The best thing is that device you have been using that slips over the end of the shaft and I thought about it, but I did OK. Thanks for mentioning about center drills. I remember using the centering bits as suggested when I was at a monthly paid membership at a shop. I did start using them and may buy some for myself. My center punch I could maybe sharpen it and if I do it may do better. In the future I could have something hold the center punch (like a pliers) so my hand does not get smacked if I miss the punch with the hammer in the other hand! I was also thinking are there reasons for various angles or type of center punches? And I mean not just the ones with the springs in them. I had one that was not adjustable, but had a spring in it and someone I loaned it to took it apart. He said it was better that way without the spring. I'm not sure if he lost some of the parts to it. I tried to put it back together, but it did not work again with the spring. You have to careful who you allow to use your tools, but anyway it was less than $10, so a lesson learned there. For S&G's, I looked at the tip of the pilot bit I was using, that being a standard steel bit of smaller size under lighted magnifier lamp. I also did the same for the center punch pointed end and figured the dent in the metal by the center punch has to be as big or bigger than the pilot bit after using the punch on the metal surface. Then I came to realize I would probably with that hardened steel shaft, I would not have gotten a larger enough dent to have it work unless I went with a smaller pilot bit. Then successively using larger pilot bits. This worked before for me, but I guess I forgot. The Centering Bits you mentioned is basically the same thing but faster and less chance of bit wobbling. When I thought of the bits I had before, but could not find what they were called, I saw this, but they are not exactly what I had before used, that were a centering type bit. Lip and Spur Bit I looked up on the internet and found those bits are usually made for wood or only thin sheet metal. I however did see a places selling them that said steel, an am not sure they are for real. I never much buy from overseas for time to wait is long, but see this place is not in China, it say Britain. The shipping is more than the set. Just though price seems too good to be true. You know what the Post Master say about that! Maybe it could be OK but there are reviews I found that are bad. Funny how mostly rated at 1 or 2 of 5 stars rating. Then all others are mostly all 5 of 5 of which there are few in chronological order. Ebay has the same outfit selling these bits, but there they say they are for Wood. https://www.buysend.com/en-US/Produ...power-tools/&gclid=CP6D3-vn7dACFZNffgodVicIZA Then I found what I bought at Sears a long time ago and the set was worn out and were thrown out. But these are what I bought, DEWALT DW1263 14-Piece Cobalt Pilot Point Drill Bit Set. So I forget if the points wear out quick or not, I know only that for a while the bit centered nice. Then if they wore out the tip, then the drill bit if still sharp on all the other more important surfaces really did not matter, it was like the usual steel drill bit. https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW126...1481516819&sr=1-13&keywords=hss+drill+bit+set Well back to putting this bike together again. The chain breaker made in USA is really good so there is a new tool that will last and has replacement tip if I need to get another. It came with one extra and some kind of glue that you heat up to hold it in place after it cools. Maybe simple is better.