Changed the bolted on sprocket

From the steel 41 kit sprock to an alloy GT 39t sprock I enlarged hole and drilled for the six inner "disk brake" pattern-

Got this on ebay cheap a while back now- don't know how long it will wear-

Someday I may get some Titanium 5mm x 25 or 30mm bolts- that would be the best and ultimate LIGHTEST set-up with a drilled large flanged flip/flop hub

Have an aluminum 34 waiting to put on the 66, from Kings sprockets,
but it is with a rag joint for now- it has the 6 drillings and looks like for 5 mm bolts.

anyway, here she is, and the "Nashville Kat Cat":

They have a 44t GT sprock like this- a Mongoose alloy- for like only $3 before shipping here-

kinda big, but if you want that size, it's cheap and really lightweight-

can't use with a rag joint tho.

Bargain Basement Bicycle Parts - Catalog

It's any wheel with a LARGE FLANGE, UNDRILLED, flip/flop hub-
Some TRACK HUB and BMX HUBS might work too if they have the large undrilled sides.

This one I got used on craigslist built up- it's a 32 hole- which is a little unfortunate- I'd rather have a normal 36 hole
and the rim is only 3/4 of an inch wide- a one inch 700c is more ideal because it can take a wider tire- this tire I have on the rim is labled 32mm/ 1 3/8" wide. It looks like a 1 3/8 tire but 700c diameter, not 27" and the sidewall sways just a bit on the narrow rim- it feels a little "mushy" which I don't think it would on an inch wide rim-

Here's the cheapest flip/flop I've found that is both high flanged and has smooth sides suitable for drilling:
Amazon.com: HUB REAR TRACK KT 36H SILVER FIXED/FREE: Sports & Outdoors

There are also some already built:
http://www.amazon.com/27x1-1-Track-Wheel-Alloy-Ch-21/dp/B001DTRSXY/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
a 27" rim is usually an inch wide, and a 27 x 1 3/8 tire gives you a little more rubber and a higher profile than the 1 1/4 tire- and rolls. The only problem is then the brake- if your cruiser fram hasn't got braze ons for CANTILEVER brakes, then you need to find a brake with a longer reach.

Here's the brake I used for the rear wheel- the brakes are slightly mismatched- a set of the same probably won't have the correct reach on both brakes- I painted mine red, but this seller also has them in annodized red-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-BLACK-B...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43aa3721a7
You can swap the cable guide and pinch around so that it pulls from the top.


the King's hubs already have the inner drilling, and if you request it from Boygofast or Luckyearlybird on e-bay - they usually say they have them- a 36 tooth works well, on pavement at least, because a 700c wheel really rolls- the extra height is like taking a tooth to a back sprock too. But you have to request one- they don;t normally ship them

i have an old 32 I got from them that had the six drillings and I copied that pattern on the two I drilled- if it's steel- you need a good fresh and sharp drill bit- the alloy drills very easily.

If you want a cheap flip/flop hub to use that still needs a rag, joint, here are some that at least accomodate the sprocket on a freewheel bike witout any other fuss:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bike-Bicycl...pt=AU_Sport_Cycling_Parts&hash=item5ae2ea866d
The frewheel can be multiple for a derailleur- which "tensions" the pedal side, or a single BMX style freewheel which then needs more careful chain matching or a motor tensioner- which I can't stand myself!

They did have some higher quality alloy ones like this on e-bay but I don't see any right now- they'll probably be back and a couple dollars more

Here's an alloy one that looks like the sprock will fit- or in some cases just a little filing on the hub- you can do it on the bike upside down with a flat file- will reduce the hub diameter just the little bit it needs for the sprock- they have the same clearance away from the bearings and axle as the threaded side and doesn't hurt it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Formula-All...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e97b26fd

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JOYTECH-REA...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a14cb6958


Next for this bike- I have an alloy 3 piece crank that'll save even more weight- I have to push this up and down stairs, and the larger wheels help in that regard too.

The only improvement I would make to this system is to use M5 bolts-
I drilled the holes to accomodate the usual kit M6 bolts- but the inner drillings- and probably the disk brake hubs (NOT available as a freewheel hub- only wiiiiide cassette I believe) use M5 bolts.

It's all very solid, and so I guess the smaller bolts work, and would also leave more alloy around the drillings on the hubs- although I've had no problems.