Problem with muffler bolts.....

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Rusty_Nail

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Oct 11, 2019
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I had to remove both the nuts on one side of where the muffler bolts to the engine. Being I've always used the double nut setup(better than those crap bolts that come with the kits) the first nut came off nice and easy but when I went to remove the second nut, the stud in the cylinder head started to back out too. When I originally put those studs in I used red Loctite so I'm not sure why it would start backing out just trying to remove other nut. So does this mean that when the engine warms up this stud could start loosening? Will putting it in with more red Loctite keep it from backing out again or is that a bad idea? I'll try to get a pic up tomorrow. Any help is appreciated.
 
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Greg58

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The stud coming out is not that big of a problem, I’ve removed the studs and used M6 Allen head bolts to mount the exhaust. If you can clamp the stud right below the nut you should be able to hold it so you can screw the remaining nut off.
 

wrench

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Aug 20, 2019
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The heat from the exhaust weakens the strength of the red loctite over time
Red Loctite will keep the stud from backing out on it's own

There are 6mm studs that have an allen head socket on the end that's used to put the stud in and also holds the stud from backing out when removing nuts
 

wrench

Well-Known Member
Aug 20, 2019
871
1,302
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So Cal
I had to remove both the nuts on one side of where the muffler bolts to the engine. Being I've always used the double nut setup(better than those crap bolts that come with the kits) the first nut came off nice and easy but when I went to remove the second nut, the stud in the cylinder head started to back out too. When I originally put those studs in I used red Loctite so I'm not sure why it would start backing out just trying to remove other nut. So does this mean that when the engine warms up this stud could start loosening? Will putting it in with more red Loctite keep it from backing out again or is that a bad idea? I'll try to get a pic up tomorrow. Any help is appreciated.
Use these type of studs so you can use an allen wrench to hold or screw in/out the stud
DSCF9503.JPG
DSCF9505.JPG
 

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Rusty_Nail

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Oct 11, 2019
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OK cool can you guys provide some links to where I can actually buy them? Also, one other question while I’m at it another problem I’ve been having is the chain ring on my pedal side is rubbing the frame when I try to turn the pedals. Any suggestions on how I can fix that problem? I’ll attach a picture.
80F931FF-1344-4CD7-92B8-F25CA46C5579.jpeg
 

wrench

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Aug 20, 2019
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OK cool can you guys provide some links to where I can actually buy them? Also, one other question while I’m at it another problem I’ve been having is the chain ring on my pedal side is rubbing the frame when I try to turn the pedals. Any suggestions on how I can fix that problem? I’ll attach a picture. View attachment 111935
Just search 6mm x (the length you need) allen stud or set screw
 

Mossy

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May 20, 2022
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OK cool can you guys provide some links to where I can actually buy them? Also, one other question while I’m at it another problem I’ve been having is the chain ring on my pedal side is rubbing the frame when I try to turn the pedals. Any suggestions on how I can fix that problem? I’ll attach a picture. View attachment 111935
Misumi is the company just Google misumi socket head cap screw with hole.. they have many size and length 8.8 which is grade 5 and in stainless steel... I'll probably do the 6m 1.0 intake and exhaust and 8m 1.25 mounting studs...
Fastenere has the socket head studs wrench posted in sae metric in many sizes and length ... The best thing to seal the flange is to flatten both surfaces with a file then it's flat on both surfaces then bolt it down with a Toyota Tacoma oxygen sensor gasket... That's the best shot at fixing that exaust ;)
 

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Mossy

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.kick2If that isn't good enough just post your credit card information and address and I or whoever runs the card out first can have it shipped to your house
 

Rusty_Nail

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Its all good. I found em. But before I order them I'm going to check with the ACE Hardware up the street to see if they have them. If not, I'll order them. Wish I knew about them sooner lol.
 
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Rusty_Nail

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Rusty check the bearings, it shouldn’t rub. Watch the chain ring for wobble, it could be bent.
Ok rusty I will. When I last had it apart I had to replace the bearings one of them blew up. I did however notice a small crack in the cup part the bearing rotates in. Could that be the cause? Because I only replaced the bearings the other parts looked fine.
 

Mossy

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A ballenced and trued crank is going to solve a lot of the hardware problems with these... The factory bearings may not be pressed in right also and cause problems... When I first got on the forums I thought you can just take it out of the box and discovered there's a lot more to it as you go down the rabbit hole...
 

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