Sunlite Deluxe Springer Fork XL Steerer tube help

[UtiliD]

Sunlite Deluxe Springer Fork XL Steerer tube help

I Recently got a ridiculous deal on
these forks with a 1" threaded steerer tube but didnt realize they had a 300mm / 12" steerer tube with tall springs and a tall top plate. These are intended for a standard Dyno Glide Cruiser with 5 1/4" head tube (thats not including the headset).

I can not find any information on what the minimum head tube size is for these forks. I saw that a Florida company in Ft. Meyers that specializes in OCC Choppers sells these same forks with shorter springs but spacers on top between them and the top plate. Obviously OCC choppers have head tubes much taller than my inteneed build.

I have several things I'd like advice on...

I have steerer tube sleeves for putting 1 1/8" spacers and stems on 1" steerer tubes. Im thinking about stacking a 50mm headset spacer then a 25mm 2 bolt seatpost clamp (both with 1 1/8th ID... the sleeves reduce the ID to 1" to match the steerer tube) on the bottom of the steerer tube.
The sleeve would sit 1/4" higher on the steerer tube than the seatpost clamp for the crown race to fit on to(I may have to grind the OD of the sleeve to fit the xrown race but no big deal)... Does anyone see any problems arrising from this?

2nd:
The only place I could find parts for forks even like these is a site with monarch in the name. They have a chrome top plate that does not extend up like mine does but I dont know if it would fit. The other thing is my top plate has a slit in it and at the top a hex head bolt pinches the top plate together and Im not sure why or if this is necessary. Would the monarch top plate fit and would it affect how the suspension functions?

3rd

I thought about installing a threadless headset then putting soacers on top then the top part of a threaded headset above the top plate? I dont like this idea because it seems to me like the least likely to accomplish what im doing.

4th

I could get shorter springs but think it would limit the amount of travel the suspension has.

Ok that is kind of part 1 I personally hope option 1 will work out but really want feedback from some experienced builders.

Now on to possible future modifications.. Ive seen forks like these with springs above and below the top plate. If I went with shorter springs on the bottom could I put some small ones on top of the bracket to provide some kind of rebound dampening?

I was going to upgrade the plastic spacers that these forks come with to bushings possibly skateboard bushings. Ive read that people upgrade these spacers and would like to know the best/ cheapest way to upgrade them.

Ive uploaded pictures but will upload more when I get time.

 

[MotoMagz]

So steering tube is way to long is that the deal here???

 

[Tony01]

So steering tube is way to long is that the deal here???

It looks like both the steerer and top plate are too tall.

@UtiliD it’s generally good to keep your topics short and sweet when asking for help with no more than two questions. We’re all a little bit confused. Except for the fact that you have a 6” installed height head tube and the forks are way too tall. So just keep it simple. “How do I make this work?”

If returning isn’t an option or and you have tools, I’d fab up a new top plate with no bends in it, cut the tube down and run a threadless headset since you will probably be cutting the threads off. If you don’t have the tools and/or don’t know how you’d go about doing this, then return or sell the fork and get one that fits.

Putting 6” of spacers between the top race and top plate will lead to a weak setup.

 

[indian22]

I've installed several Sunlite dual spring forks both long & short spring versions on both 1" and 1 1/8" tube, threaded and un-threaded styles both with and without adapters. I consider them the best of what's available. All required cutting the steer tube down to, for example 6.5", each bike somewhat different. If you want to use threads Tony's correct don't stack spacers high the tube should be cut, but a 1/2" or so of spacing is fine for adjustment, but less is better. The spacers are only used above the hard connection point, threaded or un-threaded style Make absolutely certain that you don't cut the tube too short. If you've never done this before leave extra length on the tube and assemble everything, if it's way too long cut the tube a bit more, if only a little long adjust with spacers. Don't get in a hurry or try to re-invent the fork...there's millions of these things being used on bikes world over and they work when installed correctly. If you are uncertain about exactly how the headset is locked onto the steerer tube and fork watch some You tube how too for both threaded and unthreaded style forks. What seems to make sense doesn't until you understand why.

Also check out 1" threadless adapter quill for mounting ahead stem & locking your fork in place as well, though using thread is my preferred install.

The tall springs are a bit harder to setup on some bikes and in my opinion don't quite look right compared to the short spring. Stick with 26" wheels on either.

The photos show the Sunlite long and short spring setup with my very minor changes for adjustment and the other shows a Harley style spring over spring that I think you have alluded to as a Sunlite fork conversion. It's not. Sunlite has manufactured these 4 spring forks, but they used different components than were used on the Sunlite dual spring (Monarch style) forks. The photo of the 4 spring fork shows the normal use of spacers above the threaded headset connection for adding bar height & gaining clearance above the fork.

Hope you get this figured out.

Rick C.

 

[UtiliD]

So steering tube is way to long is that the deal here???

Just cutting the steering tube would be simple. I was trying to get the rocker for the forks to line up correctly which is affected by; the size of the bikes head tube(plus headset), the size of the springs/bushings, and the configuration of the top plate(really how high it comes up the steerer tube).

