1908 Schwinn Indian (schwinndian)

Brazing lugged joints is old school, proper and strong, the joints require lugs for strength. High silver content brazing rod requires a lot of heat and paste flux, but flows nicely into the joint and leaves a nice smooth connection done properly.

Rick C.
 
Been busy lately but I've got some motivation here, some 1908 dna. Couldn't pass these up. IMG_20200215_223355828.jpg IMG_20200215_223314482.jpg IMG_20200215_222743096.jpg
 
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I've been able to price some equipment recently and tubing benders especially are way out of my price range. I think building a nice solid table to mount some home built dies would work okay for my purposes. Notchers aren't too pricey and some welding machines aren't too expensive but I've always wanted a proper torch and honestly don't like looking through dark lenses and dealing with electricity, wiring the house, ect. My first weld was on a thin steel coupon using an old torch without any filler rod. The teacher wanted us to learn about the puddle and after that we used some filler rods. The simplicity and versatility of an oxy/acetylene torch is what has me drawn to it along with the nostalgia after reading about old sling shot dragsters being gas welded together in backyards and garages. I can't wait to get an assortment of tips and practice on some old scrap. I won't touch another stick welder to a bike frame, either not enough fusion or blowing holes is what I had. I believe I can fix my mistake by heating the top tube section near the seat post lug and slide it out before soldering in a new section of 1" tube that I have plenty of. I'll have to use some aircraft paint stripper or try some scuff pads and laquer thinner before I can do anything.
 
Ralph hop said:
I've been able to price some equipment recently and tubing benders especially are way out of my price range. I think building a nice solid table to mount some home built dies would work okay for my purposes. Notchers aren't too pricey and some welding machines aren't too expensive but I've always wanted a proper torch and honestly don't like looking through dark lenses and dealing with electricity, wiring the house, ect. My first weld was on a thin steel coupon using an old torch without any filler rod. The teacher wanted us to learn about the puddle and after that we used some filler rods. The simplicity and versatility of an oxy/acetylene torch is what has me drawn to it along with the nostalgia after reading about old sling shot dragsters being gas welded together in backyards and garages. I can't wait to get an assortment of tips and practice on some old scrap. I won't touch another stick welder to a bike frame, either not enough fusion or blowing holes is what I had. I believe I can fix my mistake by heating the top tube section near the seat post lug and slide it out before soldering in a new section of 1" tube that I have plenty of. I'll have to use some aircraft paint stripper or try some scuff pads and laquer thinner before I can do anything.
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LOL all the more reason to practices on scrap first, been there and done that.

This is the bender i bought, goes up to 1" round or square tube, i like it. Check around i got mine on sale. ...............Curt
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200350437_200350437
 
curtisfox said:
LOL all the more reason to practices on scrap first, been there and done that.

This is the bender i bought, goes up to 1" round or square tube, i like it. Check around i got mine on sale. ...............Curt
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200350437_200350437
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That's close to what I had in mind Curt. Very helpful! I don't usually look at northern tool as they have some marked up prices over most identical tools locally. That said, I do have their catalog in my bedside dresser drawer but I'd forgotten all about it. Still on the search.. will look through jegs and summit, been looking at the Eastwood line of welders.
 
Just a heads-up Ralph. If you have your heart set on a front drum brake, imo you can't get better than the Sturmey Archer X-FD which I've used on two of my previous builds. And right now I have a lead on these from a UK seller offering ten of them at less than half price. I just bought 2 x 90mm S/A front drum brakes from him myself. Installing one on the new stretch cruiser I just bought and the other will be stored for another project. If you want me to snag one for you I'll be happy to do so and mail it to you in the US. From experience I recall air-mailing anything weighing less than 2kg from the UK to the US will be under ten quid. Customs duty? Nah - I'll declare it as a model train component, which is classed as a toy and hence duty free in the US.
FSCN3403.JPG
 
You're a good man Pete! Thanks for the offer, but I'm not too sure about my wheel desisions just yet, with spoke count and sizes but you and anyone else please do feel free to private message me about fresh leads and I might be able to share some of my own findings. I'm standing on the shoulders of Giants here and I really do look up to you guys.
 
No sweat. For reference, the S/A drum hub has 36 spokes if you ever do decide to go with a compatible rim.
36 hole rim laced in a 3 cross pattern seems standard practice and most common.
 
Oh, you guys are talking about real gas welding. When I said you could do thinner stuff with gas I meant co2/ar for the wirefeed welder. Everything I do is flux core and it’s super easy to burn through anything thinner than .060”. That pipe was my first serious thin wall weld project. Took 8hrs. Ground it down and sanded on the inside with every step. Performance first. Ran exhaust wrap to keep it pretty. I buy the tool for the job and sometimes for the hobby as well tho not often. My welder is a super cheap harbor freight with some minor upgrades and runs great with gas. No comparison to a real welder but for a $250 setup it’s pretty good.
 
Tony01 said:
Oh, you guys are talking about real gas welding. When I said you could do thinner stuff with gas I meant co2/ar for the wirefeed welder. Everything I do is flux core and it’s super easy to burn through anything thinner than .060”. That pipe was my first serious thin wall weld project. Took 8hrs. Ground it down and sanded on the inside with every step. Performance first. Ran exhaust wrap to keep it pretty. I buy the tool for the job and sometimes for the hobby as well tho not often. My welder is a super cheap harbor freight with some minor upgrades and runs great with gas. No comparison to a real welder but for a $250 setup it’s pretty good.
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I'm well aware tony. I've done jobs as welders helper cutting bevels on pipe and handing rods with a shield but I just don't trust my own technique when it comes to home welding on tube. We have some big pot holes around here in the Ozarks region. Also, I want to pass inspection for licensing.
 
Ralph hop said:
I'm well aware tony. I've done jobs as welders helper cutting bevels on pipe and handing rods with a shield but I just don't trust my own technique when it comes to home welding on tube. We have some big pot holes around here in the Ozarks region. Also, I want to pass inspection for licensing.
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I tend to over build too.
 
Ralph hop said:
Beautiful ! Still raw metal Rick? I've only wiped mine clean with a damp rag so far. I know some guys use diesel fuel to preserve raw metal.
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Yes Ralph, thanks. I like raw metal with patina on my vintage builds. New stuff that looks 100 years old yet was well cared for. I also like paint but don't use it much.

Rick C.
 
PeteMcP said:
Just a heads-up Ralph. If you have your heart set on a front drum brake, imo you can't get better than the Sturmey Archer X-FD which I've used on two of my previous builds. And right now I have a lead on these from a UK seller offering ten of them at less than half price. I just bought 2 x 90mm S/A front drum brakes from him myself. Installing one on the new stretch cruiser I just bought and the other will be stored for another project. If you want me to snag one for you I'll be happy to do so and mail it to you in the US. From experience I recall air-mailing anything weighing less than 2kg from the UK to the US will be under ten quid. Customs duty? Nah - I'll declare it as a model train component, which is classed as a toy and hence duty free in the US.
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Pete that brake is going to really add to your beautiful stretch cruiser and the price was a no brainer.

Rick C.
 
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