Transfer Port Modification- Pictures and results here.
- Thread starter Bikeguy Joe
- Start date
All I have done is carve the ports to a simple port timing. I have a 65cc dax that has the least compression of all. I have never checked the actual compression but it has the least amount of resistance to starting, (easy to push Through). I have a friend that informed me that he got for me a Drill, Mill, Lathe, I am stoked to the max. All for the sum of building him a bike. I have heard that it has a complete set of tooling to go with it. Look out Group I have been set loose. LOL. One of the first things I want to do is mill the head. The happy time engine I think is a better choice for a bike engine in that it is capable of more torque by far than the pocket bike engines, they are just a larger weed whacker engine, they have no crankshaft mass and depend on very high RPMs to make power. I will keep you posted as I start the next phase of the evolution of Happy Times. Have fun, Dave
I'm not sure if you've had machine tool experience but if you feel up to it turn a M14 X 1.25mm thread on a shouldered rod. Then use this mandrel to turn the face of the head.
Its quicker than milling and offers a better result (I turned mine at 1800 RPM so the finish was a good as possible for cast aluminum).
On another note, i wonder if there's enough meat on the stock head to machine a squish band!? Probably not though...
Enjoy the lathe! Ive had a great time with my machine tools (hard part is setting it all up and scraping that damn packing grease!)
Its quicker than milling and offers a better result (I turned mine at 1800 RPM so the finish was a good as possible for cast aluminum).
On another note, i wonder if there's enough meat on the stock head to machine a squish band!? Probably not though...
Enjoy the lathe! Ive had a great time with my machine tools (hard part is setting it all up and scraping that damn packing grease!)
"On another note, i wonder if there's enough meat on the stock head to machine a squish band!? Probably not though..."
Thats what I was worried about, hence my plan to carefully build up the material using a mig, then lathe it back to dimension.
Since I have no easy way to calculate the compression change, I will have to fine tune that after I machine the squish band. (using the old syringe method)
Thats what I was worried about, hence my plan to carefully build up the material using a mig, then lathe it back to dimension.
Since I have no easy way to calculate the compression change, I will have to fine tune that after I machine the squish band. (using the old syringe method)
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I can tell you that there is not enough meat to change the shape at all. I put a compression release in the head and when I drilled the hole there was almost nothing there, I used a tapered tap and 1/4 pipe to make the release. I took it off it worked good but made a mess of everything, blowing oil all over the place. The one on my Solex is all contained and vents through the exhaust. I think it would be fun to make a water cooled head, it would be easy and I think it would work as good as a larger finned head, without having to carve all those fins. The hard part would be to make or find a radiator. This machine I am getting is used but I think that is an advantage at least for me, makes it less expensive for me and he got all the tooling that I would have had to get. Have fun, Dave
PS: I can now do the transfer ports with precision.
PS: I can now do the transfer ports with precision.
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For a radiator you could consider one used for water cooling computers. Its about 120X120mm or larger ones are 120:240 and can have 2 or 1 120X120mm fan mounted to them! (or 2 or 4 fans if you put one on the back and one on the front)
Heres a example one... Thermaltakeusa » Liquid Cooling » Liquid Cooling Upgrades » TMG 2 : TMG 2 CL-W0181
and a example pump... Thermaltakeusa » Liquid Cooling » Liquid Cooling Upgrades » P500 Pump : P500 Pump CL-W0132
Also what do mean by you can do the ports with more precision? Machine them with the lathe/mill? if so how?
Heres a example one... Thermaltakeusa » Liquid Cooling » Liquid Cooling Upgrades » TMG 2 : TMG 2 CL-W0181
and a example pump... Thermaltakeusa » Liquid Cooling » Liquid Cooling Upgrades » P500 Pump : P500 Pump CL-W0132
Also what do mean by you can do the ports with more precision? Machine them with the lathe/mill? if so how?
those watercooling parts (pump, specifically) are not designed to handle the high temps that you'd be expecting in a watercooled engine You'd want to use a thermistor controlled fan set up to obtain + hold temp. I'd probably go with a heatercore from a car, and a pump designed to handle temps around the 90deg C mark. You MIGHT be able to get away with some kind of natural pumping using heat rises/cool drops principle.
