So the little bolt with the nut that goes through the rear coaster brake arm I think the threads on the bolt are stripped. The little nut spins freely but won't come off. I'd rather not have to resort to using my Dremel on it or having to drill through it. I even tried holding a torch to it to try to heat up the nut but it didn't help. What else could I try to get that bolt out without having to Dremel or drill it? Any help will be appreciated.
Threads on the little bolt and nut on rear coaster brake arm are stripped out
- Thread starter Rusty_Nail
- Start date
Use a angle grinder with a cut-off wheel & cut it! (be a man) 
Well he did do a manly thing and tried to use a torch on it. I don’t know how you thought it was gonna help if it’s already spinning free, @Rusty_Nail.Use a angle grinder with a cut-off wheel & cut it! (be a man)
The manliest thing you can do with a map torch is light a cigarette with it, also it’s the only way without takin your eyes off the road windows down at 80mph… even manlier would be to light a very *short* roach…. I’ve never been that manly though…
The angle grinder, die grinder, Dremel tool, all would be alright. Just as Tony pointed out you would be best to immobilize the screw & nut from spinning before grinding, or just a hacksaw to cut the thing.
I have a chain nose vice grips which I would attach to something like this to stop it from turning. A bungee cord holding the vice grips in place and use my die grinder, that seem easy enough.
I had a front wheel axle that I used a regular vice grips to stop from turning while a cross threaded nut was preventing from taking the thing apart. Sometimes stuff happens, and things your about to fix, need additional things to fix in the process. Just get creative, but wear ear plugs, face mask, & face shield that covers neck area. Goggles are not going to prevent something like a cut off wheel fragment from ending up in the esophagus!
I use my die grinder with a separate speed control, this so I get a better control.
The bike itself could also be immobilized by using some cord or bungees. I used my old lead weight belt or heavy chain and bungees any time I use the center stand with one wheel off the bike. A stand that grabs and holds the frame still, I never got that fancy to buy the like, but improvised what I have works.
MT
I have a chain nose vice grips which I would attach to something like this to stop it from turning. A bungee cord holding the vice grips in place and use my die grinder, that seem easy enough.
I had a front wheel axle that I used a regular vice grips to stop from turning while a cross threaded nut was preventing from taking the thing apart. Sometimes stuff happens, and things your about to fix, need additional things to fix in the process. Just get creative, but wear ear plugs, face mask, & face shield that covers neck area. Goggles are not going to prevent something like a cut off wheel fragment from ending up in the esophagus!
I use my die grinder with a separate speed control, this so I get a better control.
The bike itself could also be immobilized by using some cord or bungees. I used my old lead weight belt or heavy chain and bungees any time I use the center stand with one wheel off the bike. A stand that grabs and holds the frame still, I never got that fancy to buy the like, but improvised what I have works.
MT
Lighting a Bunsen burner when the flints are all gone and no matches, heck we always had a large spool of 1 amp fuse wire. A cheater cord with face turned away with gas on, plug in wall socket and hear a pop. Fuse wire is vaporized and Bunsen burner is ready for glass blowing.
Today is my next opportunity to try to remove it(due to work). So I was thinking if the nut free spins, if i were to cut the nut off in segments(along the bolt not through it), then wouldn't I be able to just pull off the last part of the nut with some vice grips and not even have to cut the bolt? Then I could just remove the old bolt and replace with a fresh bolt and nut? I haven't had to cut nuts/bolts off many times so if I only get one shot to do it right I want to make sure it counts.
Which means it's an excellent time to replace the wheel with something other than a hub that uses a coaster brake. Then you can add a rear rim brake.
Note: my bike is not the same type of wheel your having problem with, just throwing this out here anyway in case parts maybe exist before you begin to work on the damaged axle.
I had threads messed up on an axle I use on my Briggs Bike. Note I only ride using CA OHV License Offroad. I have no pedals, just foot pegs from used Honda 125 parts I got on Ebay.
The rear wheel with a belt sheave, is actually a heavy gauge spoke front wheel connected through some gearing down.
As for the replacing the axle for $10 from a 3rd party on Amazon, see the link.
WheelMaster HUB AXLE WM RR/FT 3/8x165mmx26T SOLIDCRMO
Different 3rd party sellers on Amazon I bought the Wheel Master Axle that fit the Wheel Master Front Wheel I have been using.
Maybe my case is easy that it does not involve a coaster brake hub as you have.
Just if parts are necessary for repair of a coaster brake hub type rear axle, if something is messed up in removing the stripped parts you mention of, parts might exist to get at a reasonable price.
I have heard coaster brakes on motorbikes are not the best idea, I have the V-Brakes that use the rim.
Better yet if affordable to you, disk brakes or drum brakes seem to be nice to acquire. Understandably, cost might not be what you want to chose this for that reason.
Pictures if you can take and post, so I can get an idea what you might need, or others here that know that they have delt with the same problem.
MT