4G clutch bell bushing detonation.

industrialphreak

industrialphreak

Member
Well, Its probably my fault for this happening but for some reason the bushing keeps wanting to fly right on out of my clutch bell. I have the gearbox with open clutch bell with the dinky belt cover retaining bar thingy.

anyway i got the beast running this afternoon and i went for a few laps around the block with no issues so i ended up cruising around my local harbor freight strip mall a few blocks away and had a burger at one of the local grease buckets.

came out started my engine and took off, a few minutes later my belt housing wanted to come off. so i start gimping home and found this when i pulled my safety belt guide thing off.

Looks like my bushing came out and started to get chewed up by something.

whats the consensus of my fellow gear goonies?
 
destruction prawn commence.
 

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It appears you are missing the retaining washer, or you have one that's too small. The only thing holding your drum on is the front cover arm! Not good. Go to your local hardware store and get a 1/4" stainless fender washer.

You should prolly replace that bushing with a new Oilite one, they have a slightly larger OD and don't slip out of the clutch drum. They have to be tapped in there and tapped out.

I recommend getting 2-3 of em. The original 4G bushing is junk. McMaster-Carr Part# 6659K33
 
The_Aleman said:
It appears you are missing the retaining washer, or you have one that's too small. The only thing holding your drum on is the front cover arm! Not good. Go to your local hardware store and get a 1/4" stainless fender washer.

You should prolly replace that bushing with a new Oilite one, they have a slightly larger OD and don't slip out of the clutch drum. They have to be tapped in there and tapped out.

I recommend getting 2-3 of em. The original 4G bushing is junk. McMaster-Carr Part# 6659K33
Click to expand...

Tanks Aleman you saved my butt once again!

Thats something i originally tried with this nipple looking thing the screw went through it was way to tight but i had my clutch puck in their backwards. ill give it a whirl if i can find a replacement bushing here in town otherwise ill need to order from Stanton again.

It was a great ride today what a release, almost broke down sobbing after i fired my engine up for the first time in a few months.
 
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De nada, that's what the community is here for! lol

Back in May, I lost the retaining bolt, washer, and bushing spacer during a ride. I had removed the cover arms last year, so the only thing holding my clutch drum on was the belt! So I took a ride to Ace, found all the replacement parts to fix the problem, with a bit of blue Loctite on the retaining bolt for good measure.

The edges of the fender washer are slightly larger than the edge of the bushing flange. Also, sheeesh is my bike dirty!
 

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I am thinking about using this bushing.

2938T45 from that mcmaster-carr site.

its very nice to have micrometer let alone a digital one. ANy of you guys have issues displaying pictures in the forums on chromium/debian linux?
 
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yeah ale-man. thats not bad at all dirt wise, you should see my bottom bracket tons of crud on their. and that flexpipe is wicked for your muffler. what kind of frame you roxing? what part numbers for your bushings their?
 
You're completely missing the bushing spacer in that pic! There's supposed to be a metal spacer roughly 3/8" thick between the end of the PTO shaft and the end of the bushing flange. The bolt and retaining washer are what hold the clutch drum on.

I lost that spacer, so I used a nylon spacer from Ace and shaved down it's thickness a bit. You should get one immediately, not having the clutch drum secured properly will cause excessive bushing wear.

industrialphreak said:
here is the picture before my failure with the clutch puck backwards.
Click to expand...

Edit: I put the bushing part # in my first reply to you, and my frame is a Nirve Knuckle.
 
The_Aleman said:
You're completely missing the bushing spacer in that pic! There's supposed to be a metal spacer roughly 3/8" thick between the end of the PTO shaft and the end of the bushing flange. The bolt and retaining washer are what hold the clutch drum on.

I lost that spacer, so I used a nylon spacer from Ace and shaved down it's thickness a bit. You should get one immediately, not having the clutch drum secured properly will cause excessive bushing wear.



Edit: I put the bushing part # in my first reply to you, and my frame is a Nirve Knuckle.
Click to expand...


Tanks chief!
 
The_Aleman said:
You should prolly replace that bushing with a new Oilite one, they have a slightly larger OD and don't slip out of the clutch drum. They have to be tapped in there and tapped out.

I recommend getting 2-3 of em. The original 4G bushing is junk. McMaster-Carr Part# 6659K33
Click to expand...

Good info Aleman. I'm looking on picking up a G4, do you have an additional upgrade parts you recommend. I'm also planning on changing the clutch per Terry's video.
 
The bushing, clutch springs, clutch drum, and the output freewheel are the only problem areas I've heard of.

Bushing: solved with that McMaster-Carr Oilite one
Clutch Springs: solved with heavier 57-60lb ones
Clutch Drum: solved by welding or upgraded replacement
Output freewheel: solved by welding or solid sprocket

I have close to 3K miles on my 4G, and the only thing I haven't had to deal with yet is the freewheel. I'm still running the original belt, although it has over 50 cracks in it now. I carry a spare belt and belt cam tool just in case.

Despite the teething issues, I feel the Honda-style 4G is a great gearbox. Maybe the best China will ever offer.

Tahq said:
Good info Aleman. I'm looking on picking up a G4, do you have an additional upgrade parts you recommend. I'm also planning on changing the clutch per Terry's video.
Click to expand...
 
I just ordered two 6659K33 from mcmaster. they should be here overnight. crossing my fingers its going to be the correct part! and ill be back up and riding thursday.
 
mcmaster-carr was super fast, just got a call from my apartment manager. My package was just delivered. Dropped two of them in some 10w30 and i have a spare in hand in case i need one down the line.

Taking a look at this thing looks porous as **** and much much better grade then the stock 4G oillite bushing. i seriously cant wait to install it and go for a ride.

I saw that heated oil thread, but i do not thing my girl will be to happy with me putting a can of motor oil on our stove. going to play it safe and room temperature 24hr soak the beast.

here is some other stuff i found on the "sister-site" Oil Lite [Grubee 4G] bushing lube technique - MotoredBikes.com: Motorized Bicycle Forum
 
I have never soaked my new bushing, I put it on in March or April. Once a week (or every 100 miles), after a ride, I put a couple drops of Marvel Lubricating Oil across the hot bushing flange. If I remove the clutch drum, I put a drop or two on the shaft before reinstalling.

Mine will idle all day now. I had hot idling problems for the first 5 months after I built my bike and it turned out to be weak clutch springs and clutch shoe guide pin issues. There are 2 guide pins per shoe and they can work themselves loose. I pulled the looser ones, put a few drops of Gorilla Super Glue down the hole, then punched em back in.

That + some heavier clutch springs (like Century Springs #J-37) should absolve you of idle woes - as long as you remember to occasionally put some oil on the bushing flange. :D
 
sweet, ill throw in the new bearing first thing once morning break hits my eyes. I have a ton of stuff to do this weekend before heading in for my weekend shift.

so far i dont have any idling issues, knock on wood per say. thanks once again Aleman!
 
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