Art Fish Mobile Motor Bike prior Motor Bike DIY'er build to add side car maybe?

curtisfox said:

Go to MTD snowblower and you can get a metal flat ideler pully for the same snowblower that decotherd's engine come off of.
It a model 181 single stage snowblower. I typed in Murray 181 and it come up and went from there.
I thought you had it right or i would have sent you the site. If you would have a way to spin a roller skate or skate board wheel you could put a grouve in the center with a file or even a wood lath tool...............Curt

Looked it up here you go. Its the size you are looking for the snowblower had a 1/2 inch belt the pully is under 2" and has a 3/8" bolt hole. The oridgonal was metal but the new one looks plastick of some sort. http://www.ereplacementparts.com/flat-idler-p-961236.html
I have one someplace in the shop i just took it off last fall when i sold the motor to decothered

Click to expand...

I am using 1/2 inch bore. I already have it on order. The pulley and adapter bushing for 1/2 inch bore. But thanks I have book marked that seller web page.

What I bought:

http://shop.rotarycorp.com/p/pulley-idler-flat-3-4in-x1-7-8in-fip1875-0-75-composite

http://shop.rotarycorp.com/p/bushing-idler-pulley-050-id

I picked up some screens from windows with extruded light weight metal. They are not enough weight in aluminum for the guy putting in new windows and screens to care to recycle them. I found if I make a jig I probably will take the metal and get a nice arc for the Skeleton Frame part of the Fish Art Cover. Initially I put it over my knee (ha ha) and tried to not kink the metal.

The screen portion may also be useful in backing up the light weight fish print scales type fabric. It is only light weight cotton with a fire proof spray I will coat it with. The fire proof spray I tested and a flame will only make the fabric char and crumble. It will not catch flame and burn on its own. It goes out immediately and only a second later glowing stops.

I also have saved a lot of old fiber glass sail batons and other plastic tubes that can bend to a nice arc I will be experimenting with. The major connections to the frame go into these 6ea 3/8 thread metal bosses. 3 on the left and 3 on the right that are front, mid, and back of bike frame. It will be a modular cover that can be easily removed for dirt bike transformation.

MT

Good News:

I got a reply that my order for what shall be hopefully the right stuff is getting ready. They sent me an email and they say another will be sent later so I can track it.

Not sure, but I think they say it will go straight to me rather than to a near by Shop that is a dealer for Rotary. That would be better as I paid for shipping why should I then have to drive to a shop to pick up these parts I ordered. I suspect that pickup at store is used for other circumstances.

Later I can get to working on it. Still thinking about the 12 inch inflatable small bike wheels as big training wheels. I have to see how ungainly it rides when I have the Fish Art Cover On it. The other thing is with wind starting up unexpectedly I think it would be wise to have the training wheels on it. I can remember laying down a Kawasaki 350, but getting my leg out from under the side it fell toward and hitting the soft dirt. A road bike is really meant for the road. This little 3 hp Briggs bike is much lighter, but still no cake walk.

I would hate seeing even if my leg was not underneath, what could surmount to as blackened California Sheeps Head Fish when a desert gust pushes unexpectedly.

I may also have a quick release. I mean a way of pulling the fabric off and not destroying it and then the wind will just pass through the skeleton frame which may include screen material. I think if I did not throw out some plastic screen material, I could use it rather than the aluminum screen. I just would not have the fire proof spray doing nearly as much good if I go plastic. I guess I might be testing the plastic with a torch too.

MT

While I'm waiting for the flat idler pulley which is left Mississippi and now is in Tennessee going North and hopefully at some point going West, I did some of the fish skeleton frame mockup. I also got metal cut up and getting the ways figured on how it will all be modular to assemble and disassemble.

You'll have to note that the mouth (jaw) of the fish is only on one side now and I will duplicate that. You also might expect that the round candle drip trays and metal attaching to what I only want as the just what will be the mouth of the fish will be die grinder cut off later.

I'm not sure I will be using the screen, but the approximated curve for more of the skeleton frame for the fish, I had a neighbor said it gives it character. The Glass top table round tubing made of steel does though have graceful curves, so I might try to keep in tune with that.

