32:1 run-in

bighat

bighat

Member
First three engines ran in 16:1, shelved...out of commission...oil fouled plugs...Something to do with the fact I'm at sea level? Read on here somewhere (?) to run them in 32 or 40 to 1. This is what I've done with #4 (32:1) and going on 50 k's now, she's running in lean and clean. The plug is sweet and the slightest throttle adjustment puts her right in tune...Just like tuning a guitar. Well, just keep doing whatever works huh? Keep on learning and messing with it until it does..xx.
 
you really must not like your motor
fouled plug...just put in a new plug
break in needs MORE oil then a old motor
are MANY threads on this if you look
read them all and learn so you can make your own choice how you want to mix the oil for break in
 
Look I did and read, learnt, chose. Oil fouled plug means too much oil. I know that and I'm new. There are some conflicting advisements here even amongst you elite; but you are really mistaken if you think I must not like my motor. Thanks for chiming in though.
 
it also has to do with what oil your running
right now i use the walmart 2stroke oil and mix is 16-1 and i don't foul the plugs
after the fist couple tanks I switch to a racing motorcycle oil i can get from work that will be mixed 24-1
the opti 2 oil guys can safely run 100-1 mix
foulded plug is from running 2 rich not how much oil is in the mix normaly
you need to tune these motors to where you live and the mods you have done
 
32:1 is what is normaly used for break-in in the ultralight community, and 50-1 after.

We found out that too much oil (32:1) continuosly, caused pre-mature ring sticking from carbon buildup in the ring grooves, causing blowby and resultant heat would cause siezures.
I broke in and ran 6 different HT engines this way, and all the clients I sold them to are still running 50:1 mix.
Pennzoil air cooled was the most popular oil in the UL community. I've been using this mix in every 2 stroke machine I own for tha last 20 years. Haven't had any lube related issues yet.
Those old school rich oil mix was from the days when we had to use motor oil not engineered for 2 strokes.
 
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i doubt that the motors used in a ultralight have chrome coated cylinders
willing to bet they have castiron liners that hold the oil in the hone pattern much
better then a chromed cylinder ever could or will

comparing a rotax to a ht is like comparing a gold ingot to a cowpie
 
There isn't that much wrong with a chrome lined cylinder.
@Wayne- Good to know about 50:1. I wanted to use the tanaka 2 stroke oil for that but I thought the poor efficiency in these engines required more lubrication.

I've learned 24:1 for break in, 32:1 the rest of the time. Although Wayne appears to have a good experience doing 50:1 so I'll move to that as soon as I fix my freewheel.
 
Not a motorcycle company but plenty of small 2 stroke engines are still chrome lined. My point is that these engines wouldn't see a huge difference with an iron lined cylinder.

idk, maybe I am wrong. I certainly am not a professional in these matters. Chrome isn't particularly good at dissipating heat either. I just wish there was a high quality 2 stroke kit that we could buy. Morini's and dax's new engine for sure, but the hardest part of those is the fabrication of mounts.

afgkljahfg. I just want my wheel to be fixed so I can ride again -.-
 
Ibedayank said:
i doubt that the motors used in a ultralight have chrome coated cylinders
willing to bet they have castiron liners that hold the oil in the hone pattern much
better then a chromed cylinder ever could or will

comparing a rotax to a ht is like comparing a gold ingot to a cowpie
Click to expand...

Rotax have iron liners, Hirth has nickasil, Mcculough and some others used chromed cylinders. All of these cylinders do have crosshatch.

They all seemed to like the 50-1 although some ppl did feel better with 40:1

If A high performance engine like Rotax can run nearly full throttle all it's life on 50:1, some of them reach 1200 hrs, then I see no reason why a low performance HT couldn't survive on it.

Rotax's aint that great of an engine though, Many QC problems. At the factory, the internal parts are roughly and carelessly handled after they are manufactured.
Sometimes the cranks were miss aligned, prolly from the way they would casualy toss them into bins atop the others after assembly. and inferior seals were sometimes used .Some of then would crap out at 25 to 50 hours.
 
rotax motors used to be the cats meow in snowmobiles .... sad to see them flush another company down the crapper
 
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