Yes it's an older frame, more than 10 years old I know for sure. I've seen many youtube videos it looks like so much fun cant wait to start riding! I'm also planning to use it as an alternate means of transportation. Have an old car on it's last leg so don't drive it much, need another way to get around.Yep, you did. I just want to let you know, however, that most of the newer trek frames are very, very tight when it comes to fitting any engine. I wasn't able to fit one of those engines on a Marlin 5 it was so tight. Depending on the model, you MIGHT have just enough space to rub off some paint, and not much else. If I could get the model name and year of the bike, I could help you out a bit more.
If you have an older frame, it will likely fit.
Gotcha. Those decade old frames will fit it. They tend to be tall and open, although on the tight side. The ones from the '90s are even better. Essentially road bikes with wider wheels, slacker geometry, and heavier, thicker tubes. Im running a 79cc HF motor on a mongoose threshold, about a 20 year old bike. It fits the engine and holds up to the 5 horses I got turnin through it.Yes it's an older frame, more than 10 years old I know for sure. I've seen many youtube videos it looks like so much fun cant wait to start riding! I'm also planning to use it as an alternate means of transportation. Have an old car on it's last leg so don't drive it much, need another way to get around.
Ok. I'll keep that in mind about the aluminum frame. Just for future reference, can you recommend a stronger type of frame I could get down the road less prone to cracking? If I were to keep everything stock, would the frame still be prone to cracks? What are some good frames for the 80cc motors?Gotcha. Those decade old frames will fit it. They tend to be tall and open, although on the tight side. The ones from the '90s are even better. Essentially road bikes with wider wheels, slacker geometry, and heavier, thicker tubes. Im running a 79cc HF motor on a mongoose threshold, about a 20 year old bike. It fits the engine and holds up to the 5 horses I got turnin through it.
Your bike may be made of aluminum, since that got popular in the 2000s, so be very aware of any cracks forming as you upgrade for more power. They can and will be catastrophic. It may be worth your while to learn how to weld aluminum so you can strengthen and repair your frames.
For the stock motors, you can use any frame without reinforcements. Once you start getting above 4 horses though, you start wanting steel frames. 6 horses and up need some kind of reinforcements.Ok. I'll keep that in mind about the aluminum frame. Just for future reference, can you recommend a stronger type of frame I could get down the road less prone to cracking? If I were to keep everything stock, would the frame still be prone to cracks? What are some good frames for the 80cc motors?
Somewhere between 4 and 5 horses. Started off with 3.5, then added a dellorto carb with a rejet, lapped my cylinder head (there came to be a gouge in the surface from a retention pin), and installed 18lb valve springs. Soon, I will be really wet sanding down the cylinder head with 400g paper and Tap Master cutting oil, and finishing it with two sheets of 1000g and the same oil. I am also going to increase the bolt torque to 18ft/lbs from the 14 on it now.Ok. Thanks for all the help so far. Down the road, I do want to do some upgrades but for now on a tight budget so a stock motor will do fine for me. I've heard some people when they install their first kit, they have to bend the tube of the exhaust a little to clear the pedal, hopefully that wont be the case with my bike. It does have front suspension too for a better ride. I like your ride btw. How many HP you running right now?
Yes, but you have to use your chain breaker and possibly a half link to get the tension right. Otherwise, that chain will hop around, and sometimes even right off the sprocket. I had that issue with every single tensioner that came with any kit. It's just not a good idea to use them.Right on. Another thing I been hearing is people have a lot of problems with those chain tensioner that come with the kit due do the danger of them constantly moving closer to the spokes while riding. Is it possible to deleted the chain tensioner altogether?
I did motorcycle specific #420 power transfer chain from JT sprockets. My 79cc kept breaking the 415. You'll not break that #420 chain for at least 1,000 miles.Best would be to get #41 chain will not stretch like the kit chain ( tractor supply ). Wile at it get a good chain breaker, need it if you are going to be doing more builds anyway..........Curt
I did motorcycle specific #420 power transfer chain from JT sprockets. My 79cc kept breaking the 415. You'll not break that #420 chain for at least 1,000 miles.