The whole thing is not in reality going to look like a real fish, but at least there should be a resemblance and not be considered modern art. Not that modern art does not have its place, it is just what I am trying to achieve is more geared in a different direction. I listen to all out jazz music and you might say it parallels modern art in the area of jazz music. Maybe my next art vehicle would go that route!

Enjoy!

MT

I have the sort of flat idler pulley with the correct dimensions or at least close enough that it is a good part for me to use.

I say sort of as the flat is really with a small crown at the middle of the flat between the walls. There it is a bit over 1-3/4 inch in the center, but right on the mark 1-3/4 inch near each side which seems OK. Width or height is the 3/4 inch on the inside which is good for my 1/2 inch A section vee-belt. A rule of thumb I saw posted online was 1.5 times the top of the vee-belt width for the width of a flat idler pulley on the inside of the walls. This is just that!

The bearings seem nice and smooth.

The bushing reducer is 0.05 mili-meters smaller on the outside portion than the inside of the pulley's bearings it is supposed to fit with.

That is the size thickness of a store printed receipt which is quite thin, but metal does not compress easily and hammering it in even with a rubber or plastic mallet seems stupid. I would probably take some 400 grit emory cloth and take down the bushing to fit the pulley, not the other way around.

The bore on the pulley has been beveled by each sides edges, but that will not do much to help the situation with the parts size differences.

The picture where it is attempted to put them together is showing it trying on a slant. I will check with the shop, but the guy from Rotary said that they just go in loosely, and this is not what I found at all.

I measure 16.98 mm and 17.03 mm on the parts.

The inside of the bushing is supposed to be 0.5000 inch 12.71 mm and it reads 0.5115 inch 13 mm which is 115 ten thousandths an inch (1/64 inch) 0.29 mm larger which seems OK as the bolt shoulder I am to put it with will probably be just fine.

MT

I put the 1/2 inch bushing reducer in the pulley just by hand with it just grabbing only very slightly inside to the pulley bore.

Then I put the pulley on an oven mitt to keep it from getting scratched and then the oven mitt on the ground (cement).

I took a large dowel of wood and just used the long dowel of wood as a hammer and proceeded to check on the progress. After viewing the bushing going in after about 5 or so good hits, it was about a 1/3 the way seated in place. It went in and I expect a press would be necessary if it is ever needed to be removed.

The keyway that is only half way through on the Max Torque Clutch I made a special shaped key for it so that it could be put on the crankshaft with the pulley on the outside by the end of the crank shaft. The pictures shows the shaped key and it in the keyway on the crankshaft.

I will need to make threads in the end of the crankshaft. The Briggs engine only has a hole in it a very short distance with out any tapped threads. There is a bevel at the end and where the bevel stops the hole is like only a 1/4 inch further in and then it stops.

I expect that the tech at Briggs who said there are 1/4 -28 threads already tapped in the end must be thinking on another model as this seems only to be for the use of a flywheel puller to remove a clutch or a pulley on the crankshaft that might stick.

I checked on the size of the hole there already and it does seem I could have enough meat for the size 1/4 -28 threads, but only if I continue to deepen it a bit more.

I'll look to do that and also get the bolt, flat washer and lock washer to use on the threads I make in the end of the crank shaft to hold the clutch in place along with the modified key and the two set screws in the clutch.

The pulley has to be on the outside so that I can mount the flat idler pulley. Otherwise there would not be enough room. I also put the large top jack shaft pulley on with the set screw by the inside so that the clutch pulley and it would line up perfect.

The idler pulley I will make a bracket that will hold on both sides of the threaded ends. I will have the shoulder in the middle, by cutting off the bolt hex head end and make more threads on a portion of the existing shoulder.

The threads may be 3/8 inch on the ones I will use a die to make I think and not 1/2 inch as what exist on the bolt now at the other end.

I could experiment, but I measured the shoulder and it is not 1/2 inch, but slightly under, so this means that I will probably go to 3/8 inch.

