Threaded Rod as Head Stud replacement

Wickedest1

Wickedest1

Member
Can this be done? Can I use threaded rod as a replacement for my stripped studs? Found them stripped aparently from the factory as I've never once touched them... Contacted bberry and was laughed at and hung up on...kinda upset me because I've had nothing but excellent interactions with them...

Please someone tell me this can be safely done...

As an after thought, has anyone else had 2 studs fine threaded and 2 studs coarse threaded into the block? My 2011 flying horse has this...but all acorn nuts and stud tops are coarse thread...I'm kerfoozed..

But can threaded rod be used?

Sorry if this has been covered, the android I use is stoopid
 
Got threaded rod today, just cut the first "stud" and hand tightened it into the block, it actually fits better than the stock studs...its M8x1.25 coarse thread with a torque rating of 125,000psi...hope to be riding tomorrow..
Got the rod from the nutty company...
They have a website... www.nutty.com

dance1
 
that torque rating is unrealistic in your requirement.
as long as its metric strenght rating of 8.8 or higher.
sae threaded rod is usually a very soft material and high strength is hard to
obtain in my neck of the woods.they offered stainless,but thats
another mess of problems i didnt want to get into.
it sounds like you found some decent rod,hope it works.
keep us posted.
 
You only need to torque it to 25 ft.lbs, so it will work fine.

Some will say no, but when I did it, I loctited it into the "block" and used nuts (non-acorn) for the head.
 
i see no reason why it wont work. dump the acorns. and as sailors say, any port in a storm.
 
So, all 4 "studs" are in and torqued to 125 inch pounds...i first torqued the threaded rod into the block at 65 inch pounds then torqued the acorn nuts, with a lock washer and 2 flat washers...the head is finally even and no gapping...I've run it a few times for about 5 minutes at a time...checked for leaks...found none...seems to be running stronger and starts easier for sure...and no weird noises...

The threaded rod is used in aerospace technologies, according to the gentleman who has ben working at this company for 21 years...
Dont know if he was yanking my chain but a 4 foot section of this rod is very very hard to bend even slightly...

And its grade 8 hardened steel...
Proof? 4 burnt hacksaw blades essentially stripped of their teeth...and a busted knuckle...

Thanks guys for your input...ill be absolutely sure to keep everyone posted as to the stability of this as a replacement for studs...

This is not home cheapo threaded rod...please dont try that as a replacement...
 
Wickedest,

After your engine has reached operating temperature a couple of times re-check your torque. Don't go over your original setting just make sure the head nuts are still where you originally tightened them. After that you should be golden.

Tom
 
2door said:
Wickedest,

After your engine has reached operating temperature a couple of times re-check your torque. Don't go over your original setting just make sure the head nuts are still where you originally tightened them. After that you should be golden.

Tom
Click to expand...

Thanks tom...i had planned to do this already after reading a thread on head torque...I'm trying to do everything right with whatever is feasable...

Gearnut, biknut, bigbutterbean, and many others are due a lot of thanks for invaluable threads and advice...
 
O.K., some internet searching suggests 45 inch pounds!
I got lucky I guess.
125 inch pound therefor would also be too much, but apparently it worked.
 
I guess it's time to re-access my old school techniques! Never had a problem though, and I guess I have over torqued a few hundred plugs as well. :)

Geeze.

I use anti-seize compound on lug nuts too. Not supposed to do that, but I never had a problem with it either.

Don't listen to me any more.
 
I would get rid of the acorn nuts, they can bottom out and give you a false sense that your head is torqued properly. It sounds like you found some quality threaded rod, if others are having a hard time finding hardened threaded rod SickBikeParts.com sells nice stud upgrade kits for a reasonable price...
 
nightcruiser said:
I would get rid of the acorn nuts, they can bottom out and give you a false sense that your head is torqued properly. It sounds like you found some quality threaded rod, if others are having a hard time finding hardened threaded rod SickBikeParts.com sells nice stud upgrade kits for a reasonable price...
Click to expand...
I concur. Throw the acorn nuts in the trash or a spare parts box but don't use them on the cylinder head studs. I like shouldered (flanged) hex nuts. That way you know the torque you apply is tightening the nuts and not bottoming out on the studs before it is snug against the head. I've seen too many studs that are longer than they need to be and the acorn nuts will bottom out on them. They're pretty but can cause you problems.

Tom
 
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