26 in 6 speed, + motor sprocket... Need one nowww

[darrick]

Hi
Im looking to buy a 26 x 2.125 wheel, with 6 speed gears already installed, and preferably a built-in motor-side sprocket. My rear wheel's spokes got eaten up by the motor chain slipping off the tensioner (redundant problem I know), and got warped just to the point of unsusability.
do Any of the dealers on the sidebars of this site sell something that extensive? or is that just too much to ask for =/

getting tired of messing with wheels..and just want my bike back on the road =-||

 

[darrick]

seriously? no one? =(

 

[adb140275]

get a manic mechanic sprocket and adapter, and a new wheel, install your cassette on the new wheel...

 

[KCvale]

Hi
Im looking to buy a 26 x 2.125 wheel, with 6 speed gears already installed, and preferably a built-in motor-side sprocket.

Check you local Cragislist.org listings under bikes.
You might be able to buy a whole bike with the back wheel you want for less than fixing your wheel or buying just a whole new one.

But why are you using a motor side tensioner when your pedal side already has one? Is it a frame issue preventing you from just running your drive chain direct and letting the derailer tensioner make up the chain difference?

 

[adb140275]

drive chain gets loose, comes off. garbage chinese chain stretches too much. So yes, running a derailleur bike without a motor side tensioner IS an issue, as you cannot move the rear wheel back to take up the difference. I ran my MTB without a tensioner, chain only stayed right for 10 miles before stretching and jumping. You basically NEED a tensioner on a mountain bike, you cannot move the engine or the wheel.

 

[KCvale]

Like I asked derrik, was it a frame issue?
Horizontal drop-outs opposed to vertical are tough, but not impossible.

We can banter chains first ;-}

Though we call it stretch, chains don't stretch.
Sprockets break in with wear, especially initial wear, and so do the link pins (that the sprocket moves) on cheap chains.
That is why the first 10-20 miles of a new ride is so crucial.

I find the sprocket and kit chain in the Grubee's to be pretty good, by good I mean reading tip posts about other kits rear sprocket and how you need to knock cast off it, grind it, etc. Pfffttt. That is just flat a garbage sprocket.

Though the grubee chains are pretty good I generally just use them to break in the rear sprocket, and put on a good 410 HD Z-Chain and keep the kit chain for a spare.

A trip or two around the block with the HD and you get it just right and not have to mess with it for many miles. When you so then it is just a little shim or two between the rear motor mount block and motor to take up the slack if you have vertical dropouts. It doesn't take much with a quality chain.

Good chain and no tensioner vs. crap chain and sprocket plus a tensioner?

This topic was about the tensioner ripping up a wheel.
Sadly this site is riddled with them.
It is fun to banter about sprockets and chains though ;-}

I just make it a point to stress that if at all possible don't put ANYTHING in the motor to drive sprocket chain path, especially something like the kit tensioner on the round tapering chain stay right in the path of the spokes if it moves!

Granted it is not as dramatic as keeping your gas can next to you gas water heater, but almost as easy to resolve and avoid the potential danger completely.