Egor,
Great to have knowledge and tools. Keep us posted about your progress. I am interested in the improved Happy Time engine. My stock one, made last year I think, is great but I am afraid to stray too far from home. I really want a bike I can go hundreds of miles.
It will never be as fast as a big bike or as powerful, but I am used to doing without a motor and just need some help not a huge powerhouse. I am getting 28 mph with good economy and pretty good power from my HT. I have broken 2 in less tyhan a year so am not sure I can go far at all. I will extend my testing routes to 80-100 miles soon.
Great to have knowledge and tools. Keep us posted about your progress. I am interested in the improved Happy Time engine. My stock one, made last year I think, is great but I am afraid to stray too far from home. I really want a bike I can go hundreds of miles.
It will never be as fast as a big bike or as powerful, but I am used to doing without a motor and just need some help not a huge powerhouse. I am getting 28 mph with good economy and pretty good power from my HT. I have broken 2 in less tyhan a year so am not sure I can go far at all. I will extend my testing routes to 80-100 miles soon.
Hi Lenny, What Rear Sprocket Were You Running On The Engines That Broke?? You Have A Whizzer Also?? Later, Ron
44th on 50 slant heads. now I have a 44 on a 66 grubee,
At 250 lbs I may be too much weight for the little one?
At 250 lbs I may be too much weight for the little one?
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Oh and I got the Whizzer running good and traded it to datz510 for his rotten orange (quite a custom bike) and a little more. I like the smaller lighter bike and he said he needed a Whizzer. I had fun putting about 700 miles into it and felt the power of Quintons modifications. That was money well spent as he did such nice work. I wanted to change too many things about the Whizzer and decided to just trade with John.
Lenny, it is funny I look at some of these engine and to a cert-en degree I can tell if it is not going to be a good one. The angle head is one of them, sorry with the crummy fins and the heavy recessed screws. I have a few Dax engines except for one that pitched all the big end rollers all over the place they have been the best and smoothest running engines in my stable. I got in trouble today, my Wife tried to get into the garage, she thinks I have a sickness. OK I may have a few too many bikes, but they are my friends. She is trying to tell me that other families put things in the garage. (Things) I wonder what that is, if it gets hot when you use it then it is not going in the garage rite! Oh well I hope she gets over it. I think I got it bad. I have a set of plans that I want to see if I can make using this milling machine. If I can pull it off it is going to look good and sound cool. I am using the plans from the early days engine and adapting it to some modern parts, (IE) I will not have to make the hard parts. Have fun, Dave
I kept my bike secret from my wife from last july to january-- until when my grandson at the supper table said i saw you ride by the school today on a motorcycle--i said are you sure --he said it was you--the wife was mad for 2 days--now she thinks it is a good idea to save gas---i have one of creatives super chinas ordered i wonder what my grandson will say--maybe ill bribe him by letting him drive it LOL
Nothing like a helment with a smoke tinted face visor or a full face helment when ya want
to ride without being recognized. It helps to have a "secret" jacket too that nobody
has seen you wearing. Boys are naturally attracted to motorcycles, but let it be a
bicycle with a motor installed on it and they are absolutely mesmerized. If there is one
in your area, they'll know who rides it and likely where he lives.
I try to ride mine when school is in session or in the late evening of the day when the kids
are in. I've had a dozen of em peddling as fast as they could behind me trying to catch up to
to get answeres to all their questions. (and some glares from Mom's who think I'm a bad
influance for their boys. "Why don't you just ride your motorcycles" ? one asked. "Then at least
I could tell my boys that they'll have to wait till they're grown up to have one".) I think this
is a big part of the reason I was sold my present motor.
to ride without being recognized. It helps to have a "secret" jacket too that nobody
has seen you wearing. Boys are naturally attracted to motorcycles, but let it be a
bicycle with a motor installed on it and they are absolutely mesmerized. If there is one
in your area, they'll know who rides it and likely where he lives.
