dropped immediately. So its not running way lean.
3 - spark plug read is exactly where I think it should be. Nice chocolate color and not a oily mess. Was a problem before
4 - using the ngk plug, and a suposedly upgraded wire from that's dax. Strongly looking to snatch an 8mm car plug wire from a stash of car parts I have laying around
5- chain tensioner being gone is what I was aiming for from the get go. Wanted to make sure it was stretched all the way before taking off tensioner. Lost my chain quite a bit in the beginning

As far as the carb goes I have no idea how to adjust it. It came with a couple of jets but I have no idea how to change them out. It does look way better and also required the use of an off set intake to clear the frame. Not sure if intake makes a difference or not. I had the motor wind out with stock nt carb but it fourstroked its a$$ off wide open. Swapping them out isn't extremely complicated, but throttle cable is different too to accomadate the new carb

 

[nightcruiser]

...if your wire is epoxied into the cdi, i'm pretty sure that you can cut away the epoxy, and i'm pretty sure that it will still have the scew inside that the wire screws onto.

Mine was epoxied in, it was a PITA but I picked the rubber and glue out with small tools and there was a wood screw in there for the wire to thread down on just like yours. So the glue just makes the job a bit tough, not impossible.
I dont know what is being sold as an "upgrade" plug wire/boot, but I would just go with an automotive wire and be done with it....

 

[nightcruiser]

...As far as the carb goes I have no idea how to adjust it. It came with a couple of jets but I have no idea how to change them out. ......use of an off set intake to clear the frame. Not sure if intake makes a difference or not.

The offset intake can definately have an effect, usually negative. I think the rule of thumb is the shorter the intake the better? What kind of air filter are you running? A big cone style?

 

[lambofgod121980]

Carburetor RT 15mm High
Performance. **Fits F50, F60, F80,
and others. Shark 60mm intake and
Filter, Jet sizes 70, 75, and 80, Carb
Union Seal, High flow inlet with filter,
Semi Auto Choke, Square Slide, *
and more. .Only $29.99 .. Get em
while you can and Power up !!! *RT
type Carb cable required.

That's the description from the carb I have - you can see it on the link to thatsdax on the side. Its on parts page 1 near the bottom

 

[lambofgod121980]

Also shorter intake is not an option. My frame is super tight and the stock nt carb required me to take the airbox off to get it on and the outside of the box, once put back on was touching the seatpost tube on my frame - is a shame b/c I have 3 of the short intakes just sitting in a box that I can't use. I also have 2 extra heads that use the strait up spark plug b/c I am forced to use the slant head due to frame being so tight. On my next build ill be using a bigger framed bike$ I chose the frame I have now for this build b/c its what I had w/o buying a new bike. - my parents bought me the bike new in 93 and I never rode it. It ended up at the bottom of a junk pile at my parents house till bout 3 months ago when I discovered these kits to motorize bikes on ebay. The rest is history

 

[nightcruiser]

...I also have 2 extra heads that use the strait up spark plug b/c I am forced to use the slant head due to frame being so tight.

A rubber automotive plug boot is flexible and can make it on a plug that is much closer to the frame tube than the rigid boot that comes with the kit. My frame is almost too tight for the angle fire head, the stock boot wont fit but the rubber one does. As long as there is a little room between the plug and tube the rubber boot should fit... Just fyi...

 

[nightcruiser]

On the air filter... I see you have the clamp on style, and the one you have isn't particularly low profile...
When you pull the filter off the carb, are there screw holes to mount an air filter? If so, you may be able to run the same air filter I got from SickBikeParts.com pictured below. It is super low profile, its bigger around to allow the surface area for the filter so it doesn't have to be so deep. I don't know why they didn't do a side shot of that filter to show just how thin it is....
http://motorbicycling.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48234&d=1337802478

PS The forum wouldn't allow me to upload the above picture because I had uploaded it in a different thread already. Can anyone tell me how to attach an image to a post that has already been uploaded? This has been a source of frustration to me in this forum....

 

[lambofgod121980]

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1GcesQihc7-mm3hJGf7UPiqOaRXZ8ekUT99QUZq2qXXE/mobilebasic?pli=1
That's where I got my torque specs from and I followed most of the steps outlined here. No screw holes in my carb under the filter. Wouldmt really make a difference b/c carb itself with no air cleaner will fit w/o offset intake. I might try and build a custom intake but I don't want to experiment with that just yet. Would like to get bike smooth and right like it is before I tweak anything else hardware wise.
I have yet to figure out why it won't wind all the way out. Like I posted earlier, bike runs solid low through mid rpms and then stops climbing. Doesnt bog just kinda tops out. I am running 4oz oil to 1gal of gas. If I pedal while I'm riding rpms will increase but don't stay up, just gradually goes down back to mid rpm range.

 

[lambofgod121980]

WOoooOOOOooooohoooooooooooooo- I figured it out (with the help of the forums of course). Found out how to swap the jets out and omg I cannot be any happier than right now \m/ >.< \m/ swapped the 65 for the 70 and wow what a difference. Gained noticeable top end. Feels like 29+ I don't accually know cuz speedometer is broken. Cheap made thing that catches the spokes ( looked like dang tin foil) tore off. But feels stoopid faster and even when I back off the throttle just a bit from wide open, it stays at speed.

Next will be investment in an expansion chamber exhaust. I hear it boosts power even more. And don't get me wrong I like the way it is now. Climbs really decent, has decent top end. But if I dig it now and expansion chamber makes as much difference as the carb did.........
I'm off to window shop \m/

 

[dodge dude94]

tl;dr
What carb do you have? I am curious as mine runs lean...

 

[lambofgod121980]

I am running the rt carb from thatsdax. If you click on his page on the side where sponsors are and go to parts page 1 you can see a picture. Its towards the bottom of the page \m/ I love this carb - looks killer and solved a lot of problems I was having with four stroking. Also now that I've switched to the 70 jet it is way faster. Feels like 30+

 

[dodge dude94]

Cool.
I have the CNS carb, it annoys me, but mostly because i need to re-jet it. Runs way too lean. Where'd you get your jets from? Dax?

 

[lambofgod121980]

The jet I installed came with the carb when I bought it - think it came with 65 installed and had the 70 and 80 in the box. I know he also sells the jet kits too. Come with like 5 different sizes.
In my opinion the price he sells the carb for is ridiculous low and you would be a fool not to get one. The nt I had was great. Or so I thought till I got the rt difference is night and day. Motor runs smoother and breathes 100 percent better.

 

[dodge dude94]

Hmm, I guess I should consider that.
Would def. clean my bars up and make messing with the choke easier.