It will be OK with one end at 1/2 inch threads and the other at 3/8 inch threads as it is strong with that and the amount of force on the idler is supposed to be maybe 15 pounds so it will be OK.

The tension on the ends of the bracket with the bolt through it has it so that it does not spin the bushing around the bolt shoulder, but there is too much play now as I see it.

With this the way it is slightly less than 1/2 inch diameter, means I will have to shim the shoulder to get it to fit tighter if it is to be at its best. I picked up some very thin sheet metal copper today to do this.

It is possible I may find some round stock if I look again and then shimming it will not be necessary. I'll have to thread both ends and this means I could have then both the same size 1/2 inch threads or both 3/8 inch threads.

The cover over the clutch and the top jack shaft large pulley I will cut and modify to make room for the flat idler pulley. I checked the foot peg underneath and it still will be clear of it so this is good.

The fish skeleton cover parts I got a few more thing for it to work. I will probably bring back some coupler nuts to Homedepot as the threads were really bad. Two of the three in the package were marginal and one would just only go so far. The threaded rod I got there was OK, but I ended up in OSH today to get a couple of packages of 5/16 coupler nuts so I could have the skeleton frame easily be installed and dis-assembled in a modular way.

The skeleton frame I will likely use some of this round dowel like plastic tube to make a nice radius bend perpendicular to the metal round shapes from the glass top table parts I cut up.

Fabric after it is coated with fire proof spray I will attach the grommet button snaps to hold the fabric onto the skeleton frame. A door with hinges on both sides and also the smaller 10 inch inflatable tires for training wheels on the back of the bike will make it safe.

With the possibility that I could have it go over if I could not handle a gust of wind or something I'm going to have to have something or spotters all the time which would be fun, but don't expect that that would actually happen.

The turn buckles are going to have to be smaller and more compact for snugging up the idler even if they are removed after the pulley is tightened in place. I will use external star tooth lock washers that I will be getting and also nylon insert locking nuts.

I may even just use eye bolts and a few hex nut on both sides of a part of the bracket that is immobile attached to the bike frame. This in itself will be a tightening mechanism much like the ones with the turn buckles for the snugging the rear wheel pulley in the drop outs that worked great.

MT

I don't have pictures of what I decided I will be changing on how I will make the flat idler pulley bracket with.

It is going to be adjustable, but more compact. Less to do as far as no needing to break out the die and make threads on the shoulder of the bolt for two sides with threads.

I will use the hex head end of this other bolt I have that has a much shorter shoulder. I will have to shim the 1/2 inch bolt shoulder a slight bit with the thin copper sheet I have to make it fit better with what was supposed to be a 1/2 inch bushing reducer for the flat idler pulley.

Too bad it was not closer fit, but it should be OK with the proper shim.

Then I'll have a heavy angle bracket welded to the bottom left side of the engine platform. From there it will have two parallel vertical pieces that will rise a few inches.

They will have two slots on each side of these parallel vertical pieces so that another two vertical pieces above mounted with holes drilled through will connect together with 3/8 inch bolt, washer, external star tooth lock washer, and nylon lock nut. The above vertical pieces will have the flat idler pulley mounted on it.

This will allow the adjust-ability from the slots and have 4 ea total 3/8 inch fasteners to really hold it tight. I will temporarily use a turn buckle or the like on both sides to tension the flat idler pulley on the top two parallel pieces.

The way this will be is nicer than what I had though up before. There is more force from 4ea 3/8 inch fasteners holding it and the 1/2 inch bolt with shoulder is a separate part for the idler pulley and 1/2 inch bushing in it. Additionally with it made this way the width of the idler pulley mount can be smaller and fit better inside the protective cover.

For disassembling the pulley it can be serviced without any problem. The welding bracket parts will have to stay intact. I will probably also make gussets to make the attachment to the bottle left side of the engine platform very sturdy. I may also have a double thickness bracket as it extends outward to the left to the parts of the bracket that the flat idler pulley will mount on.

