clutch not working

[gill vanderwerf]

got my new engine today put it on bike and clutch is slipping / not working at all. i followed the seller his advice and opened the cluch cover and took of that nut and sprig and it should have reset it self well no dice but take a look at those pics i send it looks like the clutch pats or what ever you call them are worn out. the seller swears its a new engine i have my doubts but i want to hear from you guys if a brand new clutch is supposed to look like this. i don't know because i never messed with things like this but it seems to me they are worn out pretty good.

 

[Jimmy Bloodmaker]

everything looks good to me, besides the strip mark on the crank gear cap. pads look new, gears look new, even the set screw on the clutch plate looks nice. you might need to tighten the preload on the clutch. i know i have had to on a few engines. not a bad thing, collar nut just needs spun a little tighter on the load spring. you can find instructions on how to mess with your clutch here. there are tons of them.

 

[Jimmy Bloodmaker]

oh and never remove parts, they all do something lol. you need tht spring under the clutch plate.

 

[gill vanderwerf]

we tried it all watched vids and looked at tips comments but its not working

 

[allen standley]

Well for one thing, I've never seen a new motor come through with a bevel gear screw looking like that.
got my new engine today put it on bike and clutch is slipping / not working at all.
Slipping? is there grease on them pads? Some of the time the clutch is stuck from sitting in inventory for months on end. a few light pops around it with the cover off will release it. Pull the cover on the left side where the clutch arm is. look at the drive sprocket in the center there should be a metal rod about 1 1/4 long (the bucking bar), behind that there should be a large ball bearing. be certain both of those pieces are there.
Also watch this one see if it helps.

 

[gill vanderwerf]

should that ball baring just come out because i did not see anything in there?

 

[allen standley]

Look in there with a flashlight. sometime is stuck in by grease. Also if completely missing it is the same size as a 1 piece pedal crank bearing.

 

[allen standley]

Where did you buy this motor?

 

[gill vanderwerf]

i got a kit from ebay first i had a 49 cc but that motor had a stripped cylinder stud so seller send me this 66 cc new engine as replacement

 

[gill vanderwerf]

came from bicycle motor works

 

[allen standley]

never heard of em. I have never purchased an ebay kit.

 

[allen standley]

I'll be leaving in a couple min. I hope you get it. I'll check on ya later.

 

[gill vanderwerf]

it sucks the seller has been pretty helpful , with everything but i am still without a working motor and that sucks big time, had some friends that are motorcycle riders help me with clutch but they are also baffled by it seems no one can figure out why that clutch is not working .

 

[allen standley]

Gil, I do not mean to insult you, you are aware of the fact these are NOT a featherable type clutch. Meaning - You cannot slowly release the clutch from a dead stop it will stall the motor. That is the simplicity of design.They are engaged or disengaged that is why you must pedal up to a reasonable speed then pop the clutch to start. Then after started and @ a stop sign you must pedal up to speed before re engaging the clutch.
I'm sure you will get this sorted just stick with it. Did you see the vid I linked for you? That should explain the workings? Some body else feel free to chime in??

 

[Jimmy Bloodmaker]

Well for one thing, I've never seen a new motor come through with a bevel gear screw looking like that.
got my new engine today put it on bike and clutch is slipping / not working at all.
Slipping? is there grease on them pads? Some of the time the clutch is stuck from sitting in inventory for months on end. a few light pops around it with the cover off will release it. Pull the cover on the left side where the clutch arm is. look at the drive sprocket in the center there should be a metal rod about 1 1/4 long (the bucking bar), behind that there should be a large ball bearing. be certain both of those pieces are there.
Also watch this one see if it helps.

not all have a ball. most of my kits have been coming with a longer buck bar instead of a ball. i just make sure i keep it greased well, and haven't had any problems with the longer buck bar over the bearing ball.

 

[Jimmy Bloodmaker]

Gil, I do not mean to insult you, you are aware of the fact these are NOT a featherable type clutch. Meaning - You cannot slowly release the clutch from a dead stop it will stall the motor. That is the simplicity of design.They are engaged or disengaged that is why you must pedal up to a reasonable speed then pop the clutch to start. Then after started and @ a stop sign you must pedal up to speed before re engaging the clutch.
I'm sure you will get this sorted just stick with it. Did you see the vid I linked for you? That should explain the workings? Some body else feel free to chime in??

your right on the clutch feather 100%. these are on or off clutches, slipping them just burns them up fast or glazes the pads and causes it to eternally slip till cleaned of the hardened pad. i've went through **** on some of these clutches. usually on the high hp kits though. seems these clutches can't handle much more power over 3 hp or so, unless you baby them. i've done some mods to get a little more out of the plate, but even then 5hp will slip these clutches easy unless you have some momentum.

 

[Jimmy Bloodmaker]

it sucks the seller has been pretty helpful , with everything but i am still without a working motor and that sucks big time, had some friends that are motorcycle riders help me with clutch but they are also baffled by it seems no one can figure out why that clutch is not working .

the clutch play in these is only a few millimeters. you have to pedal up to speed, or get a jackshaft and have a super low first gear, which i have. then you can take off like a motorcycle. my first two gears are really low on one of my bikes, i can ride it like a motorcycle, but prefer to pedal a slight bit to help it out. it's not a very fast bike, will hold 35mph, 24-25 up long hills, tops out at about 40mph. if it was more powerful, it could go faster, but 6th gear is pretty much a super over drive economy gear on tht bike. it won't pull it, but will keep it steady. you need a jackshaft, but tht comes with a whole new set of problems to figure out. watch tht video allen linked you, then adjust your clutch proper. i've always found going one more, or one less notch on the flower nut , than what seems perfect to me. it should have just a little bit of drag on the clutch when you have it in the locked position, and no drag when you have the handle all the way pulled in and holding it.

 

[gill vanderwerf]

i know how to use a clutch used to have a mopet when i was young and i do peddle to get up to speed before i release the clutch

 

[allen standley]

Only thing left I can think to check would be the spinning parts for sheared keys. There are 4 of em. Big cover Right side-Bevel gear and clutch plate, Left side- Drive sprocket and Magneto.

 

[Greg58]

I’ve been watching this and wondered if you have tried this, with the clutch cover removed operate the clutch handle and see how much the plate moves out from the pads, if it’s a lot the flower nut needs more tension. I squeeze the clutch handle and spin the flower nut in maybe 1/2 round at a time till the clutch stops slipping. You can also move the clutch arm by hand to see if you have enough tension on the cable, sometimes if you don’t have enough you can’t get the clutch right.