I try to ride mine when school is in session or in the late evening of the day when the kids
are in. I've had a dozen of em peddling as fast as they could behind me trying to catch up to
to get answeres to all their questions. (and some glares from Mom's who think I'm a bad
influance for their boys. "Why don't you just ride your motorcycles" ? one asked. "Then at least
I could tell my boys that they'll have to wait till they're grown up to have one".) I think this
is a big part of the reason I was sold my present motor.
I fired up the mill today, it works good and will be fun to see how many things I can make now. It is an all hand feed machine and I am still getting used to it. One thing I have never seen before, it has one more angle access under the tool rest, I tried it out on a piece of aluminum round, made to look like the top of a piston and it worked great the feed handle is small but it works OK.
Is it hard to get aluminum castings done? I could make the molds out of wood, I used the foundry in High school but that has been a long time. I have a way to make up the engine cases by building them up from flat stock and bolting it all together. I will need the mill to make up the bearing bosses and the base of the cylinder. I have a cylinder that I dropped out of the aluminum casting to a Honda motorcycle. So I use the crank, Piston, Barrel, and maybe the cam, or one from a B&S. I want to add an extra ring of steel to the crank to give it more mass, I like the idle sound of the antique engines.
Have fun, Dave
Is it hard to get aluminum castings done? I could make the molds out of wood, I used the foundry in High school but that has been a long time. I have a way to make up the engine cases by building them up from flat stock and bolting it all together. I will need the mill to make up the bearing bosses and the base of the cylinder. I have a cylinder that I dropped out of the aluminum casting to a Honda motorcycle. So I use the crank, Piston, Barrel, and maybe the cam, or one from a B&S. I want to add an extra ring of steel to the crank to give it more mass, I like the idle sound of the antique engines.
Have fun, Dave
Attachments
I tried my version of this mod. With great success.
I finally spent some money on my happy time a tuned pipe.
I Removed the lower gasket.
De carbon the piston and head.
Port and polish the intake and exhaust ports/
Port match the pipe and intake manifold.
Rejet and adjust the carb.
I would not use a saw blade on my liner.
I ground down the top of the piston to make the fuel air mixture ports stay open a little longer.
The pipe added about 30 percent more goodness.
The other stuff added about 10 percent more goodness.
I should have done these mods sooner.
I finally spent some money on my happy time a tuned pipe.
I Removed the lower gasket.
De carbon the piston and head.
Port and polish the intake and exhaust ports/
Port match the pipe and intake manifold.
Rejet and adjust the carb.
I would not use a saw blade on my liner.
I ground down the top of the piston to make the fuel air mixture ports stay open a little longer.
The pipe added about 30 percent more goodness.
The other stuff added about 10 percent more goodness.
I should have done these mods sooner.
Great feedback to hear about the combination of a bolt on mod like the tuned pipe, and some internal massaging. I'm looking forward to putting together a fairly refined build this week, but it's still going to be a stock 67cc motor for the most part. I'm planning on milling a bit off the head to increase compression, and I may try to do some internal sanding and polishing while I'm going over the whole thing, seems like it's not a bad idea. Hopefully can't hurt it with this attention.
Brains, Jim- can you guys please just briefly take us through what a careful mechanic without big tools can do to inspect and improve the assembly and function of a basically stock motor? I will also be using fresh quality hardware for my motor assembly from the SBP hardware kit. Spooky tooth recommends cleaning out inside the clutch cover to remove any shavings or other material from the manufacturing/assembly process. What else can we do to clean up and assure ourselves of a solid build?
PS- This thread ranks right up there with the best technical discussion threads I have read ANYWHERE. Sticky status, Mods??
Hey huckersteve,
It all depends what your trying to achieve, you go all out performance and they become hand grenades, so its a balancing act.