One of these days I will like to have a tap and die set to complement the normal right hand threads of the one I have now. Left hand threads like on one half of a turn buckle are nice so that I could make devices more compact that are like the function of a turn buckle.

MT

A few pics of the progress with the bracket for the flat idler pulley on the first belt.

Using the external star tooth lock washers to hold the 1/2 shaft with shoulder for the mounting of the flat idler pulley on a slotted bracket for adjustment, I seem to think I have a better way.

The brackets on the inner are slotted for 1/2 inch and also will have a 5/16 hole at the top on each side.

I will have two pieces of excess cut off metal from the angle brackets I am using. The pieces will go outside the slotted ones. They will have a 1/2 inch hole and a 5/16 hole in each. As I snug the belt up with a turnbuckle like the rear drop outs or something else, the inner and outer 5/16 holes will line up and I will put the bolt through.

This will make both the 5/16 hole keep the inner and out metal pieces alined with one another, and make the mounting rigid. It cannot flex the top forward or aft this way.

I'll use split lock washers and also a nylon locking nuts for the fasteners. The use of external star lock washers for the 1/2 shaft for the flat idler pulley will not be necessary.

The outer flat metal pieces will keep the 1/2 shaft in the slot from moving as the upper holes lined up with inner and outer pieces have the 5/16 bolts holding the assembly so it cannot move either up or down.

I really only have adjustment to put on or remove a belt. When I find the right regular vee-belt, I will drill the holes to the tension I feel is best. The 5/16 holes without any slots on either inner or out metal pieces will make it so.

If I decide later to slot one half inner or outer metal pieces then I will be forces to use external star tooth lock washers on both the 1/2 and 5/16 inch bolts to be sure it does not slip down.

I got the slots cut for the 1/2 inch inner metal pieces and think I may do as I did with the slots on the dual stacked jack shaft brackets, beef up the side by welding some more metal to them as the slots weaken the metal some I know.

Maybe over kill, but there is room that it will be easy to do. I vee grind all pieces so the MIG weld gets through an through welded.

Still have to make the shim for the loose larger than half inch bore on the bushing in the flat idler pulley as it was not as they said. They also on the web site, you might have noticed said 0.050" which is 5 hundreths, a 1/20 of an inch, but that didn't phase me as I knew they meant 1/2 inch and the guy on the phone verified this.

Still the measurement for the 1/2 is just so loose I could have the bushing spinning around the 1/2 bolt shoulder and the bearing in the flat idler pulley doing not much. I will not allow that to happen, I will shim between both the inner bore of the bushing reducer and the shoulder on the 1/2 inch bolt.

To contact tomorrow the place, but I don't expect much from them. I spent enough time with measurements of what I tried to buy correctly enough. My handle MT should be something the seller should adopt. Oh well $^&* happens!


It will be OK anyway the way I fix it, as I know I don't want the whole thing to melt with the friction not on the bearings.

***** new info:

I contacted the seller and found that the 100th inch larger (0.01") than the stated 1/2 inch (0.5") was (0.051"), but it will be OK.

They say that the pressure on the bushing from the sides from the nut on the shaft keeps the
bushing from rotating. I thought it should be tighter and I guess it does not matter, but I may still shim the parts. You can see daylight between the parts and it can rock a little when the nut is not on the end tightened.

The 1/2" shoulder on the bolt I thought I had was actually is just under by 5/100th inch (0.05"), so the two differences add up to fifteen hundreths of an inch (0.15") of slop.

MT

New information for the ID of the 1/2 inch bushing. See edited last post.

MT

I started to get the bracket parts ready to weld for the flat idler pulley.

I use the 5/16 bolt through the bottom left side of the engine platform just to hold it while I weld around the side. Then after that the bolt is removed and the hole is filled with weld making it all stronger as the center gets a weld also through and through.

The two pieces of metal attached to the bottom of the left side of the engine platform will eventually be welded together and to the platform, all sandwiched. I just will weld two parts first. I want to get an idea how it will be first. Maybe even just see with the bolt first. Then just tack weld, hope that no warping happens.

