1st build and I seek guidance and wisdom.

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Chris Doe

New Member
Jul 25, 2022
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Hello all I would like to start by saying thank you! These forums have been really helpful and the collective knowledge is impressive to say the least.

With some help from youtube and these forums I have recently built my first motorized bicycle. Although I am new to these 2 stroke motors I am no stranger to mechanics. I have been a backyard mechanic for over 15 years and studied automotive technologies at a 2 year vocational school. However my experience with carburators is limited as most of the vehicles I have owned or repaired have been fuel injected. But enough about me and on to the bike.

I have a 26" Huffy Lockland with a 100cc 2 stroke motor I bought from ebay. Both the intake and exhaust ports are 40mm. I keep forgetting to measure piston but according to the listing it should be 50mm. It has the NT speed carb, speed demon exhaust and a 3 prong spark plug. Im currently running the stock 44t sprocket with rag joint and both the stock 4-bolt tensioner as well as a spring tensioner. The sole purpose of adding spring tensioner was to stretch the chain with as little adjustment and work as possible. The bike is just shy of 200 miles and I have not had to remove any links since fitting the chain, and have had zero chain issues. So I'd say it worked quite well! I do have a clam shell adapter to replace the rag joint and plan on deleting the extra tensioner and refitting the chain. I have a 38t sprocket that came with clam shell that would be easiest to install but I'm not sure if it will give me enough torque. I believe it will but I have a throttle issue that keeps coming back I want to iron out before choosing which sprocket to go with.

So finally the reason for posting, THE ISSUES! The biggest issue im having is the bike will run fine while accelerating but if I decrease throttle at any rate the bike starts to jerk and shutter. If im below 20mph it even does this holding the throttle steady. 20mph to 24mph it takes a few seconds before it starts acting up but it will cruise smooth at 25mph to 27mph. The issue comes and goes. I thought it was tweaks I was making to the bike that was making it stop but now im not so sure. I first thought it was a symptom of my air leak at the intake. The threads for the intake port were damaged by leftover metal flakes from production. The intake manifold would snug up but would shake loose and eventually pulled out the remaining threads. I Installed helicoils and that fixed the intake leaks. The bike ran better but would act up again once at running temp. Found an air leak at the head. While torquing the head bolts one snapped. So I pulled the head and trued it, flipped the head gasket, and replaced all the hardware besides the what holds the case together as I didn't want to risk having to split the case. After I put it all back together it ran great. The motor stopped revving high when pulling the clutch and I could even let go of the throttle with no issues. I live in Hill country Texas and have next to no flat stretches road. So with my bike running good I added a couple of holes in the air filter housing and a 1/4 hole at the bottom of the stock exhaust which allowed me to get up the hills and around the block without being WOT. After about a week and a half it started shaking hard when decreasing throttle but no high revving this time and no air leaks. I then tried adjusting the throttle cable and idle screw and that seemed to fix it but it was right back to its old ways the next ride. So after some digging I thought maybe the 40:1 trufuel premix I was using might be to lean. I couldn't find any ethanol free but was able to get 93 octane with less than 10% and mixed at at 32:1 and had no real change in performance. After some time on the forums I read that it may be the intake gasket that came with the motor so I did as the guy advised and cut the gasket to the intake port as it comes cut for the manifold. Sealed it with a touch of rtv. The next ride was the smoothest I had gotten up to that point. I thought finally I have this thing figured out! But no the problem came back after a few rides. At a loss I replaced the intake gasket, upgraded the exhaust to a cheap expansion chamber, upgraded to the 3 prong spark plug, replaced the fuel lines and filter, and drilled a tiny hole the gas cap. After all that the bike ran the best it ever has. However it only lasted a few days. So I pulled the plug thinking it had to be an air fuel issue, it was darker than I'd like so I moved the c-clip from the middle to the second notch from the top. It then idled a little rough but overall performance improved but didn't fix my problem. So I went back to the 40:1 which smoothed out the idle and made it not shake as hard. However it still shakes but the intensity of jerks changes from ride to ride. It still hasn't ran as smooth as when I replaced the stock gaskets and exhaust but it has improved in torque and response.

If you are still with me you are saint and a scholar! And if you have any advice I am all ears. Im completely lost. I don't know if this is part of the break-in period? or If this because I botched the break-in by beating on it to hard or not using the right fuel or ratio? Seriously any input is welcome.
 

Venice Motor Bikes

Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
Mar 20, 2008
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Los Angeles, CA.
I don't even know where to start... :eek:

The first thing that comes to mind is that I hate those multi prong spark plugs! (Get a NGK B6HS & gap it to about .025" - .028")

Next... if you're using two chain tensioners?, you probably don't have the rear sprocket set up correctly.
Stick with a 44t sprocket (for hill climbing) & install the clam shell adapter to get that sprocket spinning perfectly true...
The two sprockets also have to be in line with each other!!
The chain not being able to travel smoothly while riding is often a major cause of vibration & engine jerking.

Next... get rid of the cheap expansion chamber... none of those work very well & the stock pipe with a few holes drilled in the tip will work better.

Next... test the engine compression by simply rolling the bike forward by hand to see how hard it is to spin the engine through a compression cycle... If the engine spins easily, you have low compression... if you feel resistance & the piston slowly goes through the compression cycle with some force, it's good.

Make sure there are no air leaks on the intake, & don't keep changing the fuel mix! (stick with 40:1 oil mix)!

After you do all this, you can work on properly jetting the carb
 
Last edited:

Chris Doe

New Member
Jul 25, 2022
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Thanks for the reply. The compression is good, I planned on sticking to the 40:1 from now on. And I will take the advice on the spark plug but out of curiosity why do hate them? it does way better than the stock one gapped at.028.

As far as the exhaust goes the stock one is so close to the frame that they hit each other from the vibration. It makes an annoying sound and caused it shake loose faster. I did drill a 1/4" hole in the stock one and that did give it better low end. The speed demon however still gets up the hills without bogging way down and runs smoother at higher rpms as well as clears the frame and pedals. Both exhausts have the same end cap so my question is can I use the cap I have already drilled and get the same effect on the new exhaust?

Im just waiting for my next day off to install the clam shell. But I really don't think my problem is a chain or alignment issue. I took my time with it and have no measurable play off center and my runout is only 1.4mm so less than 1/16". The top of the chain runs directly above the bottom and is only offset by the lip on the rear sprocket. I added the 2nd tensioner after everything was aligned and after the chain had stretched some to avoid removing the extra links one or two at a time because it took so long to set. And like I said I have had ZERO chain issues. No jumping no popping no walking no binding and has never came off sprocket. I also feel that if it was an alignment issue that it wouldn't come and go or smooth out while accelerating. Right? A tension issue could explain it but the problem was there before adding the 2nd tensioner and has come and gone with no adjustment or change to the chain or rear wheel and sprocket.

And there are no air leaks i've sprayed the whole thing with carb cleaner multiple times and get no change in idle rpms.
 

Larry Trotter

Well-Known Member
Nov 26, 2017
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I had some very similar issues to yours with my bike. My jerking issues were solved by using a different head with a smaller combustion chamber. These engines are all put together with rather random parts and seems no two are exactly the same. Changed heads on mine and all problems vanished, that was after 3 different carburetors. See the pictures below with the different heads. The one on the right was the one that made it happy
30EBF0F9-5E0D-44BB-B5DC-3DD8055AAE50.jpeg
 
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