You changing the hardware is a great start, Jim is going to have some better quality clutch pucks available soon (sorry Jim for putting you under even more pressure now), get ya self a good quality lead & terminal, I highly suggest a MSD 8.5 lead with triple insulated terminal, you need a special tool for these terminals & since I live a bit far to do it for you, I suggest you visit a performance shop & I'm sure they will do one up for you, Change spark plug to NGK, increased compression by means of lowering the cc's of the head, actually the head design is a thread on its own again, I will have mine finished shortly and will post pics of it & Jim will probably have one soon as well, a good exhaust expansion chamber is a must with any two stroke for attaining noticeable results immediately if ya don't really want to do anything else, ensure crank case is sealed, you dont want pressure to be fluctuating here, very very important, not so much as porting but ensuring the transition points from manifolds to barrel are smooth, ie; not trying to create any unwanted turbulence at these transition points, try and create no sharp protrusions through the inlet runner especially if your using the steel inlet manifolds, look inside them & ya have weld dags, you don't want to polish the inlet runners as this will affect the fuel/air atomizing, but ya can polish the exhaust runner if you want, ensure all gaskets do not protrude into the flow of inlet, exhaust runners & crank case to barrel, porting the inner casings of the crankcase can be worked on, but this is a thread on its own as it will affect how you would go about changing everything else to be in sink with this mod, A good carbi, can't go by a Mikuni with low, mid & high fuel circuits, they are awesome in my books, and they should be well priced as they are made in the states, I pay heavily over here for them.
Anyway its 1.30am down under at the moment so gonna leave at this for now, I could keep going here for days on this one, and only rambled off some quick basic points to consider, would be more than happy to keep going on this, as soon as our engine dyno is set up I will post some dyno results on simple individual mods and what the results are by doing so, its easy to say port here, mill here, shave here, increase here, add this & that but its an ever ending learning curve with modifications & what real benefits you attain if any at all most times.
It all depends what your trying to achieve, you go all out performance and they become hand grenades, so its a balancing act.
You changing the hardware is a great start, Jim is going to have some better quality clutch pucks available soon (sorry Jim for putting you under even more pressure now), get ya self a good quality lead & terminal, I highly suggest a MSD 8.5 lead with triple insulated terminal, you need a special tool for these terminals & since I live a bit far to do it for you, I suggest you visit a performance shop & I'm sure they will do one up for you, Change spark plug to NGK, increased compression by means of lowering the cc's of the head, actually the head design is a thread on its own again, I will have mine finished shortly and will post pics of it & Jim will probably have one soon as well, a good exhaust expansion chamber is a must with any two stroke for attaining noticeable results immediately if ya don't really want to do anything else, ensure crank case is sealed, you dont want pressure to be fluctuating here, very very important, not so much as porting but ensuring the transition points from manifolds to barrel are smooth, ie; not trying to create any unwanted turbulence at these transition points, try and create no sharp protrusions through the inlet runner especially if your using the steel inlet manifolds, look inside them & ya have weld dags, you don't want to polish the inlet runners as this will affect the fuel/air atomizing, but ya can polish the exhaust runner if you want, ensure all gaskets do not protrude into the flow of inlet, exhaust runners & crank case to barrel, porting the inner casings of the crankcase can be worked on, but this is a thread on its own as it will affect how you would go about changing everything else to be in sink with this mod, A good carbi, can't go by a Mikuni with low, mid & high fuel circuits, they are awesome in my books, and they should be well priced as they are made in the states, I pay heavily over here for them.
Anyway its 1.30am down under at the moment so gonna leave at this for now, I could keep going here for days on this one, and only rambled off some quick basic points to consider, would be more than happy to keep going on this, as soon as our engine dyno is set up I will post some dyno results on simple individual mods and what the results are by doing so, its easy to say port here, mill here, shave here, increase here, add this & that but its an ever ending learning curve with modifications & what real benefits you attain if any at all most times.
Thanks Brains! Get some sleep buddy and come back here so I can pick your brain some more!
I'll say this- my goal is smoothness, and reliability, with a slight improvament in performance. Tuned pipe and high flow filter are already happening, as well as anything I can do regarding massaging gaskets for fit. Other than that, and the shifter kit, I'm sticking to a pretty stock build for now..
I'll look into the MSD ignition setup, I like the sound of that!
Thanks again.
I'll say this- my goal is smoothness, and reliability, with a slight improvament in performance. Tuned pipe and high flow filter are already happening, as well as anything I can do regarding massaging gaskets for fit. Other than that, and the shifter kit, I'm sticking to a pretty stock build for now..
I'll look into the MSD ignition setup, I like the sound of that!
Thanks again.