I have lee way in mind for the measurements as I can add or remove washers on the bolt with the shoulder for the flat idler pulley and bushing reducer.

I used a key for shaft keyways just taped to the side edge of one of the angle brackets to help me mark up the metal with a scribe and dye-chem stuff. Transferring measurements gets tricky, so I did this to help as a jig. Once I got it marked up I removed this.

Tomorrow maybe do I'll be doing the prep and the weld and see how it goes from there.

Note that the link type belt in green is the one that stretches so bad it is useless except to get the side to side measurements as I was doing per the picture. Only a regular vee-belt is what is going on all three of the belts places I will use.

The red color (not shown) link type belt I got from Grainger rather that Harbor Freight may be something I could possibly use as it does not stretch and it is a possibility. It is 3 times the cost of the Harbor Freight link type belt and 6 times the cost of a regular vee-belt. So I may just return it unused.

The hula hoops of 2 sizes I got at K-mart will be the ribs that will be added to the other fish skeleton parts at 90 degrees. The other parts I made from the frame of and old thrown out glass top table in the dumpster. They have yet to be figured exactly how they will attach in a modular way to the bike frame. I have the seat post clamps and threaded rod idea coming together and other stuff maybe as well.

It is now taking shape finally.

The door for the access to sitting on the banana seat and also the use of 10 inch inflatable training wheels on the back wheel are in order too.

Oh yea forgot the hair spray is the great idea I got from a TV show Curiosity Quest.

http://www.curiosityquest.org/

You use it as a glue to hold on the handle bar grips. I used it on the twist grip throttle. It is no where near the moving parts on the throttle so it is OK.

There is a cone shape part that is connected to the throttle. The grip goes over that part, but did not have enough friction to hold good so I did this.

The other left side I just did today. I know when as dual purpose vehicle, as I get to using it as a dirt bike I want it really to hold on good and not slip or twist. You know I will be pealing up and down hills and stuff.

Otherwise I will be in search of krill for the fish at 8 thousand feet up on a 50 thousand year old dry lake bed

MT

This is where I started on the welding of the bracket for the flat idler pulley for the first belt.

I put weld spatter gel on the threads as some people said is also good to keep them clean. I also used as usual on the MIG nozzle.

The wind was blowing a bit and I went up from 15cfm to 19cfm even though I found a little bit of a wind break. It did well.

Next 5 pics and later to get one of three sizes to best fit a vee-belt regular type not links. This did seem OK, but the back of the belt has the bumps and I think not good with back side idler.

The Powerated Gates 4L type is the green ones you did disconnected temporarily for the 2nd and 3rd vee-belts for the 40:1 total reduction ratio.

Later to weld in the hole and grind flat. The second part of the two sided bracket for the idler pulley shaft will weld to the first one once I set it up again with all melt-able parts removed. Filling in the hole with weld will give strength even more.

A gusset also may be added after the 2 parts are welded to the under side of the left side of engine platform. I may make it connect to the bar that was welded to the bottom for the foot pegs to mount on. Two axis connections will also give better rigidity.

MT

Self explanatory for the previous post explains.

MT

I got the closest size in a Gates Powerated regular vee-belt for the first belt. I checked with the section belt before and it measured around 37 and 3/4 inches.

The 38 inch belt does fit fine. I'll return the 37 inch and 39 inch belt without any problem. O'reilly Auto did not have to special order, just came from wherehouse, so unused I can get full refund.

Anyway it grabs great with the flat idler pulley helping. I got it centered exact and used two c-clamps and a bunch of washers to hold it in place exact as I welded it. The pulley I felt would be best to remove and use just the washers to simulate it being there.

Heat can damage stuff ya know!

I welded the second part of the bracket. No picture after the welding. I have to get back to checking how it rides now as I have all the belts where they are the regular belts now with tensioning able to be done successfully.

Just to mention, the anti weld spatter stuff on the thread ends of the bolt usually works great protecting the threads, but only this time the highest point upward on the threads got some spatter and ruined the threads and the nut as I removed it.

The threads were way too long and I am to be cutting most of them off anyway. It was just the size that had the right amount of shoulder I wanted.