I ended up putting a headset spacer and a dual bolt seatpost clamp on the bottom of the steerer tube. I purposly used a 1 1/8" headset spacer and seatpost clamp. I did this so I could put a steerer tube shim behind the spacer/clamp but make it 3/16" taller(3/16" of the shim was exposed above the seatpost clamp). I then grinded down that 3/16" of exposed shim until I had something to secure the crown race to. It worked out perfectly.

 

[UtiliD]

It looks like both the steerer and top plate are too tall.

@UtiliD it’s generally good to keep your topics short and sweet when asking for help with no more than two questions. We’re all a little bit confused. Except for the fact that you have a 6” installed height head tube and the forks are way too tall. So just keep it simple. “How do I make this work?”

If returning isn’t an option or and you have tools, I’d fab up a new top plate with no bends in it, cut the tube down and run a threadless headset since you will probably be cutting the threads off. If you don’t have the tools and/or don’t know how you’d go about doing this, then return or sell the fork and get one that fits.

Putting 6” of spacers between the top race and top plate will lead to a weak setup.

I appreciate the advise Im often tackling to many things at one time in my head. It has slowed me down more than once.

It ended up with 1 20mm headset spacer and a dual bolt seatpost clamp that I'd estimate is about 30mm both were black and I think blended right and It came out quite well. Ill upload pics when I can.


I'm sure I wont do it this build but, how would you suggest making a custom top plate. I have hole saws, drill press, I can make rounded cuts with a grinder that arent difficult to clean up(aside from hand tools, a grinder and dremel are what I have for cutting steel). The part Im thinking Id have a hard time with (considering my resources) is getting the bend in the plate. I studied every monarch / sunlite fork I could find and I'm thinking that bend / offset is crucial to the design of the fork.

Again I appreciate everyones advise.

 

[UtiliD]

I've installed several Sunlite dual spring forks both long & short spring versions on both 1" and 1 1/8" tube, threaded and un-threaded styles both with and without adapters. I consider them the best of what's available. All required cutting the steer tube down to, for example 6.5", each bike somewhat different. If you want to use threads Tony's correct don't stack spacers high the tube should be cut, but a 1/2" or so of spacing is fine for adjustment, but less is better. The spacers are only used above the hard connection point, threaded or un-threaded style Make absolutely certain that you don't cut the tube too short. If you've never done this before leave extra length on the tube and assemble everything, if it's way too long cut the tube a bit more, if only a little long adjust with spacers. Don't get in a hurry or try to re-invent the fork...there's millions of these things being used on bikes world over and they work when installed correctly. If you are uncertain about exactly how the headset is locked onto the steerer tube and fork watch some You tube how too for both threaded and unthreaded style forks. What seems to make sense doesn't until you understand why.

Also check out 1" threadless adapter quill for mounting ahead stem & locking your fork in place as well, though using thread is my preferred install.

The tall springs are a bit harder to setup on some bikes and in my opinion don't quite look right compared to the short spring. Stick with 26" wheels on either.

The photos show the Sunlite long and short spring setup with my very minor changes for adjustment and the other shows a Harley style spring over spring that I think you have alluded to as a Sunlite fork conversion. It's not. Sunlite has manufactured these 4 spring forks, but they used different components than were used on the Sunlite dual spring (Monarch style) forks. The photo of the 4 spring fork shows the normal use of spacers above the threaded headset connection for adding bar height & gaining clearance above the fork.

Hope you get this figured out.

Rick C.

View attachment 103154 View attachment 103155 View attachment 103156

Thanks alot for the info. I actually have it set up as a threaded mount then a couple headset specers then a threadless stem with a shim behind it (I think the shim protects the threads Ive assembled / disassembled it a few times to tweak the alignment and all is well). I will get some pics up eventually.

These forks are actually for my next project. I just wanted to get them on the bike and see how the felt/looked.

I do think about the forks often and my latest thought is that when I get to this project I am going to remove the front(springer) section from the fork and install it on a set of ridgid triple tree forks. I have a few thoughts on how to go about it but what are your thoughts?

My current project involves a Nirve Cruiser and a set of RST Downhill forks I got for a steal. I am addicted to the look of triple tree forks but refuse to not have front suspension.

 

[curtisfox]

One thing is don't not put any spacers on the bottom off steer tube, as will change the angle of the rockers, down below, changing the geometry..........Curt

 

[UtiliD]

One thing is don't not put any spacers on the bottom off steer tube, as will change the angle of the rockers, down below, changing the geometry..........Curt

There had to be spacers at the bottom of the steerer tube in order for the rockers to line up level. Without spacers the front part of the rocker(bolt that holds the rocker to the front section) would have been at 11 o clock from rear bolt which is definitely not how these were meant to be set up. This is an XL fork that was on sale on Amazon for $75 & there was just 1 for sale. But Im glad I got these specific forks because I have plans to revamp the entire fork.

So this is most likely all going to be moot because I found a set of rigid triple tree forks that I can use the front section of this springer with. The triple trees have the right shape yokes and dropouts that I need to make them work. I found smaller springs to replace the main(XL) springs and I found some small springs to go above the top plate for rebound dampening. Once I get around to this project Ill post pictures of everything.

 

[curtisfox]

Rockers are suppose to angle down so they have room to travel through the ark, as weight is applied along with bumps.
Glad you found some springs, and parts you need. Be waiting for the pictures........Curt