The nut is in the trash so I do not use it and destroy other threads.

Anti weld spatter gel is only good as long as it stays put. As it heats up and turns to dripping due to gravity, then it just pretty much is gone and the threads are susceptible. Not a biggie anyway.

I used a crumpled beer can before over stuff and also the copper sheet to cover stuff. That works well as just putting a nut or a few or a coupler nut on the threads and use them only for that to protect the threads.

The art skeleton frame real soon to be starting!

Then the doors to access the banana seat and also the fireproofed cloth cover that looks like the scales on the California Sheepshead Fish.

The first pic I note that I have to grind away a little of the bracket to allow one of the engine mounting bolts washer room to be used without being distorted. Just a few more things and test ride again.

MT

The cover needed a bit of mod to make the idler fit under it. Some more metal to weld for the changed cover and maybe use of fiber glass cloth and resin.

The past riding test of the 40:1 ratio was OK, but now all belts have a way to tension them up and the Gates Brand Powerated version of the regular type vee-belt "A" section or "4L" section work very well. I cannot yet test till I have the cover proper back for the first belt.

With the rotational speeds being 400rpm to 700rpm on that 10 inch or so spoked vee-belt pulley, it has to be under the cover for obvious safety reasons.

The big spoked pulley on the rear wheel is already slowed by the first four pulleys and two belts going to the twin jackshafts, so my forward speed can be below 5mph with clutch fully engaged. Top speed for the woods OHV mode when not a fish maybe 15mph I think.

The tops of the brackets to be cut shorter and the bolt threads too. The excess cut of the brackets to be made to devices to add back to the bracket verticals to make the pulley bolt locked in position. Maybe it would not be needed as not that much force is on the idler, but to have to take the cover off when otherwise a better sort of fail safe design could be had, it just makes sense to build it anyway.

MT

The 2nd belt that connects the twin stacked jackshaft I made modified keys to shim the space in the adjustable slots to move the bottom jackshaft downward.

There will be two on each side to that the metal holder for the pillow bearing will be at the exact same height on both sides when I make a device to push or pull the bottom jackshaft downward on both sides.

Before I had just got the two sides the same height and twisted the jackshaft with out the belt on. When the bearings spin without grabbing, then I tightened the bolts on the pillow bearing holders and just popped the belt on. This is not good for the belt and I decided if the other two belts had it done right, I might as well do this one right too.

Using the key that has a rounded side is already set to fit in the nice radius of the bottom of the slots that are adjustable. When the bolt threads meet with the sawed straight across other side of the key, it cannot be tightened any further. All four will be checked to have the same height and spin freely on the bearings.

I don't care if the threads get mashed in the area where I use these keys to shim as only the ends where the nuts screw on is what matters.

The round magic marker marking is put there so that I trim the keys to what ever each one needs to be. The other side two keys I have not yet made, but I know they may be different, so there will be magic marker marks so that I make the keys for that side just right.

I want the jackshafts to be not askew. The turn buckles I used on the 3rd belt give me an idea that I can also use the same or other turn buckles or something like that to tension the belt between the top and bottom jackshafts.

MT

a few more pics in the next post

The side with the cover over the 1st of 2 10inch pulleys has this back plate that also holds the slotted bottom of the twin stacked jackshafts in place. That is the side I am going to finished making the rest of the two keys for.

Should not be too much longer till I can test the bike out a second time and notice how the regular vee-belts all snugged up right work out.

Powerated brand of the Gates Belts for vee-belts I'm using for all three of my belts. There is a 38 inch 1st belt, and 18 inch 2nd belt and a 58 inch 3rd belt that goes to the rear wheel 10 inch washing machine pulley sandwiched to the spokes.

MT

Don't worry the 2nd photo is just without the bolts there temporarily while I make the keys, it does all line up. I have to move the jackshafts inward to put on the 1st 10inch pulley with the way I have the bracket for the 1st belts idler pulley, so it is temporarily left this way. To put it all back before I get it done just wears out the threads and wastes time, so this is how it goes.

The rust will eventually give way to the angle grinder with abrasive and then a coat of paint too.

Two covers left and right. One safety cover for left 10inch pulley (show on right side by my feet), and right cover to protect delicate carb throttle linkages, has cut away area where pull start cord is accessible.

The cover on the right I will still have to make a cover of sheet metal over the square hole where it is open now. It was found that the bracket for the idler pulley does actually fit inside the cover. The threads for the bolt I will cut off and it will be done. The cover I am planning to add fiber glass cover to the metal and make it smooth. It is so strong I can stand on it and it holds my weight.

Just realized that after trimming down the idler pulley bracket as planned, I as planned might or might not use the left over pieces to make other parts for the bracket. Those would be a shim that once the idler is in the position to tension the belt fully, these would prevent the bolt from slipping back down. The external star tooth washers would not be necessary and a split lock washer used instead.

I also noticed that after I trim the bracket, then the large 10 inch pulley for first belt would not have to have the top jackshaft loosened and slid inward for the pulley to be installed. That is a pain to do and even more so when the belts are already on and tensioned up.

Looking at the ends of the lower jackshaft, I see what I'll probably be doing so that I can tension the 2nd belt between top and bottom jackshafts an not be popping the belt in place. The lower jackshaft is the adjustable one while the upper one is stationary.

I plan to use the same turn buckles that are used with the hooks that tension the rear pulley (i.e. whole rear wheel in drop outs) for the tensioning top to bottom jackshafts belt. There is just the need to remove the 1st large 10 inch pulley to access the little nub of the end of the bottom jackshaft for the hook to grab on for the left side.

Then the bottom of the plate that is holding the four vertical brackets that hold the twin jackshafts I'll either temporarily bolt or weld a part that will be used for the other end of the tensioner tool.

The length of tool is easily converted to a shorter length by taking the coupler nut off and using a shorter 3/8 inch threaded rod.

Noted that the right side there is a lot of extra jackshaft protruding. I purposely left it a bit long as it is under the carb right side cover and may hook up a pulley that I can use to transfer power to a alternator 12 volt 60 amps along with 30 ampere hours group U1 AGM Lead Acid Deep Cycle Battery.

This would only be used with the rear wheel drive belt removed and the bike stationary. The carbon arc lamp to light the sky using this power is sort of a dream. I just have to get a 5/8 inch shaft pulley that uses the serpentine belt length wise multiple groove pulley. It is so that it matches like the one that is already on my old Ford Ranger alternator spare I kept.

MT

I finished making all the shims to allow the tension on the belt between bottom and top jackshafts to be just perfect. I spun the shaft with the pulleys and it was smooth and coasted too. Then I moved the bottom jackshaft up as high as it could go and put the belt on both the top and bottom jack shaft pulleys.

The key type shims 1, 2, 3, & 4 all specifically were ground to have the bottom jackshaft in the exact same position after the belt is tensioned by the bottom jackshaft moving back down again.

More pictures in the next post see the turn buckle that I used two of before when they tensioned the 3rd pulley on the rear wheel in the drop outs. I just removed the extension and you see how it goes.

The larger fender washers are necessary to keep the shims in place. External star tooth lock washers keep the bolts on and the shaft from moving back upward and loosening tension on the belt.

MT

Continued more pics

Once the two turn buckles pulled the bottom jackshaft down to bottom out with all four shims, I tightened all the way the otherwise just slightly loose bolts.

Then I loosened both turn buckles and found the little middle 18 inch belt between the top and bottom jackshaft pulleys was tensioned perfect. I could press about a 1/3 of an inch on the belt.

Later I will be running the engine and testing out the bike with all then belts on and tensioned. The idler pulley on the front and the extensioned two turn buckles for the rear wheel drop outs for the wheel drive pulley all snugged up right!

I also trimmed the bolt on the idler pulley and also trimmed the bracket so putting on and off the first big 10 inch pulley is easy to do now. I need not move the jackshaft sideways anymore to put it on.

The picture does not show it that way as I had not taken the picture later of that work.

MT